Members katit Posted July 13, 2018 Author Members Report Posted July 13, 2018 The guy just posted pics. Considering servo motor will be a must for me what would be a great no brainer price? https://stlouis.craigslist.org/tls/d/singer-walking-foot-sewing/6641290524.html Quote
Members katit Posted July 13, 2018 Author Members Report Posted July 13, 2018 2 minutes ago, Uwe said: Obviously, the only proper thing to do is to get a high-end made-in-Germany sewing machine of roughly the same vintage as the BMW you're restoring For example, I have a Pfaff 545 H4 N10 that I bought in, of all places, St. Louis when I attended a car club event about two years ago. The H4 means it has very high foot lift, the N10 means it can make 10mm long stitches. It wasn't working when I got it, but it's a big hunk of buttery smoothness now. The only fly in the ointment, so to speak, is that in exchange for the 10mm stitch length you give up reverse. But lack of reverse is not a show stopper for a determined seamster. YouTuber and automotive upholstery guru Cechaflo uses machine that have reverse, but he usually locks his stitches manually. I could be talked into selling the machine. The nice thing about high-end vintage sewing machine originals is that they hold their value very well. You can buy a nice vintage Pfaff or Durkopp Adler now and sell it again for about the same in a year or two, if you take good care of it. It really makes no material difference whether the machine is 30 or 32 years old. Hehe. My BMW is not that old by sewing machine standards it’s 94. And it’s got reverse I watched most of the Cechaflo videos, he uses reverse to lock seams from what I can tell. He got pfaff but I know I need servo and he got clutch. I probably never going to reach high speeds but seeing how scary fast those machines I rather go slow Quote
DonInReno Posted July 13, 2018 Report Posted July 13, 2018 If you're a car guy it's a no brainier that you should get a used machine - find the least expensive walking foot singer 111w155, 211w155, Juki 562/3, etc you can find and go through it, paint and when you're done you'll be able to get more than your money out of it. If you enjoy sewing it's a machine you won't outgrow, and it will outlive you. Delivered to your door I've seen fixers for $250 every few months - same for craigslist, fb marketplace. Quote
Members katit Posted July 13, 2018 Author Members Report Posted July 13, 2018 I hear you and part of me wants this... any comment on Singer value I posted above? Quote
Members Constabulary Posted July 13, 2018 Members Report Posted July 13, 2018 (edited) I have the predecessor 111G156 and the double needle / needle feed version of the above 211G156 (the 212G141) and I can tell you there is nothing wrong with buying a Singer machine. BTW - "G" means the machine is made in Germany. I would also consider Pfaff as Mercedes of sewing machines but again - nothing wrong with Singer - especially the parts and accessory situation is excellent. Presser feet sets are usually a lot cheaper than for the Pfaffs. But no matter what machine brand you buy - it always depends on how it has been treated before "it went out of business". So you can have luck with Pfaff or even got screwed - same with Singer or Adler. Best bet is go and test it. I have restored all my sewing machines (more or less). Most vintage walking foot / triple feed machines are quite well documented and you find tons of information - especially here in the forum. It is all doable even for a novice... The 111 / 211G156 (with reverse) also has the "longer forward stitch feature" but as Uwe said a longer forward stitch length reduces the reverse stitch length. I have not tested how long the the max. forward stitch length is but its a quite easy task - it is just 1 screw you have to loosen to alter the forward stitch length. Edited July 13, 2018 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members katit Posted July 13, 2018 Author Members Report Posted July 13, 2018 Lots of good input. Can you clarify on "reverse" feature? Longer forward stitch means reduced reverse, what does it mean? I can't sew through the same hole going backwards? Or I can't sew backwards at all? My rationale is this: If stitch visible and need to be presentable I probably won't do reverse anyway. For stitching on a back it doesn't matter how I lock, correct? Can you give me basic input on Pfaff machines to look for? I know it's 545, but there is 1245? And others I assume? What numbers I should look for? Are they all made in Germany? On Singers, as long as it's 111 or 211 it will work for me, correct? I did more studying on motors and now I think differently. I'm sure I can manage clutch. I just feel like I'm going to hate motor spinning all the time, thats probably bigger issue - noise. Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted July 13, 2018 Moderator Report Posted July 13, 2018 @katit None of my multitudinous Singer sewing machines have reverse. I just spin the work 180 degrees to sew through the previous stitch holes and they line up perfectly. If turning the work it not practical, I just tie off the threads on the back and burn the stubs. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members katit Posted July 13, 2018 Author Members Report Posted July 13, 2018 (edited) 15 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said: @katit None of my multitudinous Singer sewing machines have reverse. I just spin the work 180 degrees to sew through the previous stitch holes and they line up perfectly. If turning the work it not practical, I just tie off the threads on the back and burn the stubs. I afraid for car upholstery turning 180 degree will not be practical. There is bigger awkward pieces and sewing padding to them, etc. Locking need to be done a lot. I can see when doing belts/holsters it can be done by hand but with lot's of seams it will get old soon Edited July 13, 2018 by katit Quote
Members Big Sioux Saddlery Posted July 13, 2018 Members Report Posted July 13, 2018 There's been LOTS of car upholstery sewed on machines with no reverse. If you can't spin the work, lift the foot, move the work by hand back one stitch, turn the machine over to make the stitch (make sure to lower the foot first), repeat for as many back stitches as you want to make. More than one way to skin a cat. Quote
Members katit Posted July 13, 2018 Author Members Report Posted July 13, 2018 1 minute ago, Big Sioux Saddlery said: There's been LOTS of car upholstery sewed on machines with no reverse. If you can't spin the work, lift the foot, move the work by hand back one stitch, turn the machine over to make the stitch (make sure to lower the foot first), repeat for as many back stitches as you want to make. More than one way to skin a cat. I'm sure it's possible, just not sure I need to settle with lack of reverse when choosing machine. To put it in perspective - my granpa was sewing leather coats (with fur) for living. I know it was Singer machine circa 1930. I know it was manual drive. I know it's not walking foot. And he was very good and did great job with this machine. I think it had modded spring to sew leather. But reading more about all that I think he did a lot with very little. Quote
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