lazyd Report post Posted October 9, 2018 I have a question about my Adler K205-374. Can someone tell me why there is a groove in the bottom feed dog ahead and behind the needle? It leaves the bottom thread sticking up above the surface of the leather. I think it should be at least level or pulled into the leather a bit...??? Is there anyway to remedy that? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted October 9, 2018 Possible solution might be to change the feed dog? Are there any options without the groove available? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted October 9, 2018 (edited) this rather sounds like a tension problem or do I get you wrong? I´d lower the top tension or increase the bottom tension. Not sure what the feed dog has to do with this? Edited October 9, 2018 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted October 9, 2018 No. The groove in the feed dog was for the threads to go in. If sewing leather, you want an ungrooved feed dog to push the bottom thread back into the leather. You can either fill it in with silver solder or contact Weaver Leather in Ohio. They have ungrooved feed dogs for sewing leather for sale. They sold more of these machines than anyone else in the world. Ask for Allen Burkholder. He is in on Monday and Tuesdays. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lazyd Report post Posted October 9, 2018 I am not sure if there is a smooth feed dog available. I was hoping someone on this forum would tell me...??? I think I have the tension right... I cut a sample piece in half and the threads are crossed over about exactly in the middle. I was hoping someone would tell me what that groove in the feed dog is for... I'm building a harness and the backside of the breeching, next to the horse, has the thread sitting on top of that bead caused by the groove in the feed dog. I AM going to tighten the bottom tension a little and see if that helps. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lazyd Report post Posted October 9, 2018 13 minutes ago, shoepatcher said: No. The groove in the feed dog was for the threads to go in. If sewing leather, you want an ungrooved feed dog to push the bottom thread back into the leather. You can either fill it in with silver solder or contact Weaver Leather in Ohio. They have ungrooved feed dogs for sewing leather for sale. They sold more of these machines than anyone else in the world. Ask for Allen Burkholder. He is in on Monday and Tuesdays. glenn Thanks Glenn, I can't believe I missed that. It is in their supply catalog. Weaver is my main supplier. I bought this machine used and have a little to learn about it yet. I had some JB Weld in that groove for a while but it fell out. I'll try again. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted October 9, 2018 silver solder works better. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Nelson Report post Posted October 9, 2018 (edited) Weaver shows the feed dog in question in their 2018 wholesale catalogue for $103.00. You might check with Bob Kovar at Toledo SEwing. PM me. Ken Edited October 9, 2018 by Ken Nelson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lazyd Report post Posted October 9, 2018 2 hours ago, Ken Nelson said: Weaver shows the feed dog in question in their 2018 wholesale catalogue for $103.00. You might check with Bob Kovar at Toledo SEwing. PM me. Ken I saw the feed dog in the catalog. But I like to do things on the cheap! Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Nelson Report post Posted October 9, 2018 (edited) That means you need to get handy if you aren't already. Actually, I used to build custom spurs and bits and built a couple of presser feet back when I had my metal shop. Not hard to do at all if you have steel stock, welders, grinders, sanders, buffers, a drill press and a little time. You have to be equipped to do a good job. Metal or leather work. Just my 2 cents worth. Edited October 9, 2018 by Ken Nelson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Nelson Report post Posted October 9, 2018 Or you can turn it over, take a shoe hammer and tap them down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted October 9, 2018 Bob Kovar probably will not have the feed dog. I think those are made by Weaver as an exclusive. Silver solder still cheaper and easy to file once soldered. Just my 2 cents. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted October 10, 2018 JBWeld should work for that little job, try and roughen up the slot a bit and clean with acetone to make sure there's no oil contamination. Heck, I've got JBWeld holding a fitting inside the crankcase of my bike and it works fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R8R Report post Posted October 10, 2018 21 hours ago, dikman said: Heck, I've got JBWeld holding a fitting inside the crankcase of my bike and it works fine. People who use JB Weld on everything use JB Weld on EVERYTHING. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lazyd Report post Posted October 11, 2018 I put JB weld in it yesterday. Sewed with it today. Stitches lay a lot smoother. Not as smooth as the Landis #3 I used to have ... Thought I was updating Ha! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Sioux Saddlery Report post Posted October 11, 2018 Have you tried tightening up the tension on the bobbin case? There is a point in (over)tightening it that it actually starts to get looser. You'll never get as tight a stitch as the old stitchers, but you may be able to improve it a little more. You'll have to match any increased bottom tension by adjusting top of course. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt S Report post Posted October 12, 2018 5 hours ago, Big Sioux Saddlery said: Have you tried tightening up the tension on the bobbin case? There is a point in (over)tightening it that it actually starts to get looser. You'll never get as tight a stitch as the old stitchers, but you may be able to improve it a little more. You'll have to match any increased bottom tension by adjusting top of course. Well that's a relief -- I'd noticed this phenomenon but never having seen a reference to it, and it not fitting the normal rules of behavior, thought I was getting all confuzzled. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Sioux Saddlery Report post Posted October 12, 2018 17 hours ago, Matt S said: Well that's a relief -- I'd noticed this phenomenon but never having seen a reference to it, and it not fitting the normal rules of behavior, thought I was getting all confuzzled. No confuzzlement, true story! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
