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Alpha, it's about as organized as it's ever going to be, until I get a larger workspace!

The dyes all have their own spot in a nearby cupboard, carefully put away inside plastic tote boxes. Some tend to leak more than others, and THEY are inside individual ziplock bags. 

But yeah, we all get careless from time to time... :rolleyes2:  I usually try to recap dyes as quickly as possible after using them, and when dyeing, I use a syringe to transfer the dye to a glass shot glass with a heavy bottom, to help prevent spills, and make sure the spill is fairly small if the glass does tip over.

This time I didn't recap the dye bottle soon enough! 

Just curious to know if anyone else ever had a problem with Fiebing's saddle soap removing dye! That was a real shocker!

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Posted

JANE,

I am in the wood shop so will not give you any detailed ideas now. When I get to my computer upstairs......

Ferg

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Jane,

 

Here goes.

Loosen top tension on your machine until those knots are tied inside the thickness of your leather.

You are trying to accomplish so many things all at once. Baby steps first, okay? 

Make the flap, plus the back, plus the front of your purse all one piece. Use 4oz - 5oz raw veg tanned. Don't try to stain it.

Do your carving, nice job by the way, stain or paint with acrylics on your design after the leather has dried. When the Celtic Design colors are to your liking allow them to dry for no less that 24 hours. Now, you can use Olive Oil, since I have an idea you may be more likely to have that than Neats Foot Oil, to cover the remainder of this piece of leather. Apply with a fine textured sponge, the round ones about 5 or 6 cm in diameter, are available most places. Apply lightly and try to make it even amount if you are looking for a solid color or "mess" with the oil a little bit if you want varied depth of color. Apply two coats, allow to dry so it isn't greasy. Do that until you are satisfied with the depth of brown color. Remember, the leather will darken after a few months of use. Don't place the leather piece in the sun, it may cause a problem with your paint or stain on the graphic.

If you want a pocket on the outside, extend the length of the above large piece to the top edge of purse. Cut a piece of leather for your pocket and stitch it onto the front just above your fastener taking it a little below the top edge of large piece. Best way to cover the raw edges of leather on a "classy" item is to do a rolled edge. You may not wish to do that this time. Before you stitch the pocket, sand the edges with 600 grit sandpaper, the finest you have. Don't bear down when sanding. If you have some natural shoe polish or paste wood furniture wax, put some on an old piece of Blue Jean material that has been folded over itself several times. Rub the edges until you can feel them getting warm to the touch. Don't get the wax on the face of the pocket leather unless you want to rub that into it also. This can take some time so just take a deep breath and do it until the edge feels smooth. Since you have now made a pocket that does not go all the way to the edge of the purse, you have eliminated one layer of leather. The pocket can be made of a little thinner leather if you wish. The gusset should be the same as your other "Bag" leather.

LINING!!!!!!

Mama says she has supper ready. I will finish after.

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Posted (edited)

Wow!  That`s a lot of advice to absorb! Thank you! Looking forward to part II.

Ferg, just so you know, a lot of this does not apply as both these projects were Tandy kits which I added my own carving design to. All seams were hand-stitched. Yes, I have a few calluses I didn`t have before...

HOWEVER, I am planning to do both bags AGAIN, using leather I prepare myself. (Needless to say,  some of it's going to be MUCH better quality! ) Actually the belt bag is already a WIP, and is the one that got the dye rubbed off it by the saddle soap. I have put a Tudor rose design on the front of it. The second messenger bag will have a triskelion on it, the same as the one on Thor`s hammer in the movie! So, I can use your advice on these bags. :)

Oh, yeah...former equestrian here. Neatsfoot oil and I go waaaaay back... 

636px-Triquetra-Double.svg.png

Edited by Sheilajeanne
  • Contributing Member
Posted

Lining again:

If you wish to make the lining of Pig skin that is okay. Doeskin or similar would be easier. Buy a lining leather that is already a color. You need to make another purse just like the one you have already put together from the lining leather with one exception. You only want it to be big enough to come to the top of the upper edges of your purse body. Locate on your lining where you wish to have an inside pocket. Cut a pocket of the same material as your lining, stitching it in place. If you want to make a gusset into the lining no problem. Glue the edges of the lining and gusset together with "Gel Contact Cement". Let it set overnight at least. Turn the lining wrong side out and stitch  as though you were going to make a French Seam. Do not stitch across the top edges. Press the two "flaps" on either side of the stitching, down and glue them so they lay flat on either side of the previous stitch line. Turn the liner right side out, hope you put the inside pocket on the correct side of the liner Lol.

Cut strips of pig, calf skin, whatever you have that is real thin, 22mm plus the thickness of your bag where the gusset is attached to outside leather. Maybe three or four millimeters. You will wrap the edges of your bag, all the way around. Do not stitch the top edges yet. Stuff the lining into the bag so it fits inside nicely. You should have enough of the lining to allow you to trim it evenly with the outside leather. When you stitch that rolled edging over the lining that is what holds it into place. When the owner of the bag wish to clean her purse out real well she can pull that lining out enough to dump all the fragments of whatever was in that purse.

I am not known for giving real understandable instructions so do not hesitate to ask for clarifications if need be.

Ferg

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Those kits make good patterns.

Ferg

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Posted
3 hours ago, Ferg said:

Those kits make good patterns.

Ferg

That's one of the best uses for most of the Tandy kits!  They mostly pretty decent designs really. Trace out the pieces on cardboard or such, marking out a line where the stitch holes are rather than individual holes.  Go ahead and assemble the kit, learning just how to put things together - what order and such.  When you're ready to make another, pull out the cardboard patterns, cut your pieces, and mark the stitch lines lightly with dividers and then make proper stitch holes with stitching chisels or pricking irons and an awl.  Now you've got a nicely designed bag that's put together with much nicer stitching than you'd get with those big holes in the initial kit!

- Bill

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Posted

Shelia, nice work!

I just finished the same 'kit' from Tandy and I must say, even a 'Rocket Scientist' would have a hard time due to poor writing and poor picture quality! Not to mention having to hold like 4 to 5 pieces of leather all together at the bottom of the bag and attempt to hand sew them nicely together!

I can make that bag from scratch and have it put together much faster and cheaper than their kit.

I gave the finished product to my Son and he and everyone else loves it.

The 'Smell' of the leather though is almost sickening! Weird:(

Sam:)

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Posted (edited)

Oh yeah, sewing the bottom of the bag was Not Fun! Then I found out I'd lined the pockets instead of the inside of the bag, and I wanted to tear my hair out! Solved the problem by gluing the lining overtop of that seam. It's at the bottom of the bag...no one will ever notice if the liner doesn't stick very well!

When reading the instructions for sewing the gussets in place, they wanted me to measure out 18 FEET of thread! I just laughed, and sewed each side of the gusset with a separate piece of thread. I mean, REALLY? Do the people who write these instructions actually try to FOLLOW them? :crazy:  Imagine trying to keep 18 ft. of thread from tying itself in knots, or wrapping itself around everything as you try to sew! :rolleyes2:  

 

Edited by Sheilajeanne

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