Stohlman's Book Method

[plinkercases]

I am essentially a by the book Stohlman style stitcher - its where/how I learned first  - with different projects I will vary little things like grooving or scribing a line - overstitch wheel or irons - I will also sometimes also purposefully make the stiches lie straight (sometimes by accident!!)  rather than the classic angled saddle stich just because I think it matches the project better.

I don't have the most expensive awl(s) but am certainly looking  - I sharpen often, strop always  and have stitched thin to thick.

In addition to the tips above (no pun intended) I will sometimes wet the really thick leather edge a little to soften but no so much as it gets deformed by the stitching process AND I always have a bees wax plug in a hole in my horse and pony clamp arms and stick the awl in to it ever few stitches - helps the awl and the needles - a Stohlman trick as usual.

Keep at it, experiment and find what works best for you. AND don't give up.

[ScoobyNewbie]

I use my Tandy chisels and then cross the needles in the hole, then pull tight and straighten any threads that don’t lie right. I don’t usually use a pony, I just hold the project. This can get quadally if the leather is too soft, and yes, quite stabby if you’re using Glover’s needles, but they glide so much easier...

Also I found at a sewing store, a few items that help me considerably. The first is a needle grabber. Essentially it’s an about 1X1 inch square of the same rubber that you use to open bottles with. Then I also found something called machingers. They are light weight knitted gloves with rubber fingers. I wrap my fingers in... toilet paper really, then put on the gloves. No more blood on the highway! The paper catches it and the rubber kind of seals after the needle pulls back out. It seems to be working pretty good.

Oh! Plinkercases! I said I’d post the awls my brother made me...

Here one is, grainy and a shaky hand, but they work really well! 

It’s fighting with me over the fid picture and Gary has since made me one with a teeny tiny sword in it! Maybe it will let me upload them later.

[plinkercases]

Good additional info Scoob about other griping aids. Used to use vynle gloves for grip and blood containment.

Now i use the past sold for people who have to handle paper all the time. There os a good threadhere about stirching aids for aerhritis and plain old old hands. 

Of course the old needle nose plyer are always at hand.

Those arw funky awleggs you have there.

[Joon1911]

I responded to your other post as well but this being another question I’ll put in my 2¢.  The question regarding this is how much handsewing you intend to do.  If this is a hobby and intends to stay that way, you probably don’t care too much how long a particular project is going to take.  If  that’s the case, do it however you feel works best for you   If on the other hand this is a business proposition for you, time is money.  Plan on adding at least 20-40% more time to your sewing if you are putting down needles and picking them up, etc...  If you keep in mind time is money, then this is untenable.  Do what Stohlman teaches.  It is awkward at first but becomes easier and second nature after awhile, just take a look at how fast Nigel Armitage is at it.  Granted he is a master at hand sewing.

In regards to the trouble piercing 12-14 oz. of veg tan, I’ll say it again.  I think it’s your awl.   I had trouble for years until I finally understood what a good awl blade should be shaped and sharpened to.  Get a Barry King awl blade and you’ll see what I mean.  If I’m wrong, let me know and I’ll take the BK awl blade off your hands for what you paid for it shipping and all!  

Above, as always is just my humble opinion, your experience may vary. 

[JLSleather]

A good awl blade will MELT through 20 ounces of leather effortlessly.  Almost don't notice it.  I once sewed 13 - or was it 15 - weight lifting belts for a gym where the boys decided they all "had to" be hand sewn.  Think basically rectangles about 4" x 60", so 125-130" of stitching each, at 6 per inch.  What is that ... like 700-800 stitches per belt.  I might have declined, but the check they were writing for the tooling haunted me into it   Only discomfort was my hand shaped around the awl haft for too long.

Sadly, that tool disappeared in a burglary, and I have NOT been able to find a suitable QUALITY replacement since. I've purchased and THROWN OUT about 15 others that turned out to be CRAP with a fancy MARKETING STORY attached (you know.. made in the USA, by a veteran, who only drives it on Sunday... blahblah).  I don't care about "exotic" wood handles, or speeches about "ferrules".. I just want it to glide through the leather like they are INTENDED to do.

Edited October 5, 2018 by JLSleather

[koreric75]

1 hour ago, JLSleather said:

A good awl blade will MELT through 20 ounces of leather effortlessly.  Almost don't notice it.  I once sewed 13 - or was it 15 - weight lifting belts for a gym where the boys decided they all "had to" be hand sewn.  Think basically rectangles about 4" x 60", so 125-130" of stitching each, at 6 per inch.  What is that ... like 700-800 stitches per belt.  I might have declined, but the check they were writing for the tooling haunted me into it   Only discomfort was my hand shaped around the awl haft for too long.

