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Someone posted in a earlier post to use as close to distilled water to avoid water marks or at least reduce them from chemicals in tap water

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

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Rossr, I had to treat the leather with neatsfoot oil. That darkened it SO much that when I tried to dye the design I'd tooled, the dye barely showed up. :(

This was when I tried the casing method of wetting the leather in the sink, then wrapping it in plastic and putting it in the fridge until i was ready to work on it.

Have since gone back to casing by dampening with a sponge.

Posted
2 hours ago, chrisash said:

Someone posted in a earlier post to use as close to distilled water to avoid water marks or at least reduce them from chemicals in tap water

This is a very good point.  I dont think of this much as I live in the country and have well water.   but city water or any treated water may make a large difference I would imagine

 

R

Posted
1 hour ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Rossr, I had to treat the leather with neatsfoot oil. That darkened it SO much that when I tried to dye the design I'd tooled, the dye barely showed up. :(

This was when I tried the casing method of wetting the leather in the sink, then wrapping it in plastic and putting it in the fridge until i was ready to work on it.

Have since gone back to casing by dampening with a sponge.

I dont use neats foot much for I found the same thing.  I was always under the impression it was dye first then do the finish like neats foot oil or whatever.....I used pecards leather dressing a lot and have been happy with it. Doesnt seem to darken the leather too much and seems to keep it supple.   I can see where doing the oil first would be hard to dye after for sure

 

Ross

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Thank you for supporting those going back to Gilwell.

 

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Of course, I don't NORMALLY use neatsfoot oil, but the leather was SO hard and dry by the time I finished my tooling, I was afraid it was going to crack. :( The same thing happened to another project I used this casing method on. That one is still sitting around, as I'm not sure what to do with it after the bad experience I had with the project mentioned above!

 

Posted
1 minute ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Of course, I don't NORMALLY use neatsfoot oil, but the leather was SO hard and dry by the time I finished my tooling, I was afraid it was going to crack. :( The same thing happened to another project I used this casing method on. That one is still sitting around, as I'm not sure what to do with it after the bad experience I had with the project mentioned above!

 

What kind of leather ...or what tannery was it from?   or was it older?

Just curious

 

Ross

Posted
3 minutes ago, Scoutmom103 said:

Thank you for supporting those going back to Gilwell.

 

My pleasure scoutmom and you are welcome!   We are very involved in scouting  at my house and both my boys are in it.  I did my woodbadge in 2015 and currently I am on staff for this years course.

 

Back to Gilwell Happy land, Im going to work my ticket if I can....

 

Ross

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Rossr, it was a veg-tan shoulder I bought from Tandy. No idea what tannery. It was pretty decent leather, and cut and tooled nicely. I just think the immersion method of casing drew some of the natural oils out of the hide, and made it hard as a board when it dried.

Edited by Sheilajeanne
Posted
1 minute ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Rossr, it was a veg-tan shoulder I bought from Tandy. No idea what tannery. It was pretty decent leather, and cut and tooled nicely.

Nothing against tandy, but over the years some of the leather i got has been good some not so good.   At this point  I almost always get from Wickett and craig and seem to get more consistency....I wonder if that was the case here and just had a batch of leather that was iffy?

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