Beginner's Questions...Again

[zuludog]

Whatever knife or knives you get, you will need at least two

The first one should be kept razor sharp for use on leather only, and look after it

The second one can be almost anything you like; use it for cutting string; opening parcels; sharpening pencils; and so on. Its purpose in life is to make sure that you use the first one exclusively for leatherwork. 

https://www.gandmtools.co.uk have some old George Barnsley tools, including several types of leatherwork and paring knives, and awls, all at reasonable prices. Well worth having a look through

The link doesn't seem to work, but you can find gandm if you enter it directly

Edited August 3, 2018 by zuludog

[ScoobyNewbie]

Is that why my stitches look like a five year olds?!? I’m not happy with the discolored line that a stitching groover leaves, and while I have a wing divider, nobody talked to me about using it to mark the stitching lines. They are straight enough, and not bumpy, but you guys are talking about using a hammer on the stitches? Does that push them down for a smoother look?

Edited August 3, 2018 by ScoobyNewbie
Misspelled word

[taketothetrees]

Thank you all for the answers - there's a lot of info for me to take in and I'm slowly piecing together my starter kit. Great feedback. 

Matt S - Thanks for the compliment and the info on the other retailers. I don't sail but have an interest in nautical knotwork and related marlinspike seamanship. I'm a tree surgeon and a lot of what we use as tree climbers comes from (even tenuously) the time of tall ships. 

DJole - Thanks for the info. on Ian's vids. I have previously subscribed to his channel, but have yet to find the time to watch them all. I hope your trip to Wales was enjoyable! 

 

 

[Matt S]

4 hours ago, taketothetrees said:

Matt S - Thanks for the compliment and the info on the other retailers. I don't sail but have an interest in nautical knotwork and related marlinspike seamanship. I'm a tree surgeon and a lot of what we use as tree climbers comes from (even tenuously) the time of tall ships.

Marlinspike work is beautiful -- I frequently resist the urge to get into it. Do you use the backstitch when sewing canvas? If so you can use this with leather too, even heavy stuff. I think it's just as strong as a saddle stitch but slower and takes more thread. Canvas needles may work in place of glovers needles on thin, soft leather but I've not tried it.

[taketothetrees]

Quick question: large or small rawhide mallet? Is the large too large for everyday general stuff? Is the small too light for punching and stamping? Thanks! 

[taketothetrees]

On ‎03‎/‎08‎/‎2018 at 8:09 AM, zuludog said:

What sort of thread do you intend to use? Most leatherworkers now seem to be using synthetic thread,. of which Ritza/Tiger thread is very popular, but I don't like it, I prefer linen

I prefer using natural fibre cordage with my current projects, and would like to do so with leatherwork too. With the ditty bags and tool rolls that I make I use polished flax hemp, but this will be too thick for leatherwork, so I'll probably use linen. Does synthetic thread leave a nicer finish though, I wonder? 

[zuludog]

The problem is that there's only one way to find out what thread you like, and that's to try it, which could get expensive

The most popular synthetic thread is made by the Danish company Julius Koch under the name Ritza, but as it has a picture of a tiger on the label it is also known as Tiger Thread. It is normally only available in large rolls, 500m, and costs about £55, but shop around on t'Net and you will find people selling shorter lengths. It is available in several diameters; I'd say start with 0,8mm or 0,6mm

The thickness measurement for linen thread is a bit confusing, but all you need to know is that for leatherwork the most common thickness is 18/3

Bowstock have 180m reels of black/white/natural 18/3  for £ 4-75. Their website has some useful tutorials including an explanation of linen thread thickness

Kurzke has full rolls of coloured linen from several manufacturers and offers mixed/sample packs at reasonable prices

I would stay away from anonymous packs of 'linen thread' or 'thread for leather' sold on your local market or t'Net, including Amazon; some of it isn't that good, and Bowstock or Kurzke's samples are cheap enough to try

Here are some useful websites

https://www.bowstock.co.uk 

https://hwebber.co.uk

https://abbeyengland.com

https://kurzke.co.uk

Don't forget that whatever thread you choose it should be waxed, either ready or DIY

[battlemunky]

Regarding mallets @taketothetrees, I only have rawhide and have a large and a small. I use the small (12 oz I think) for most tooling work and the large (16 oz) for those "one hit" type stamps and for setting ez rivets and snaps. I also have a 24 oz ball peen hammer for brad rivets.

There are some great youtube videos on hammer vs. mallet. vs. maul. Each has it's own pros and cons and there is a ton of subjectivity so like thread, it is a "feel" thing and you don't really know which you like until you try some and on some of these items, the admission price can be a bit prohibitive. I'd love to have a Barry King round maul but I don't know if I'm ready to have a really pretty $70 bill sitting on my bench not being used, so I haven't sprung for one just yet.

[splinters]

Love this forum. I have a twist in my knickers about getting a thread groover so started a search this evening. I shall now contain myself and tomorrow start practicing with a set of dividers that I have in my kit to mark my sewing line. Grand. I spent some time  on practicing saddle stitching this afternoon and almost went around the bend trying to cut a groove in the practice piece with an old groover when I came to my senses and said why don’t you go to Leatherworker and see what folks suggest. 

Thanks again to all of you

Patrick

[bikermutt07]

This thread was a good read. Great job guys.

I noticed a few days ago that Wuta has some beginners kits on eBay. I have always had good luck with his stuff.