What am I doing wrong?

[KennethM]

I been having this issue on every wallet I try.I recently bought my first sewing machine.A techsew 1460..When I see my wallets the top side looks great.However the bottom side is horrible.Especial the corner look bad on the bottom side.When I approach a corner I hand wheel it untill I get to the turning point.Leave the needle in then use the knee clutch and then rotate my work.

 

I am using tandy leather.2-3 oz..I didnt skive this leather.Using #69 thread with a size 18 needle 135x16 needle system...please help..burned about 10 wallets.I have tried different pressure feet pressure combo.New needles..nothing has helped..its always the corner and the back side of my wallets.

 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/iq6fiyji5uwcfdu/0109191541a.jpg?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ysifjlgakmb9s8w/0109191541b.jpg?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ku0bafeeqmplao1/0109191541.jpg?dl=0

[benlilly1]

This is a stab in the dark but, it happens when you hand turn the corner, so maybe it's affecting the tension? 

[KennethM]

6 minutes ago, benlilly1 said:

This is a stab in the dark but, it happens when you hand turn the corner, so maybe it's affecting the tension? 

Hmmm..maybe I'm not sure lol.Need someone smarter then me to confirm

[benlilly1]

1 minute ago, KennethM said:

Hmmm..maybe I'm not sure lol.Need someone smarter then me to confirm

Well, I noticed on my old home machine, if I did that it would make the thread loose underneath and have excess and get tangled. I'm sure someone else will chime in and help.

[Matt S]

Kenneth, are you using leather-specific needles? Ones designed for fabric have a rounded, non-sharp tip designed to part woven fibres whereas needles for leather have a cutting edge on the tip, which cuts through non-woven fibres and therefore reduces blowout on the back side. There's always a difference between the top and bottom side of a seam sewn with a closed-eye needle. Apparently needle-and-awl machines are better at this but they're not very common. I find that hammering or rubbing the seam flat helps with the appearance most of the time.

Looks like you have a few issues with tension too, either that the top tension is too low, bobbin tension too high, or that your thread isn't feeding evenly (top or bobbin thread).

As to the corner issue either your leather is shifting under the foot, or maybe your needle is deflecting (possibly due to shifting leather). Are you glueing or taping your leather before sewing? Because that can reduce layer slippage. It may be also that your foot pressure is a little high for that thickness of leather, so it's pushing the layers a bit to the side.

Just from an aesthetic POV I'd reduce the stitch length a bit with that size thread. Helps with getting the stitches to line up with corners too.

Oh and one final tip: practice on scraps not projects! Keep all your scraps, even a couple inches of sewing to check your settings can save you a lot of time and money.

[kgg]

It maybe just the angle of the photos but to me it looks like your machines stitch length is not consistent even on the straight runs. I would first remove the top thread from the needle then take a piece of paper and do a straight run of 12 stitches with the motor, measure the distance between each hole and then do a straight run of 12 stitches by hand wheeling them through, once again measure the distance between each hole. All the holes whether they are made by using the motor or by hand should be the same. If the stitch length is a little iffy it may explain why the tension problem on the bottom.

kgg

[ljk]

This is a common issue on this forum. There is 3 issues # 1 tension,  most machines release tension  by knee lift

and or by lifting lever.   You have to sew with no tension release, and you may consider after stopping pull thread

tight.   I have adjusted my tension release at the very top of its travel.  #2  I use SD1 needles seems to work with

minimum eruption on the back side of the leather.  #3  I use Merrow floss  commonly used to put edge on patches.

Available in small spools from red Rock Threads online.  This thread is all poly, strong. and is fairly thick.  It

has good shine and shows well wallets and bags.  You may not duplicate the saddle stitch but can get close.

[Techsew Ron]

17 hours ago, KennethM said:

I been having this issue on every wallet I try.I recently bought my first sewing machine.A techsew 1460..When I see my wallets the top side looks great.However the bottom side is horrible.Especial the corner look bad on the bottom side.When I approach a corner I hand wheel it untill I get to the turning point.Leave the needle in then use the knee clutch and then rotate my work.

 

I am using tandy leather.2-3 oz..I didnt skive this leather.Using #69 thread with a size 18 needle 135x16 needle system...please help..burned about 10 wallets.I have tried different pressure feet pressure combo.New needles..nothing has helped..its always the corner and the back side of my wallets.

 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/iq6fiyji5uwcfdu/0109191541a.jpg?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ysifjlgakmb9s8w/0109191541b.jpg?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ku0bafeeqmplao1/0109191541.jpg?dl=0

Hi Kenneth, I noticed on another forum you changed to a different type of presser foot that you purchased and mentioned you were having issues with it not coming 100% back down. This might be affecting your bottom tension as the tension is released when you raise the presser foot. Please send us an email to support@techsew.com and we'll follow up with some adjustments.

Ron

[jonl30]

Not that this is the issue but I was told to make sure the needle is on the upstroke before raising the feet to turn so the hook could catch the thread and not miss the stitch

[brmax]

Yes, I agree also and you picked up a good tip in that.  If your corners last stitch ends with the needle being down and after bottom center its going up. The amount can vary but try 1/4” or more to start. I feel the thread is then at a secure point to lift presser a bit to turn material. 

Is a smaller needle available or has this been considered. I understand each material has its go to size with threads. An 18&19 is my go to for 92 threads. 

Much of our time we will easily see a consistency when most of a products stitch line was sewn facing up. Its always a bit different looking when, we have to or just for convenience keep flipping over and stitching. Just something we try to pattern for even in our best stitch line. 

 

 

Good day to ya

Floyd