Sadly, that tool disappeared in a burglary, and I have NOT been able to find a suitable QUALITY replacement since. I've purchased and THROWN OUT about 15 others that turned out to be CRAP with a fancy MARKETING STORY attached (you know.. made in the USA, by a veteran, who only drives it on Sunday... blahblah).  I don't care about "exotic" wood handles, or speeches about "ferrules".. I just want it to glide through the leather like they are INTENDED to do.

Amen!

[Riem]

Firstly, I'm not as experienced as most of the members who have commented so far, so maybe I shouldn't opine at all, and your mileage may vary. Secondly, I'm a hobbyist, and I love hand stitching, least of all because I don't have a sewing machine. I prefer hand stitching, warts and all. I've hand stitched quite a few belts and bags and projects big and small since I started doing the craft a bit more seriously.

I learnt a basic saddle stitch from my grandpa roughly 5 decades ago, and he did not know what we now regard as the "right" way. He used a scratch awl and double thread knotted in the middle and produced a tight and serviceable stitch.

To this day I'm what I can describe as an "eclectic stitcher" : I use the technique that I think I can handle with the project I'm working on. Sometimes I do as bikermutt07 describes - mark my stitch line with either a chisel or (more likely) an overstitch wheel, set up the project in my stitch clamp, pre-punch the line with my awl, put the awl down and stitch away. Other times I will lay my project flat, mark stitch line and pre-punch the entire line with the awl before I pick up and thread my needles.

But then, I have the luxury of not doing leathercraft commercially and only occasionally sell items, and realise that doing it for profit is a different ball game altogether. So I guess its up to each to develop the technique they are comfortable and capable of doing. The Stohlman technique is a proven way, trusted and practised by generations of craftsmen - but surely it should not be regarded as "the only way".

[wrz0170]

Apologize in advance for the hijack but my newb question fits in with awl work being mentioned.   I have a set of 3 and 4 mm Crimson Hide irons.  They punch through beautifully.   Makes my life easier while I learn the craft.  Not surprising, Crimson sell an awl to match their 3/4mm line.  

Would any 3mm diamond awl work or would I be married to their line when I decide to give awl work a try?  If their awl is anything like their chisels, I imagine I have nothing to worry about, but you never know! I see a lot of matching awls to go with a set of irons, etc.

Great discussion!

William

[battlemunky]

Anything that makes an acceptable shaped hole will work but getting the hole maker in the shape where it is as easy as a purpose built tool may be a bit harder. I've only heard good about Crimson Hide products. I have some old Tandy awl, a Craftool awl and a Wuta awl. I just got the Wuta awl so I can't really speak to it yet but with a few hrs work the other two work very well. One of these days I'm going to get a "good" awl and see how it goes.

But no, you don't have to get a Crimson Hide awl but it may be far easier to if your time means more to you than your initial outlay of money.

[BillinTR]

I appreciate all of the comments and suggestions. A lot of interesting information to digest.

First of all for me it is a hobby and I have no anticipation of making any money at it. As a matter of fact as a hobby it can only cost me money. Secondly for those that hinted at me possibly finding the act of holding the two needles and the awl and performing the actions of Stohlman's technique a bit awkward, that is not it at all. My manual dexterity is reasonably decent for an olde pharte. It is purely about the effort of getting my awl through the hole. The awls I have are Osbornes that I got from SLC. There is absolutely no burr to be felt anywhere. I have polished and polished right down to using an ultra fine ceramic stone I use for polishing sears on my pistols. I will continue to work with them.

As I said it is a hobby so it costs me money. And I am on a fixed income. So paying upwards of $75 to $80 for a Barry King awl isn't likely any time soon. I don't need a finely finished cocobolo handle to make an awl work. And I expect that I will here the you get what you pay for preaching. Well if you can't buy "quality" then you have to be willing to work to make it so. In Armitage's video he is sharpening an Osborne awl with a fixed point. He seems to do pretty well with it but I can't say that the awl appears to just "glide" through the leather as some seem to think it should.

I am not giving up because I have a number of things I want to do in my new leatherworking pursuits. I hope to do a fair amount of hand stitching, one way or another. I will get back to my polishing this week end although I am unsure how much better I can get these blades.

Thanks again for all the comments.