Cutting straight lines!

[TonySFLDLTHR]

8 hours ago, JerseyFirefighter said:

I still would like to get an inside track on Springfield's cam and rail type cutter they use. I would buy one of those in a heartbeat. 

We are currently in research to make these available. No ETA on this project, but just want to let you know this is in the works. 

[ScoobyNewbie]

Score! I want a cutter as well!!!!

That bag is gorgeous!

I have found that I tend to cut better when I transfer the pattern onto the suede side of the fabric and cut from there. That way I can use my leather scissors for softer leathers and they work a bit like fabric, or thick/stiffer denim. 

On thicker leathers I am still kind of jiggly. I have found that I like to cut a bit away from my real edge, that way I have room to smooth and sand the edge into submission. 

Also I seem to like to use my chisels too close to my edge, I’ve sanded some of the stitches right off before burnishing. Oops! So I try, VERY HARD, to make my chisel lines at least a quarter inch away from my actual cut line.

[RockyAussie]

6 hours ago, TonySFLDLTHR said:

We are currently in research to make these available. No ETA on this project, but just want to let you know this is in the works. 

Looking forward to hearing more about it.

[JerseyFirefighter]

13 hours ago, TonySFLDLTHR said:

We are currently in research to make these available. No ETA on this project, but just want to let you know this is in the works. 

Be still my beating heart. Thank you for chiming in and attempting to bring it to market. One of the few things I do that I thought could use streamlining was squaring up sides. That thing looks majestic. 

[billybopp]

Lots of good advice above!   

I'd love to have a straight edge anchored to a workbench like @RockyAussie shows above, but I don't have a workbench!  I'll do something like that one day when I do have one.  But for now, I have a BIG self-healing mat and kitchen floor for now, and for pieces that will fit, I use a Logan matt cutter that lets me cut up to 60".  Sure, it's meant for cutting mats for picture framing (something that I also do) but also does nicely on leather.

But without those, you can still make good cuts!  There are a number of things that can help you get that cut.

A rubber or cork backed straight edge will help keep it from moving around during the cut.  An extra pair of hands (or even feet) can help hold it down tight to help keep it from wandering.  I have a 48" ruler that I put self-adhesive cork on just for that purpose, and also have a 24" ruler that came with a rubber backing (even better than cork).  The quilting rulers that @battlemunky mentioned also work well since they have a LOT of surface area to help you hold it stable, and you can see through to your leather to help positioning over a pattern. 

Put your straight edge on the pattern side when cutting.  That way if the knife wanders away from the straight edge, the cut will be on scrap rather than into your piece.

Use body-mechanics to your favor.  It's really hard to cut a straight line when you have to swing your arm around your body to keep it in the cut.  Place your work and straight edge at an angle that will let you keep your wrist / elbow more or less locked.   That'll help to keep the blade from wobbling and wandering.

As you already know, your knife should be SHARP, and stropped!  It's great if you can cut all the way through your leather in a single cut, since that will give you the cleanest edge.  But if the knife and leather don't cooperate there's nothing wrong with multiple passes, you just might have a little more cleanup later on.  

Keep as much of your knife in the cut as you can manage.  IE, keep the handle down close to the leather.  That both makes it easier to cut in a single pass and makes it easier to keep your cut straight.   A longer blade (within reason) lets you engage more leather than does a shorter blade.  Also, don't let the knife lean or wobble side to side for a better cut.  A bigger blade can make that easier, and that is just one of the advantages of a round knife - It stands tall so the slightest variation or wobble is clearly seen!

If you're going to use a utility knife, strop it to improve on the factory edge.  Also, you'll find that the fold-out type has far less blade wobble than the retractable ones do.  For small cuts, an x-acto knife works great if you use the # 2 blades.  The standard #11 blades are pretty flimsy.  All things considered, tho, a good fixed blade knife is best.

Just a few suggestions that you might find useful

-Bill

 

p.s.  @RockyAussie I want that bag.  LOL

 

 

[RockyAussie]

On 16/09/2018 at 12:17 AM, billybopp said:

p.s.  @RockyAussie I want that bag.  LOL

Yea @billybopp I would kida like one for myself as well. It was at least a lot more interesting to make than the bags I have been making the last couple of weeks.Trouble is they sell to well, soon as they go out more orders pour in again. At least the next 50 have have a more interesting style shape. Keep your eye open for a video I hope to load this week showing the missus making the care bags for these using my new zipper guide tool. Turns out they saved her a lot of time and helped keep them neater as well. She now loves them and I have to print like a hundred more so she doesn't need to attach them on the run

[billybopp]

14 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Yea @billybopp I would kida like one for myself as well. It was at least a lot more interesting to make than the bags I have been making the last couple of weeks.Trouble is they sell to well, soon as they go out more orders pour in again. At least the next 50 have have a more interesting style shape. Keep your eye open for a video I hope to load this week showing the missus making the care bags for these using my new zipper guide tool. Turns out they saved her a lot of time and helped keep them neater as well. She now loves them and I have to print like a hundred more so she doesn't need to attach them on the run

If you've got to have troubles, selling too well is a good one to have!  Can't wait to see the video and it's awesome to hear that the zipper guide is working out well!

- Bill

[Ard Righ Art]

On 9/15/2018 at 10:17 AM, billybopp said:

Lots of good advice above!   

I'd love to have a straight edge anchored to a workbench like @RockyAussie shows above, but I don't have a workbench!  I'll do something like that one day when I do have one.  But for now, I have a BIG self-healing mat and kitchen floor for now, and for pieces that will fit, I use a Logan matt cutter that lets me cut up to 60".  Sure, it's meant for cutting mats for picture framing (something that I also do) but also does nicely on leather.

But without those, you can still make good cuts!  There are a number of things that can help you get that cut.

...-Bill

No workbench?  I have one, but find it easier to grab a piece of OSB, a couple of stanley fat max type clamps, and throw it down on any old table that I can lay out a big piece of leather. Clamp both ends of a long metal straight edge (I have a 4 foot ruler from harbor freight that works well), press down on the middle, and cut away.

The floor sounds awful. The mat cutter, nice. Might have to consider that.

 

 

 

[JazzBass]

On 9/12/2018 at 4:50 PM, Nelleyarm said:

 Oh yeah, and how to keep hole punches from bouncing and making 2 impressions.

 

In addition to a solid surface, I've found that a "Dead-Blow Hammer" is a nearly miraculous tool. They are available in all different weights, and are DIRT CHEAP at Harbor Freight.

It has lead shot inside the head. If you "commit" to a good, solid strike, it transfers all of its energy, and comes right off the tool with NO BOUNCE.
Whoever invented this "better mousetrap" is a genius!

Whether it's 3D stamps, drive punches, etc, nothing does a better job when you need a lot of force IMHO.

[Nelleyarm]

Thank you so much for your help.  Sorry for the delayed response.  I have a couple of dead blow hammers and will try them out!