Types of seams?

[Cal1]

Hey Guys, I'm new to the site and new to Leather.  My head is spinning after trying to find post in over 90,000 post went 50 pages in and back to 2012 on Motorcycles and Bike gear forum and also How do I do that forum and could not find anything about seams?  I am taking a different approach to making my motorcycle seat and sissy bar and grip covers. I am not carving or dyeing no lacing just or fancy stitching that shows; just want smooth leather look.  Using 4 ounce Horween believe it is combo tanned "Chromexcel".  I need to hand sew as I have no machine. After making a pattern how much excess material should I leave and how or what do you do with excess part of seam? Not using any piping either so I will  put smooth leather against each other and sew  inside out then turn right side in. I  may use small belt style buckle to tighten and secure but will be able to remove leather covers. Also should I use some type of lining or is it better to keep back side of leather accessible for oiling or waxing?  Thanks Cal Mercer, Mercer PA 16148

[Grumpymann]

Not sure how to do it, but if it were me. I would skive down to half the thickness on both sides, and Stitch that way by overlapping one over the other.

[Cal1]

Thanks Grumpymann; I had to look that up on you tube "Skiving"  I don't know with the leather being so supple; but I'll do a test piece first.

[Dwight]

Once you get your pattern, . . . make a test cover with fabric backed vinyl purchased at JoAnn fabric.  Get their 50% off coupon off Google, . . .  buy a yard of it, . . . it'll be 36 by 48, . . . so you'll have plenty enough to mess with.

Leave 3/8 to 1/2 inch extra, . . . all the way around, . . . take a pair of dividers and mark that all the way around the edges of the pieces.  Then, . . . staying about 1/16 of an inch away from your scored line, . . . coat each piece with Weldwood Contact Cement, . . . a thin coat is adequate.  

When the cement dries, . . . (I use a heat gun to make it happen a lot faster), . . . slowly and carefully put the edges together, . . . and re-mark them now in the inside, . . . and sew that line.  You can use a sewing machine, . . . with carpet thread, . . . also bought at JoAnn's, . . . and a lot of machines will do that.  I had a Brother machine I bought at a yard sale for $25 that would sew that all day.

The seam will then need to be laid over so that it all points down toward the pavement.

Have fun, . . . show us pics when it's done.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Cal1]

Thank you for the help Dwight.  The ladies at Joann Fabric's are going to love me. lol

[Dwight]

Sometimes when I walk in there, . . . I think the cash register does a little dance, . . . "He's Baaaaaaaccckkkkkk".

May God bless,

Dwight

[chrisash]

If you dont mind the stitching showing , you can use the stitching used by high end car makers around the steering wheel, very strong and neat design

 

[Cal1]

Thanks for the thought Chris, but I am looking for just the opposite, the threads not showing. But I have learned a lot from everyone here and the website I t appears I'll be needing to buy a leather sewing machine! 

[Northmount]

@Cal1 Moved to leather sewing

Tom

[Mark842]

8 hours ago, Cal1 said:

Thanks for the thought Chris, but I am looking for just the opposite, the threads not showing. But I have learned a lot from everyone here and the website I t appears I'll be needing to buy a leather sewing machine! 

If you do decide to get a sewing machine I would recommend taking a look at this gents videos. Specifically hunt up how to do  french seams. He several videos on motorcycle seats and a ton on upholstery basics and his videos are excellent. Enjoy!

[Cal1]

Thanks Mark, Will do.

[blue duck]

Would just like to add a note on skiving. Although the leather itself is probably soft enough to make your seam, the problem becomes the bulk of the two layers of leather once turned. It will leave a rather significant lump. By reducing the thickness you will make a much more finished looking project. Another help is to hammer the seam down [in the direction you want it to lay] once sewn and turned. As you mentioned do a test. Where you will really notice it is at the corners. You can also clip a series of V's  going around the corner and it will lay much better. i.e. V V V V V  with the point close, but not touching your seam

[Evo160K]

On Monday, January 28, 2019 at 3:22 PM, Dwight said:

Once you get your pattern, . . . make a test cover with fabric backed vinyl purchased at JoAnn fabric.  Get their 50% off coupon off Google, . . .  buy a yard of it, . . . it'll be 36 by 48, . . . so you'll have plenty enough to mess with.

Leave 3/8 to 1/2 inch extra, . . . all the way around, . . . take a pair of dividers and mark that all the way around the edges of the pieces.  Then, . . . staying about 1/16 of an inch away from your scored line, . . . coat each piece with Weldwood Contact Cement, . . . a thin coat is adequate.

When the cement dries, . . . (I use a heat gun to make it happen a lot faster), . . . slowly and carefully put the edges together, . . . and re-mark them now in the inside, . . . and sew that line.  You can use a sewing machine, . . . with carpet thread, . . . also bought at JoAnn's, . . . and a lot of machines will do that.  I had a Brother machine I bought at a yard sale for $25 that would sew that all day.

The seam will then need to be laid over so that it all points down toward the pavement.

Have fun, . . . show us pics when it's done.

May God bless,

Dwight

It's definitely better if the seam/material lays in such a way it will facilitate rain water to flow off (like roof shingles), otherwise it will "pool", soak through the seam/needle holes and wet the inside.  I use a layer of strong, plastic film just under the cover as a moisture barrier.  I  started doing that after I noticed Harley had done it on my oem seat.

Exposed stitches look good on auto seat covers; however, on motorcycle seat covers, they can become quite abrasive after riding for a while.

Edited February 2, 2019 by Evo160K