How to make a press for moulding leather pouches and such

[Dwight]

1 hour ago, Stetson912 said:

That's my understanding, with the hydraulic presses it's usually some sort of foam rubber padding that the piece is sandwiched between. I can't comment to the exact material though. 

I built a hydraulic press a number of years ago, . . . used gum rubber, . . . 40 durometer, . . . 2 layers above, . . . 2 below, . . . all were 2 inches thick.

I scrapped it in favor of vacuum press for holsters when I started getting a bunch of "plastic fantastic" handguns, . . . just afraid that the extra pull on the handle might wind up helping me own a cracked handgun.

I'd never go back after using the vacuum, . . . wish I had gone to it before hand, . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

[Stetson912]

To that's what I was trying to think of. Thanks @Dwight as usual. I want a small vacuum press just can't afford it haha.

[WoodysWorkshop]

7 hours ago, Itch said:

Here is a bearing press we use for holsters  https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html

I will 2nd the bearing press.

If you have mig welder, or a buddy that does...possibilities are nearly endless and economical.

If you look into a good wood working vise which would fin the range of your first picture, you will find out they are more than the HF bearing press.

And that is just the frame and threads...and you build to suite you.

And not as strong as a bearing press.

If you invest in some clamps, you can clamp the 1/2's together once pressed.

The molds I've made so far I did with my dremel and used Bessy Mite-y-Mini 6" clamps I kept from my wood shop to clamp them together and hold over night.

[JD62]

Hi Brian,  I like your first idea for a first run. If you make the top that the screw attaches to good and heavy you can make the side posts as long as you need. You then add platens about 2" thick on top of the first layer of molds, add a second layer and so on. The foot print stays the same but you just keep going up and the pressure stays about the same for all layers. I would think that after a half hour you could pull them out and they would hold shape until you lock the molds.

[Dwight]

My hydraulic press cost me a total of about $50 if I recall correctly for the rubber, . . . $15 for a 6 ton bottle jack, . . . and some 2 x 4's, . . . plus some bolt.

The steel press frame is totally overkill for what is needed, . . . BUT, . . . you don't have to build it, . . . 

 

I bought a $99 vacuum pump at Harbor freight, . . . $20 worth the vinyl at JoAnn's fabric, . . . and a couple pieces of scrap tubing, . . . 

Made a perfectly functional vacuum system for under $150.

The tool is more than anything not an end in itself, . . . just something to make it easier to get to that end.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Wedgetail]

Sending you a PM Brian.

[LumpenDoodle2]

Dwights hydraulic press is certainly the quickest and simplest to put together.   The press area can be adusted to suit, without much additional work, and the floor space is also minimum.    I use the hubby's 10t bearing press, for some projects,  and when not in use, it takes up about 2 1/2' by 1' floor space, but I can extend the press area to 2' by 2', which suits my needs.

[RockyAussie]

Here are some pictures of the pla moulds I intend to try in the press. At this stage in the drawing I have not included any clips for keeping them attached together. I think before I go that far I will need to test the strength of the pla print in the application first. I have done a jpeg to show for all but if you want a more detailed look in the pdf file you can click the picture to activate it and then you can get the mould to spin around to whatever view you wish by just holding+ moving your mouse button.

1 hour ago, LumpenDoodle2 said:

Dwights hydraulic press is certainly the quickest and simplest to put together.   The press area can be adusted to suit, without much additional work, and the floor space is also minimum.    I use the hubby's 10t bearing press, for some projects,  and when not in use, it takes up about 2 1/2' by 1' floor space, but I can extend the press area to 2' by 2', which suits my needs.

I have seen Dwights press previously when doing my homework on this and there is a lot of good ideas in the construction of it. I think so far what I am likely to do will be quicker and cheaper and have the advantage of being able to down and up with minimal effort and time. I will have some draft drawings and pictures as I go soon.

My goal on the press is to cost under $100 au and 2 hours to construct. It will have the leeway to allow for various pressure methods and stronger if needed. Did not say it will be pretty.

9 hours ago, JD62 said:

Hi Brian,  I like your first idea for a first run. If you make the top that the screw attaches to good and heavy you can make the side posts as long as you need. You then add platens about 2" thick on top of the first layer of molds, add a second layer and so on. The foot print stays the same but you just keep going up and the pressure stays about the same for all layers. I would think that after a half hour you could pull them out and they would hold shape until you lock the molds.

Thanks for thoughts JD62, I hadn't though about stacking them on top of each other as the moulds I hope will be a quick in and out process. Good idea though I think.

Thank you everyone for your inputs so far. Regards Brian

HANDCUFF POUCH 3Da.pdf

[LumpenDoodle2]

Meant to add, the hubby's press has a heavy spring, which when you relase the jack, pulls the plate back up.

[RockyAussie]

8 minutes ago, LumpenDoodle2 said:

Meant to add, the hubby's press has a heavy spring, which when you relase the jack, pulls the plate back up.

Noted. I still would not mind getting one except I'd have to keep it out in another shed and the hydraulic action I think would be a bit slower than I want.. The cost here is about $300+ and probably need to be ordered in. Thanks again.