Zipper installation multipurpose guide

[RockyAussie]

5 hours ago, garypl said:

Thanks for the lesson Brian!  So if I had the stl file I would just have to use Acura to set parameters and then hit print.  I might be able to do that!

I am going to read up on this some more - maybe I can learn a new skill!

One last question - is the filament plastic expensive?  For example, how much plastic did you have to use for the bobbin  holder?  

Gary

The PLA filament I used in this case is pretty cheap and easy to use. The large rectangle bobbin holder uses 116 grams at 30% fill and that is around $4.00 au (about $3.00US). The revolving bobbin holder at 20% fill is 80 gram which is about $3.00au ($2.25US dollars). You have to take into account a little bit for the power cost etc as well. I just checked the little zipper piece and it is 2 gram and cost 6 cents au. Good thing there as you can load the platform up with heaps.

Brian

[garypl]

2 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

The PLA filament I used in this case is pretty cheap and easy to use. The large rectangle bobbin holder uses 116 grams at 30% fill and that is around $4.00 au (about $3.00US). The revolving bobbin holder at 20% fill is 80 gram which is about $3.00au ($2.25US dollars). You have to take into account a little bit for the power cost etc as well. I just checked the little zipper piece and it is 2 gram and cost 6 cents au. Good thing there as you can load the platform up with heaps.

Brian

Thanks Brian - I will do some more research on this - sure sounds interesting as long as I don’t have to learn how to be a programmer!

Gary

[dikman]

Gary, as Brian said if you buy an already-built one (look for reviews first to see what people think of it) then all you need to learn about is the slicer programme that converts to the G code needed to print. I use Slicer, it and Cura are probably the most widely used. This part of it isn't to hard to master. As for filament it's pretty cheap in the US, just start with your basic PLA.

It gets complicated if you start fiddling with the operating system!

[Uwe]

Even without getting into G-Code, there's still a fair amount of twiddling with the settings to get things to print right. 

I printed  batch of the links last night just to see if my printer was up to it and how they turned out. Turns out printer is up to the task, but the links connect somewhat loosely. The original photos look like the links connect quite solidly. On my links there's a tiny gap between the wall of the linking elements, allowing for play. They might still work, but I don't have any suitable zippers to test with. 

Nozzle size, layer thickness, filament material, fill, wall thickness, alignment of the planets, and other parameters may affect certain dimensions. That's not a problem if you print little Yoda figurines, but mechanical interconnecting parts require a little more precision. Like cutters, there may also be settings to print "on", "inside" or "outside" the line but the software driving my printer is not super fancy.  Alternatively, the CAD model may need to be tweaked to compensate for printer variations. I have a feeling that no two printers will produce truly identical parts, only parts that are quite close.

Here's a picture of my batch of links. I took just under six hours to print 27 links with PLA filament, 0.2mm layer thickness and 65% fill.

Here's a picture of the sideways curvature play my connected links have::

 

Edited August 21, 2018 by Uwe

[dikman]

Maybe you should have printed just a couple first to try them out?

I wonder just how critical that sideplay will be, if it's a snug fit over the zip then it shouldn't matter too much?

[garypl]

2 hours ago, dikman said:

Gary, as Brian said if you buy an already-built one (look for reviews first to see what people think of it) then all you need to learn about is the slicer programme that converts to the G code needed to print. I use Slicer, it and Cura are probably the most widely used. This part of it isn't to hard to master. As for filament it's pretty cheap in the US, just start with your basic PLA.

It gets complicated if you start fiddling with the operating system!

Dikman, if I do get a printer I will keep things as simple as possible!  I don’t see myself trying to create programs - just thought it would be interesting to play around with a new gadget!

Gary

[dikman]

Of course! It's always nice to have a new toy . I reckon you'll enjoy playing with one. There are many free files available on thingiverse for all sorts of things - some of them even useful.

[RockyAussie]

11 hours ago, Uwe said:

Even without getting into G-Code, there's still a fair amount of twiddling with the settings to get things to print right. 

I printed  batch of the links last night just to see if my printer was up to it and how they turned out. Turns out printer is up to the task, but the links connect somewhat loosely. The original photos look like the links connect quite solidly. On my links there's a tiny gap between the wall of the linking elements, allowing for play. They might still work, but I don't have any suitable zippers to test with. 

Nozzle size, layer thickness, filament material, fill, wall thickness, alignment of the planets, and other parameters may affect certain dimensions. That's not a problem if you print little Yoda figurines, but mechanical interconnecting parts require a little more precision. Like cutters, there may also be settings to print "on", "inside" or "outside" the line but the software driving my printer is not super fancy.  Alternatively, the CAD model may need to be tweaked to compensate for printer variations. I have a feeling that no two printers will produce truly identical parts, only parts that are quite close.

Here's a picture of my batch of links. I took just under six hours to print 27 links with PLA filament, 0.2mm layer thickness and 65% fill.

Here's a picture of the sideways curvature play my connected links have::

 

Hi Uwe, I have to be quick as dinner is ready. If it holds the zip firmly it will stay quite straight. If not increase you flow a little or as below. The compression on the zip working together should make it straight.

M190 S65.000000       That's my bed temperature
M109 S215.000000      This is the temperature I'm running the filament at. This is pretty hot but I like it to really connect well. Causes a little swell. Also I have the 1.75mm filament set at 1.74mm to offset variations in the filament thickness and that also increases the size a little but makes for good connection. Another note: I am running a .4mm nozzle.

; -- START GCODE --
;Sliced at: Sat 18-08-2018 13:00:48
;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.2mm
;                Walls: 0.8mm
;                Top and Bottom: 0.8mm
;                Fill: 30 percent
;Print speed: 45
;Print time: 28 minutes                     (That is for 3 pieces= 9.3mins each and is possibly why your holes look better than mine
;Filament used: 1.747m 5.0g
;Filament cost: 0.19

[Matt S]

These guides look great. I could really do with one for the zips I use (YKK brass No5 is think).

@Uwe Do you know or suspect where the distortion is occuring -- is the body of each link warping? Or is it an excessive difference in the internal diameter of the pivot holes and the external diameter of the corresponding studs? If it's the latter perhaps you could replace the studs with holes and introduce some sort of pivot pin? Maybe even reaming the holes to dimension if they aren't parallel or out of round?

[Uwe]

6 hours ago, Matt S said:

@Uwe Do you know or suspect where the distortion is occuring -- is the body of each link warping? Or is it an excessive difference in the internal diameter of the pivot holes and the external diameter of the corresponding studs? If it's the latter perhaps you could replace the studs with holes and introduce some sort of pivot pin? Maybe even reaming the holes to dimension if they aren't parallel or out of round?

The sideways wiggle room is due to a gap/play between the walls where the parts connect. The part should be snug, but mine have play. The holes and pivot points are fine, actually.

I think I'll rustle up a link in Fusion 360 and see how the dimensions come out when printed. I feel the outer legs with the holes need to be stronger on my printed parts. The inner leg with the pivot points is plenty strong.

I have a YKK metal zipper from Tandy Leather that I was going to use to make some luggage. I'll try to make a link to fit that, just for practice and 3D printing fun.

 

Edited August 21, 2018 by Uwe