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Posted
2 hours ago, Caesar said:

I would think that using tape instead of contact cement is your main problem.  Why not use glue?  Or am I missing something?

You may have missed that this is production work and I find using tape saves me lots of assembly time and eliminates drips and ruined pieces. The parts have quite a bit of work already invest in decoration prior to belong assembled. I only use glue for touch ups. I was thinking of making a paste with glue and a black filler but I am not sure how well glue will take edge paint. So far all my tests have failed.

Bob

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Posted
5 hours ago, BDAZ said:

You may have missed that this is production work and I find using tape saves me lots of assembly time and eliminates drips and ruined pieces. The parts have quite a bit of work already invest in decoration prior to belong assembled. I only use glue for touch ups. I was thinking of making a paste with glue and a black filler but I am not sure how well glue will take edge paint. So far all my tests have failed.

Bob

Right on.  I've had a few times I could have used some leather spackle as well.  :o

Hope you find what you're looking for.  Good luck in your endeavors!

Cheers

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Posted

I'm wondering if 'Artists Acrylic Medium' mixed with dye would work

AAM is available in art shops. It usually comes in tubes or tubs. Available in gloss or matt. Its neutral in colour. Artists mix it with their acrylic paints to thicken them and give them body. It does sometimes take a time to dry. Although it dries 'hard' it stays fairly flexible. I use to thicken my model acrylic paints and as a gluecked

Not DIY there is this stuff; a set of acrylic colour pastes.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Seat-Sofas-Vinyl-No-Heat-Liquid-Hole-Rips-Burns-Leather-Repair-Tool-Kit-Hot-/272961840219?hash=item3f8dcb245b

I first came across them 25 years ago for repairing cracks in dried out dashes in cars, My Cadillac  dash top was badly cracked and this stuff was mixed and pasted on. Back then it cost me about £25. I recently got some from China and the set cost under £3 - delivered. I tried some on a bit of leather. It took over night to dry but its remained flexible

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

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Posted

Thanks for the input but a quick set solution is essential.

 

Bob

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Posted

Bob, did you experiment with silicone caulk as well as acrylic? Silicone can apparently be catalysed by mixing in corn starch, which provides moisture to the silicone away from the surface so allows the whole lot to set up faster. There are people using it for low-cost casting.

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Posted
9 minutes ago, Matt S said:

Bob, did you experiment with silicone caulk as well as acrylic? Silicone can apparently be catalysed by mixing in corn starch, which provides moisture to the silicone away from the surface so allows the whole lot to set up faster. There are people using it for low-cost casting.

Not yet. I don't believe edge paint would stick to the silicone but if the silicone could be used as a combination filler/edge dressing, that could be the business. To that end I am playing with a slot with a small rounded end that can be used to run a perfect bead of silicone across the top of the edge producing a perfect rounded silicone edge and fill. Black silicone would be perfect.

Will definitely try the corn starch as well. Thanks!

Bob

  • 6 months later...
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Posted

Hello - I was wondering if you found a solution? I am going through a tough time getting my edges to stay together after I sew them up. I logged in to the Forum for some expert advice and saw your thread. I get small gaps & edge separation along my gussets in handbags. I tried many glues and different clamping methods but after sewing ( cowboy 4500) possibly the heavy pressure foot causing edges to come apart? I'm sewing croc embossed cowhide ( has a glossy surface) using a edge skiver ( also cowboy brand) I feel I tried everything as far as prepping edges ( even enrolled in a online edge course) using sander, wax, burnisher and paint. Edges still coming apart and even have small ripples in some areas. I'm getting as close to the edge as possible when I sew and using different length of clamps to mold edges prior to sewing. I'm really stumped & frustrated at how many bags I have to seam rip & try again unless someone has a suggestion?    

Sincerely

xoxoxo

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Posted

I have not had any success in finding a stable filler that will bind the edge and produce a smooth finish.My problems occur after wet forming on a wooden form which stretched the 5-6 oz leather sides. I haven't given up yet..

 

Bob

Posted
5 hours ago, carmela said:

Hello - I was wondering if you found a solution? I am going through a tough time getting my edges to stay together after I sew them up. I logged in to the Forum for some expert advice and saw your thread. I get small gaps & edge separation along my gussets in handbags. I tried many glues and different clamping methods but after sewing ( cowboy 4500) possibly the heavy pressure foot causing edges to come apart? I'm sewing croc embossed cowhide ( has a glossy surface) using a edge skiver ( also cowboy brand) I feel I tried everything as far as prepping edges ( even enrolled in a online edge course) using sander, wax, burnisher and paint. Edges still coming apart and even have small ripples in some areas. I'm getting as close to the edge as possible when I sew and using different length of clamps to mold edges prior to sewing. I'm really stumped & frustrated at how many bags I have to seam rip & try again unless someone has a suggestion?    

Sincerely

xoxoxo

@carmela If you would post some pictures of the problem and a description of how you went about it I would be happy to try and advise. Is the leather oily/greasy? What glue type are you using. If you are using edge paints you should not apply any waxes until the very end. Burnishing is also not advised. A picture of the cowboy set up showing the needle and entry point area may be an idea as well.

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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Posted
On 6/16/2018 at 7:39 PM, BDAZ said:

Most of my production items are glued, stitched and then wet formed with dozens of different forms. I make a number standardized products customized with the particular form required. Sometimes there is a very tight fit and the edges tend to separate slightly. I generally  don't use an edger, just edgepaint and burnish but it hasn't been a critical part of the process. I would like to improve the quality of the edges , especially where there is a small separation along the edge. I would prefer to have some type of filler  I can apply and then use a single coat of edge paint rather then multiple coats.

After researching I have seen a few possibilities but I am wondering if anyone has a personal favorite that would work as a filler, sand, burnish and then take Edgecote.

Thanks!

Bob

if the edges separate from each other then you're doing something wrong.

edge paint will do the job, unless you want the edges looks good. but you have already stated 'not looking for perfection' - this confuses

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