Sewing Machine Recommendation for Small Leather Goods?

[YSRASupply]

Hello there!  I was hoping to get some recommendations for a sewing machine from you guys... I have been hand sewing all my wallets and small leather goods since I started working with leather but that's getting a bit tiresome and I feel like I could really speed things up with a proper sewing machine and open up possibilities for new products/materials.

You can see the stuff that I make here: https://www.ysrasupply.com or here: https://www.instagram.com/ysrasupply/

Also posted a pic below to give you an idea of what I'm working with...  most of the leather I work with is 3-4 layers of 3oz leather + 1 layer of 5oz leather but I'd like to be able to sew thicker 8-10oz leather too...

 

Would you guys recommend a flat bed or cylinder arm machine? Or maybe a one that is convertible to a flat bed? I've see people post that you can do most the stuff on a flat bed that you can on a cylinder/etc so I'm really not sure which way to go...

I've look at Cobra machines as well as Juki online but am a bit overwhelmed with all the choices out there...

Can anyone recommend a good machine to get me going? and anyone know of good dealers in the Greenville, SC area? I'd prefer to deal with someone local that can help with repairs/etc if ever needed.

Lastly my budget would probably need to be less than $2k right now... if I could get one cheaper then that'd be even better but all in all I just want to make sure I get a solid machine that's somewhat easy to set up and use that will LAST.

Thanks!

Edited January 21, 2019 by YSRASupply

[Northmount]

If everything you make is flat, then a flat bed is all you need.

Have you read this post?

Tom

[aroh99]

you didn't mention what thread sizes you use. Most standard flat bed machines will take up to 138 thread max.  There are a few exceptions the Juki LU-1508H and the cobra class 4 which are rated to sew up to 207 thread. there maybe more but these are the 2 im aware of. if you sew with thicker thread you would need a bigger machine.

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, aroh99 said:

you didn't mention what thread sizes you use. Most standard flat bed machines will take up to 138 thread max.  There are a few exceptions the Juki LU-1508H and the cobra class 4 which are rated to sew up to 207 thread. there maybe more but these are the 2 im aware of. if you sew with thicker thread you would need a bigger machine.

The Cobra Class 4 can sew with up to #415 thread. #207 is towards its lower end. The Juki that sews with up to #207 is the LU-1508NH

[Wizcrafts]

I would sew these wallets on a flat bed walking foot machine. They don't require any thread larger than #92, or maybe #138 bonded nylon.

[ScoobyNewbie]

I played with the new Stitchmaster from Tandy today. It was lovely. I used it to make that little pressure coin purse from Projects by Al Stohlman. The first one was sad but tight, the second one was loose,, but prettier. I had to take a stitch in at the back to make it stay closed. Then I mucked them both up by trying to use the embosser on them.

But the machine was easy to set up, use and the speed was very controllable. Fast when I wanted it. Slow when I got scered. And the toe was very easy to work around for tight stitch corners. 

[YSRASupply]

Thanks for the replies!  I did forget to mention thread size... I'm unfamiliar with thread sizing for sewing machines but right now I typically use thinner thread (around 0.45mm similar to Lin Cable 632) and could see myself maybe going up to 0.6mm thread on certain projects... that being said, I'd want a machine that will give me some versatility with thread sizing.

Thanks again!

[Wizcrafts]

39 minutes ago, YSRASupply said:

Thanks for the replies!  I did forget to mention thread size... I'm unfamiliar with thread sizing for sewing machines but right now I typically use thinner thread (around 0.45mm similar to Lin Cable 632) and could see myself maybe going up to 0.6mm thread on certain projects... that being said, I'd want a machine that will give me some versatility with thread sizing.

Thanks again!

According to this thread and needle chart, 0.6mm is the slightly bigger than #277 (T270) and slightly thinner than #346 bonded nylon thread. Let's call it imaginary T300. You will need a holster/harness stitcher that can use #25 and #26 needles to sew that thickness of thread. The hook and shuttle will be around 2.5" or more in diameter. The least machine I know of that can handle this thread and needle combination is the ancient Singer 132k6 (a buffing wheel stitcher). The next step up is the GA5 type machines (e.g., CB2500 and the Techsew 3650HD), then 441 clones like the CB3200, the Cobra Class 3,).

That takes care of the machine problem. But wait: these are lockstitch machines. When they form a stitch the top and bottom threads overlap inside the material. the thicker the thread, the larger the "knots" formed by the overlap. In the case of #277 thread (0.586mm)  the knots are about 1.5x the thread diameter. It will take approximately 3/16 inch of leather to completely hide the knots with #277 thread. If you were to use #138 in the bobbin, you'd still need at least 1/8 inch of leather to bury the knots.

[arz]

We make similar items as well as some bags.

When we hand stitch we use Lin Cable 532. The Serafil M20 (#135) thread is the closest diameter to 532 that I could find. This is when you see it in person and sew it. It is about 0.57mm according to my eye and placing the threads side by side. The M30 (#96) equals about 632. The Serafil is a poly thread and "seems" larger than the Lin Cable.

You will be happy with #138 thread coming from a 532/632 hand stitch thread.

We bought an Adler 69 and it is working fine for our items. A 441 machine would be too large for our wallets/flat items, max of 6mm (15oz ?) of leather.  If you like the thick, rustic style with say 332 thread then you will need a heavy duty machine (441 etc).

-Adam

Edited January 22, 2019 by arz

[chrisash]

Great post Wiz, something many would never consider