SInger 95K51 finally with reducer and...WOW

[plinkercases]

I finally completed my franken-reducer set up on the singer and WOW what a difference.

As much as I appreciate the lower speed it is the controlled start up I love and with just a little practice on the pedal I was getting single stich placement.

It is doing a great job punching through about 22 oz just for fun with #69 thread. The manual for this very machine sasy it can go up to a 23 needle and this 207 thread but I could NOT get it to pull up the button with even 138. BUT that's another thread.

I learned a lot with working this set up out so it will be easier for my Pfaff335 which is coming downstairs tomorrow. I can just imaging what a servo and reducer set up will be like for control.

Right now it starts at 1275 motor RPM and 3 inch motor pulley belt drives 6 inch reducer pulley which then shaft drives - 1.5 inch pulley that belt drives the 2.5 inch machine pulley at approx. 425 rpm (calculator doesn't do half inch increments) so a 1/3 drop through the system. I have a smaller motor pulley coming which will replace the OME 3 inch and make things even better.

A few lessons:

1. cut the shaft a little longer than you think so you have some room to spread out and align the pulleys
2. used shims at the top (or bottom) of the mounting board to help get belts more aligned - pictures are pre shim as the idea came when looking at them and really seeing where the belts needed a little more space and alignment
3. when enlarging the belt slot in the table go bigger than you think the first time as this stuff is impossible to "shave off a little more"
4. buy a few belts around the size you think/measure you will need so you have some option without running  back to the store... can always return them after the next one is done.
5. drop the motor to the mid point so you have room to move in either direction before setting the pulley assembly placement
6. cut the boards that clamp to the table legs long than you think so you have lots of adjustment room for the final pulley placement
7. threaded rod make great universal length bolts!!
8. buy a complete set of metric and imperial long allen keys.....
9. it is worth every minute of effort and the few dollars in stuff to do this.

I am very pleased with how it all fit together and lined up. Thanks to the inspiration from photos of someone else's set up... who I can recall their name right now but they will recognize the approach.

This is definitely one of the things I wish I had learned about before!

[alpha2]

I had to laugh at some of the things you listed as "learning experiences"! I thought, "well, that's obvious", then realized they were exactly what I would have screwed up and had to do over! (Especially the running back to the store for stuff, I OWN that one!)

Enjoy your new "almost stress free" stitching now.

Jeff

[Davidmadd]

I also went down the route of setting up a reducer gear for my Singers, but although better, still did not give me that ultimate slow control that my lack of skill demanded.  I have spent quite some time experimenting with alternative drive systems and have settled on using DC Motors.  These need a DC power supply and of course a controller.  But these items are readily available on eBay and not too expensive.  I currently use a 250W motor from an electric bike or scooter to drive my 31k15, 31k47 and even my 111w154.  I found I needed to increase the size of the Sewing machine pulley on the 111W154 for best results using this motor but it really does give superb slow speed control. I increased the size of the "handwheel" as well as I now do really tricky bits by just turning it by hand!! 

The only difficulty I found was getting hold of a foot pedal with a potentiometer inside.  I have overcome it by using what was a presser foot lift pedal and connecting that to a potentiometer arm.  I have recently found a plunge potentiometer which should allow an even easier set up for a pedal.  I wanted a lot of pedal travel as it gives great slow speed control but when needed, you can rev up to a decent speed.  I've now got some slightly bigger motors as I intend to use a similar set up on my 132K6 and 45K machines.

[plinkercases]

Now thats wow!.

I tried to find a pully for the machine and larger hand wheel but rhe ID is just larger than 1/2 and smaller than 5/8... i could find anything off the shelf and am still considering getting something machined. Where is you get yours?

And clever McGybering using other sources for the motor and controls.

For my other machine i already have a servo motor to install.

 

[dikman]

David, I like your solution. How about some construction details for the handwheel? In case anyone wants to try the same idea.

I have a "mini metal lathe" which stopped working, the control board died. In the process I've learned a lot about the motors and controllers used in these lathes (usually an 80-90 volt DC motor and variable speed controller), and I reckon they could be used for a similar solution . The only problem with these motors is if they're run at slow speed for too long they can overheat, they need a suitable fan attached to the motor. The controllers, however, are very compact. Could have possibilities.

[Northmount]

22 hours ago, plinkercases said:

Right now it starts at 1275 motor RPM and 3 inch motor pulley belt drives 6 inch reducer pulley which then shaft drives - 1.5 inch pulley that belt drives the 2.5 inch machine pulley at approx. 425 rpm (calculator doesn't do half inch increments) so a 1/3 drop through the system.

3" to 6" gives a speed reduction of 3/6 = 0.5 (or 1/2 if you wish). 

1.5" to 2.5" gives 1.5/2.5 = 0.6. 

0.5 x 0.6 = 0.3, so the final speed is 30% of the motor rpm, = 382.5 rpm if there is no belt slippage.  No fancy calculator required, just some basic math.  And yes, your result of 1/3 is close enough for estimating purposes.  33% versus 30%.  Good job.  If you have the time, it certainly saves a few dollars.

Here is what I did with mine!   Still using the bungee cord too.

Tom

[plinkercases]

3 hours ago, Northmount said:

Here is what I did with mine!   Still using the bungee cord too.

Very similar approach but the bungie cord is an added touch of class!

 

4 hours ago, dikman said:

How about some construction details for the handwheel? In case anyone wants to try the same idea.

Yes sir I would also like more info on the hand wheel swap....

[SheltathaLore]

Quote

I have spent quite some time experimenting with alternative drive systems and have settled on using DC Motors.  These need a DC power supply and of course a controller.  But these items are readily available on eBay and not too expensive. 

I would also love more details on your setup!  Hard to believe you can run that machine with such a bitty motor, but I guess technology marches on.

[plinkercases]

I order a much smaller consew motor pully (2 inch) and found some brass banding in my rive shed which allowed me to shim the old larger motor pulley onto the machine and ta-da!!! even more reduction. And I rigged it all with a spring tensioning system so it is easy to tip the machine or just remove the belts. I made a video of it running but my photo bucket is actin up so maybe later. if there was a clever machinist here they could make a ton spinning out larger machine pulleys that fit these weird shaft sizes...

[DonInReno]

Good job - it’s hard to get too much reduction for many things!