Help with Avenger style holster

[Hildebrand]

I built the holster pictured below for a Ruger Redhawk with a 4" barrel.  Gun fit is great, first holster to actually get a click when the gun is inserted.  I wore it for an extended period over the 3 day weekend and I like the fit with the exception that it rides to high to comfortably draw the gun.  Would it help to have a forward cant for the gun, I don't think there is much room to move the belt slot and tunnel up much to lower the gun.  All suggestions welcome.  Please ignore the stitch line over the reinforcement piece on the back, I forgot to transfer my stitch line to that side of the pattern and drew up the reinforcement piece and didn't catch the mistake until I had sewn that piece on and was about to sew the holster shut.

Todd

[Stetson912]

I think you answered your own question. Forward can't is the only possible solution that I can visualize sith that style holster. The only other way would be to do a western style with a dropped belt loop. 

You can raise the back loop a bit without too much trouble, it's the one under the grip that can't really move higher. Otherwise you won't be able to ...ahem... Get a grip haha. Even with a pancake, you'll have the same issue. Maybe there is a way and I just don't knows it.

[JLSleather]

4" shouldn't be a problem "leaning" the angle a bit.  Longer guns become a pain -- more it's angled, the more likely that it "sticks out" and is less concealable.

As a rule:  dropping the slots lower causes the rig to ride higher.  To maintain the angle you have, would require dropping BOTH slots down.

You have the opposite issue -- you want it to ride LOWER.  Which would be done with a lower belt, or an angled belt, or a drop loop on the holster.

[Dwight]

In the design for the back loop, . . . you "stepped down" from the holster opening.

Do just the opposite, . . . raise it a half inch on the next one.

Raise the front slot as high as it will go, . . . and it will give you some cant on the gun.  Once you have move the back slot up, . . . tip the gun forward to the cant you want, . . . mark it, . . . make the next one there.

When I run into these problems (thankfully not often), . . . the holster that does not work gets cut up, . . . leather sewn on, . . . stitches pulled out, . . . and re-worked until it DOES do what was intended, . . . or thrown into the "other holster" box.

This one would get the rear stitches  removed, . . . slot lengthened, . . . rear slot cut off, . . . other leather sewn back on, . . . a new slot put in, . . . and then check for fit.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited September 5, 2018 by Dwight

[plinkercases]

try this: (assuming when you wanted a forward cant you meant butt forward as in an FBO cant not barrel forward as in a quick draw cant.)

• new slot as indicate
• recut the trailing edge (with a better lien than I indicated quickly) and add new stich line
• cut back stiches for the old tunnel where the "belt line" crosses them... looks like you can leave the pouch main seem

the gun will feel a little "lower" as the hammer will closer to the belt line . If you want really lower then mod the rear slot as indicated and cut off the old tunnel leather (leave the stitches) and add a new tunnel higher up.

this is what I would try anyhow...just for fun... it is the least invasive first pass.

 

[Hildebrand]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I will do another one with about a 20 degree forward cant and see if that is better. 

Thanks agan.

Todd

[chiefjason]

Instead of tossing that one, try it as a cross draw.  I don't usually do 4" like that, but once you go 6" or longer I push folks towards cross draw.  But I also cant them.  But the straight drop with the 4" barrel might work OK.