Newbie with questions

[dikman]

I use one of my sewing machines for pre-punching the holes in my holsters. No thread, a 140 needle and I handwheel it, makes it easy to keep the holes straight!

[JLSleather]

That would work also.  I was suggesting the table top drill press since that will punch the holes if you want, BUT WILL ALSO allow him to insert a burnisher to do the edges without getting another tool.

 

[Mechanic]

1 hour ago, JLSleather said:

That would work also.  I was suggesting the table top drill press since that will punch the holes if you want, BUT WILL ALSO allow him to insert a burnisher to do the edges without getting another tool.

 

Lowe's has a pack of different sized drum sanders for cheap.

They work well in one of those tabletop drill presses.

After changing tools, another drill press just makes sense.

A belt sander is nice on straight edges.

 

[dikman]

11 hours ago, JLSleather said:

That would work also.  I was suggesting the table top drill press since that will punch the holes if you want, BUT WILL ALSO allow him to insert a burnisher to do the edges without getting another tool.

 

True, my idea only works if you've already got a suitable machine, it would be false economy to buy a sewing machine just for pre-punching holes. If you have to buy something then a drill press makes more sense.

[Tigdim]

Well, I am a little over 3/4 of way through making my stitching horse. I just need assemble the clamp/mount it on the horse. I took some liberties with the Stohlman design, but it should work. 

I have been rolling over in my mind what I can use instead of the drill press for punching holes. I thought of a few different ways that it could be done- building a simple lever arm (similar to a reloading press) would be the easiest. But then I got to thinking about the sewing machine idea... that is when this came to me.

Build a simple U shaped frame (made from scrap steel I already have) laid on its side, a piece of plywood mounted on the bottom of the frame with a hole in the center for the awl blade to extend into,  make a holder for the awl blade on a slide (directly above the hole), mount air cylinder to work the slide and a foot control valve.  Line up the awl blade appropriately in the stitch groove, press foot petal, BAM... awl plunges through the leather- release pedal awl retracts. Re-align move to next stitch mark, press foot pedal -BAM. Sounds easy right?   

Then I can leave the drill press set up with a sanding spindle or the Burnisher (I don't have yet... )

I am going to shut up until I finish my stitching horse, and actually make something with leather. I have too many ideas running around in my head! 

Aaron

Edited March 20, 2018 by Tigdim
Clarification, originally used petal not pedal.

[Mattsbagger]

Stitching chisels would be way faster than your idea for punching holes. Then the spacing is always consistent.

[Josh Ashman]

You could do all that, and it'll probably work nicely. Or, you could use the awl by hand and spend the time and effort you would have used to build your hole stabbing machine to practice stabbing holes by hand.

Good luck whichever way you go! 

[fredk]

3 hours ago, Tigdim said:

I have been rolling over in my mind what I can use instead of the drill press for punching holes. I thought of a few different ways that it could be done- building a simple lever arm (similar to a reloading press) would be the easiest. But then I got to thinking about the sewing machine idea... that is when this came to me.

Build a simple U shaped frame (made from scrap steel I already have) laid on its side, a piece of plywood mounted on the bottom of the frame with a hole in the center for the awl blade to extend into,  make a holder for the awl blade on a slide (directly above the hole), mount air cylinder to work the slide and a foot control valve.  Line up the awl blade appropriately in the stitch groove, press foot petal, BAM... awl plunges through the leather- release pedal awl retracts. Re-align move to next stitch mark, press foot pedal -BAM. Sounds easy right?  

or, buy a cheap non-working/non-motorised sewing machine. I picked up a non-motorised Singer clone sewing machine in a thrift store [called a charity shop here] for £5 [about $7] It does from 6 spi upwards. With no motor to strain it'll punch thru quite thick leather, and of course all holes are equally spaced. It'll feed the leather as fast as I want to turn the handwheel

No-one wants these old heavy simple sewing machines here. The charity shop was glad to see that one go. I picked up a rough Singer 15 class for £1 at a carboot sale. That one is motorised but it needs serviced

PS: I've only tested my sewing machine out; its not been used in anger yet as I'm remodeling my workshop place

PPS: I see dikman has mentioned this too

[Tigdim]

On 3/14/2018 at 9:18 PM, JLSleather said:

Finally, I try to END UP WITH about 8 oz total thickness MOST of the time.  Larger firearms get heavier leather, pocket models are often 6/7.  I don't use "suede" as most people think of it, meaning chrome tanned.  Biggest reason for that is it doesn't form.

As a rule, two layers of 4 oz is fine. 

Or when I tool it, I likely use 5/6 lined with 2/3 (the revolver pictured left was 6/7 cow lined with 2/3 goat, if I remember right).

The Glock 19 on the right was 4/5 lined with 3/4.

 

 

 

JLS, 

SO if I was looking to order a single side from a supplier... and they agreed to cut the side and split each piece separately... Bend - 7/8 oz for double layer belts, shoulder - 5/6oz for for holsters and belly - 2/3oz for holster lining.   I could cover the all of the thicknesses I need with a single side. 

Or is belly a poor choice even for the lining?

Aaron

 

[JLSleather]

Not much strength in belly leather - I don't use it.  What is considered "acceptable" varies with the user

[OLDNSLOW]

Weaver leather sells a product that will take belly leather and stiffen it up sort of like Viagra for the leather, I have not bought any just saw it on the website and catalog.  Weaver does also mention in one of the videos they put out that belly is good for a lot of different hand made items.

[JLSleather]

 

Edited March 21, 2018 by JLSleather

[dikman]

Where I buy my leather they naturally also have belly. As it is cheaper I asked the chap about using it and he said while it might be ok for odds and ends he wouldn't recommend it for anything "important". It's thickness can vary and it can stretch in unwanted directions. I guess it could be ok for lining something where it can't be seen much?

[Tigdim]

As promised earlier,  here are the pictures of the stitching horse I built. I have a total of $6.55 into it. Just used stuff I had laying around other than the hinge, u-bolt, washers and extra nuts. 

Only things I have left are to cut the u-bolt bolts shorter/flush with the exterior nuts, and glue the leather strips I cut onto the jaws.  

Aaron

[RockyAussie]

3 hours ago, Tigdim said:

As promised earlier,  here are the pictures of the stitching horse I built. I have a total of $6.55 into it. Just used stuff I had laying around other than the hinge, u-bolt, washers and extra nuts. 

Only things I have left are to cut the u-bolt bolts shorter/flush with the exterior nuts, and glue the leather strips I cut onto the jaws.  

Aaron

Looks good. Another strap to the other side and a couple stirrups and she should be ready to ride.