Bag terminology help?

[RockyAussie]

OK, this is the best I can do for you this weekend. I have a few more of these bags to cut out yet than I thought.I will try and post some pics of one or two and their various steps as I go on them. For any people interested to see them being made I will post them in a separate "How Do I Do That" post sometime soon. Follow me if you want to be notified.

For now I have just grabbed a few pieces to show you the gusset building breakdown in some pictures. This first picture shows what the leather parts of the gussets look like cut out.

This second picture here  shows all of the components that go into making this gusset.At the top, there is a .3mm cardboard strip that is necessary to use with with many of the exotic leathers due to their stretchy nature. The third piece down shows what that cardboard looks like when positioned over the outer gusset strip. The next one down shows a piece with the croc's edge folded over. To the left is the lining leather that has the top folded over a piece of paper stiffener. Next is a .6mm strawboard stiffener with scribe lies to help with later shaping. Next to this is the same from the other side with some foam padding attached. The last one is croc for the middle part.

Here for the moment I have pulled an old one apart to show what it looks stitched together and  with the foam and stiffener attached in place.

This following pic shows what the lining looks like when it is stuck into place before further assembly.

That"s about it for now ....Hope that it makes some sense. Many firmer leathers would not need this level of construction but as I mostly do croc ....that's all I got.

LET me know if anyone wants to see the whole bag being made in steps as it is quite time consuming.

 

 

[Wedgetail]

Genius...

[Dun]

7 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

That"s about it for now ....Hope that it makes some sense. Many firmer leathers would not need this level of construction but as I mostly do croc ....that's all I got.

LET me know if anyone wants to see the whole bag being made in steps as it is quite time consuming.

 

 

Damn the stretchy leather really gets complex. And the perfection of your pattern for all those folded edges lining up is very impressive! 

I'd love to see the whole process but not at the expense of your deadlines or patience 

[JeannieH]

On 2/17/2018 at 5:03 AM, RockyAussie said:

OK, this is the best I can do for you this weekend. I have a few more of these bags to cut out yet than I thought.I will try and post some pics of one or two and their various steps as I go on them. For any people interested to see them being made I will post them in a separate "How Do I Do That" post sometime soon. Follow me if you want to be notified.

For now I have just grabbed a few pieces to show you the gusset building breakdown in some pictures. This first picture shows what the leather parts of the gussets look like cut out.

This second picture here  shows all of the components that go into making this gusset.At the top, there is a .3mm cardboard strip that is necessary to use with with many of the exotic leathers due to their stretchy nature. The third piece down shows what that cardboard looks like when positioned over the outer gusset strip. The next one down shows a piece with the croc's edge folded over. To the left is the lining leather that has the top folded over a piece of paper stiffener. Next is a .6mm strawboard stiffener with scribe lies to help with later shaping. Next to this is the same from the other side with some foam padding attached. The last one is croc for the middle part.

Here for the moment I have pulled an old one apart to show what it looks stitched together and  with the foam and stiffener attached in place.

This following pic shows what the lining looks like when it is stuck into place before further assembly.

That"s about it for now ....Hope that it makes some sense. Many firmer leathers would not need this level of construction but as I mostly do croc ....that's all I got.

LET me know if anyone wants to see the whole bag being made in steps as it is quite time consuming.

 

 

I would love to see it done step by step when you get a chance! Are you familiar with dooney and Bourke bags?they have a twisted strap they do that I love. If you can, google dooney and Bourke Sloan hobo. Is this strap two pieces glued together than edge painted? I see that they use the same strap leather for the trim and tassel. Just a thinner version. I have no idea what ounce leather I need for this strap!

[RockyAussie]

1 hour ago, JeannieH said:

Is this strap two pieces glued together than edge painted? I see that they use the same strap leather for the trim and tassel. Just a thinner version. I have no idea what ounce leather I need for this strap!

I looked them up and from what I think is that yes the strap is 2 pieces joined and edged. The weight should be around 4oz which would be a bit over 1/8" when combined.

[JMixx]

I have a lot more experience knitting, felting, or sewing handbags, so I don't know if this strategy would transfer to leather bags.  When trying to "firm up" the bottom so it won't "droop" or collapse, I have used plastic canvas available at pretty much any craft store.  It's made to stitch through with yarn and yarn needles (which are indistinguishable from some leather stitching needles), and I have stitched over it with a coordinating color of inexpensive acrylic yarn so it can be placed in the bottom of the bag without extra lining or covering.  For my sturdiest bags, which are felted wool (the fabric is about 3/4" thick after felting), I have doubled the plastic canvas for extra structure.  And it is inexpensive.

[bermudahwin]

On 15/02/2018 at 10:19 AM, RockyAussie said:

Hi Dun, I have no idea what name you would call this style of gusset. I think I normally refer to them as bar..s ..turds or something like that. I have quite a few of these bags on order, as always so I will take a few pictures this weekend which may help you some. I normally only make these up once a year or so.

I hope I have found the similar technique, in W C Double's 1960 bookThe Design and Construction of Handbags.

It seems to refer to the type as a "Two pieced gusset finished with a Faced edge or a French Seam" but its hard to accurately correlate as my photocopy is old and the line drawings are none too clear.  In the drawing the additional piece is called a collar.

Neat work RockyAussie, looks cool.

Harry

 

Edited February 19, 2018 by hwinbermuda

[RockyAussie]

13 hours ago, JMixx said:

I have a lot more experience knitting, felting, or sewing handbags, so I don't know if this strategy would transfer to leather bags.  When trying to "firm up" the bottom so it won't "droop" or collapse, I have used plastic canvas available at pretty much any craft store.  It's made to stitch through with yarn and yarn needles (which are indistinguishable from some leather stitching needles), and I have stitched over it with a coordinating color of inexpensive acrylic yarn so it can be placed in the bottom of the bag without extra lining or covering.  For my sturdiest bags, which are felted wool (the fabric is about 3/4" thick after felting), I have doubled the plastic canvas for extra structure.  And it is inexpensive.

That plastic canvas sound interesting. Could you post a picture of it? What do they call it? Thanks for posting . Brian

[RockyAussie]

5 hours ago, hwinbermuda said:

I hope I have found the similar technique, in W C Double's 1960 bookThe Design and Construction of Handbags.

It seems to refer to the type as a "Two pieced gusset finished with a Faced edge or a French Seam" but its hard to accurately correlate as my photocopy is old and the line drawings are none too clear.  In the drawing the additional piece is called a collar.

Neat work RockyAussie, looks cool.

Harry

 

That looks to capture the idea well. Internally without a cover may look a bit rough for some jobs but as drawn here it would be easy to work out the collar length needed etc. I am totally self taught and I should get around to getting some books like that as the terminology at least could be of help at times. Thanks for the compliment. Brian

[Wedgetail]

42 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

That looks to capture the idea well. Internally without a cover may look a bit rough for some jobs but as drawn here it would be easy to work out the collar length needed etc. I am totally self taught and I should get around to getting some books like that as the terminology at least could be of help at times. Thanks for the compliment. Brian

Yeah the difference beteen this and yours appears only to be layers of stiffener and a lining.

FYI guys, Craftsman gus youtube channel also just released a video which used a similar approach.

I'm like you @RockyAussie, self taught... except I had the benefit of youtube to get me started.

Edited February 19, 2018 by Wedgetail