Members parcx01 Posted September 7, 2017 Members Report Posted September 7, 2017 Whats your favorite glue for leather to leather? Is Barge still considered the best? Is the "New Toluene-Free Formula" as good as the original? Is Weldwood as good as Barge? Hows the "non drip formula"? Are there any effective non toxic or low odor adhesives? My main purpose for this glue is to use it before stitching. What do you recommend??? Please share your experience. Thank You! Quote Quote
Members TacticallySharp Posted September 7, 2017 Members Report Posted September 7, 2017 I found the original yellow/red to work better than any other one I tryed. Got their tinner too. I add some to my glue about every 2-3 months. Quote George Tactically Sharp, Inc. Hialeah, Florida tacticallysharp.com "time only is forever"
garypl Posted September 7, 2017 Report Posted September 7, 2017 I use Weldwood in the red can - seems to work ok to hold things together before sewing Quote Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4
Members Dwight Posted September 7, 2017 Members Report Posted September 7, 2017 (edited) I've used a bunch of stuff, . . . Weldwood puts two pieces of leather together so that it becomes one piece. You CAN take it back apart, . . . but you will rip fibers from both pieces, . . . inherently "ripping" the piece apart. Have never had any issue with it except that if I'm doing a number of pieces, . . . there needs to be some consideration fro ventilation, . . . what I mostly do is just get it on the pieces, . . . and leave the shop, . . . go do something else somewhere else that I've been putting off. It is also more economical than Barge in my area. May God bless, Dwight Edited September 7, 2017 by Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members Instinctive Posted September 7, 2017 Members Report Posted September 7, 2017 I use Lepage Pres-Tite Green Contact Cement. Water based contact cement with no odor. No ventilation needed. Water clean up. Never had anything come apart unless I ripped it apart. Quote Eric Fisher Fisher Custom Leather "A Retirement Project" https://fishercustomleather.wordpress.com/
Members Double Daddy Posted September 7, 2017 Members Report Posted September 7, 2017 2 hours ago, Dwight said: I've used a bunch of stuff, . . . Weldwood puts two pieces of leather together so that it becomes one piece. You CAN take it back apart, . . . but you will rip fibers from both pieces, . . . inherently "ripping" the piece apart. Have never had any issue with it except that if I'm doing a number of pieces, . . . there needs to be some consideration fro ventilation, . . . what I mostly do is just get it on the pieces, . . . and leave the shop, . . . go do something else somewhere else that I've been putting off. It is also more economical than Barge in my area. May God bless, Dwight I'm on the same bandwagon as Dwight...good ol' Weldwood Original in the red can...the potent stuff. I come from a construction background (kitchen cabinets, countertops, etc.)...I've used a bunch of the stuff over the years...I'm very comfortable with it so I've never tried anything else, even when it comes to leatherworking. It can be unforgiving if you don't get the pieces where you want them the FIRST TIME after the adhesive sets up. Be sure to use it in a well-ventilated area, as Dwight pointed out...unless you're one of those individuals who thinks they have brain cells to spare (I'm not so I don't). Good luck! Quote Have a great day! Chris
Members bgl500 Posted September 7, 2017 Members Report Posted September 7, 2017 I have used both Masters and Weldwood with great success. With most cements it's the preparation work and setup that makes the difference. With that being said, I'm very interested in trying the Seiwa water-based glue that's available from Rocky Mountain Leather. Supposedly very strong and dries clear which is a big plus. Quote
Members plinkercases Posted September 7, 2017 Members Report Posted September 7, 2017 Ditto Lepage Pres-Tite Green Contact Cement... but having read above I would like to also go to the other extremes and try some Weldwood... already got rid of a lot of brain cells so more room fro fumes in there... Quote "Oh my God....I beseech thee grant me the grace to remain in Thy Presence; and to this end do Thou prosper me with Thy assistance, receive all my works, and possess all my affections" Brother Lawrence c.1614-1691 plinkercases.ca
Members k10 Posted September 7, 2017 Members Report Posted September 7, 2017 For flexible I like renia ortec and use it in shoe/boot contruction as only thing I find sticks vibram without failing over distance/time but I use on leather to leather bonding too from watchstraps to wallet linings. Leather to leather is overkill I suppose and more expensive than PU contacts like barge but I use it because it is what I have the most and I like it because it is stronger and doesn't foam like some modified neoprenes do. For less flexible stuff I like GFlex and for stiff gluejoints any polyamine/amine epoxy over 3.5 ton psi because it is strong and bonds leather to almost anything if done properly. Quote
Members Mokerson Posted October 2, 2017 Members Report Posted October 2, 2017 On 9/7/2017 at 3:24 PM, bgl500 said: I have used both Masters and Weldwood with great success. With most cements it's the preparation work and setup that makes the difference. With that being said, I'm very interested in trying the Seiwa water-based glue that's available from Rocky Mountain Leather. Supposedly very strong and dries clear which is a big plus. I'm also wondering if anyone has any feedback on this Seiwa glue? I saw it last time I was on RMLeather and would be interested, looking for a nice adhesive that dries clear and wont make me leave the room due to fumes. Quote
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