Members Spyros Posted August 10, 2020 Members Report Posted August 10, 2020 Having the oval punch is one thing. Keeping the oval holes in a straight line, evenly spaced and all pointed in the same direction is a whole other kettle of fish LOL Quote
Members jcuk Posted August 10, 2020 Members Report Posted August 10, 2020 16 hours ago, Spyros said: Having the oval punch is one thing. Keeping the oval holes in a straight line, evenly spaced and all pointed in the same direction is a whole other kettle of fish LOL Ι will kinda go against the flow here, and I know many people won't agree with me, but don't buy more tools. Trust your hand and your eye, and if you don't, keep practicing until you do. It will give you confidence to do many things throughout this (and any) craft and it will often get you out of tight spots. I firmly believe our hand-eye coordination is the most important tool and just like any other tool it also needs honing from time to time. By all means try different things if it's easy and practical to do so but keep in mind that the perfect cutter might actually not exist Thats the rule with most leather working hand tools, try not to over think things, being a southpaw i have a lot of tools that are right handed so took a lot of practice and wasted a lot of leather along the way but sometimes that the nature of the beast. Hope this helps JCUK Quote
Members Danne Posted August 10, 2020 Members Report Posted August 10, 2020 (edited) 19 hours ago, Spyros said: Having the oval punch is one thing. Keeping the oval holes in a straight line, evenly spaced and all pointed in the same direction is a whole other kettle of fish LOL It's a simple solution for that. Print a template (Or draw a template on paper) punch the holes in the paper template. Then you can align it to your belt. push down your hole punch by hand to make an impression, remove template and punch holes. Just a quick drawing (not to scale) just to show how I mean. I don't make belts, but watch straps. And when I see those multi hole punches from Ksblade and such, if I made a lot of straps it would be nice to have some of them. But I think it's also important to be able to do the same things without special tools, because what to do you when you get that order with a hole size or distance between holes that doesn't match up with your "multi punch" ? The same with strap points. Yes it can be quick and nice to have a strap end punch, but I also think it's important to learn how to cut that point by hand. Edited August 10, 2020 by Danne Quote
Trox Posted August 10, 2020 Report Posted August 10, 2020 On 2/2/2019 at 2:54 AM, GregS said: Hi guys. Really new to leather craft. One of my near future projects is going to be a belt. I've watched many YouTube videos. It looks like the way to go is oval punches. I have round hole punches and not really sure that I'll make use of oval punches in the near future. I know that part of the fun of a new hobby is getting all the tools. But being new, I'd rather not spend the money on tools that I may not use any time soon. Instead of an oval punch, how much of an overlap can I have for round punches in place of an oval? The various pics sort of look like it is a tear drop shape. Some buckles will need oval holes, it will look better and keep the holes smaller. You would need a much larger round hole for the same job. That might make a strap weaker and look ugly. However, in most cases you will get away with a round hole. There are cheap roller punch pliers with oval punches available. You can also buy cheap oval punches, but they will not last very long and some of them makes ugly holes too. I've tried a few types of today's oval punches. You can be lucky to find some old ones in good condition otherwise there are very few new good ones. The new Blanchard's aren't good, small sizes are to soft steel. There are inexpensive Dixon copies, they look like they have just pressed a round punch to a oval shape...bad outcome. I've settled with the Weaver ones. They are a little on the fat side and the flat indicators on the handle isn't oriented correct to ovals long side. I expect that is a mistake to one or two of mine because the rest of the set are correct. Anyway, good punches are a expensive investment. You can use something cheap while you collect the good one over time. Tor Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members Spyros Posted August 10, 2020 Members Report Posted August 10, 2020 4 hours ago, jcuk said: Ι will kinda go against the flow here, and I know many people won't agree with me, but don't buy more tools. Trust your hand and your eye, and if you don't, keep practicing until you do. It will give you confidence to do many things throughout this (and any) craft and it will often get you out of tight spots. I firmly believe our hand-eye coordination is the most important tool and just like any other tool it also needs honing from time to time. By all means try different things if it's easy and practical to do so but keep in mind that the perfect cutter might actually not exist Thats the rule with most leather working hand tools, try not to over think things, being a southpaw i have a lot of tools that are right handed so took a lot of practice and wasted a lot of leather along the way but sometimes that the nature of the beast. Hope this helps JCUK I did say it didn't I I don't know what it is about holes but I really suck at making them, whether it's leather, wood, metal, whatever. Worse thing about it is they usually come at the end of the project... here'a a nice brass hammer I made recently LOL Quote
Trox Posted August 11, 2020 Report Posted August 11, 2020 22 hours ago, Spyros said: I did say it didn't I I don't know what it is about holes but I really suck at making them, whether it's leather, wood, metal, whatever. Worse thing about it is they usually come at the end of the project... here'a a nice brass hammer I made recently LOL Nice hammer, what are those rivet's for? Is there a tang inside going all the way to the back of the handle? On 2/2/2019 at 2:54 AM, GregS said: Hi guys. Really new to leather craft. One of my near future projects is going to be a belt. I've watched many YouTube videos. It looks like the way to go is oval punches. I have round hole punches and not really sure that I'll make use of oval punches in the near future. I know that part of the fun of a new hobby is getting all the tools. But being new, I'd rather not spend the money on tools that I may not use any time soon. Instead of an oval punch, how much of an overlap can I have for round punches in place of an oval? The various pics sort of look like it is a tear drop shape. Some buckles will need oval holes, it will look better and keep the holes smaller. You would need a much larger round hole for the same job. That might make a strap weaker and look ugly. However, in most cases you will get away with a round hole. There are cheap roller punch pliers with oval punches available. You can also buy cheap oval punches, but they will not last very long and some of them makes ugly holes too. I've tried a few types of today's oval punches. You can be lucky to find some old ones in good condition otherwise there are very few new good ones. The new Blanchard's aren't good, small sizes are to soft steel. There are inexpensive Dixon copies, they look like they have just pressed a round punch to a oval shape...bad outcome. I've settled with the Weaver ones. They are a little on the fat side and the flat indicators on the handle isn't oriented correct to ovals long side. I expect that is a mistake to one or two of mine because the rest of the set are correct. Anyway, good punches are a expensive investment. You can use something cheap while you collect the good one over time. Tor Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
CFM Hardrada Posted August 11, 2020 CFM Report Posted August 11, 2020 23 hours ago, Trox said: Some buckles will need oval holes, it will look better and keep the holes smaller. The converse is also true. I once had a client who commissioned a belt for a buckle he had had made years ago: He wanted Chicago screws as fasteners for the buckle/loop and OVAL holes. The prong on the buckle, however, was totally cylindrical and it was way loose with oval holes. So, I ended up punching round holes in the end and they were a snug fit. Quote
CFM Hardrada Posted August 11, 2020 CFM Report Posted August 11, 2020 On 8/10/2020 at 2:20 PM, Danne said: It's a simple solution for that. Print a template (Or draw a template on paper) punch the holes in the paper template. Then you can align it to your belt. push down your hole punch by hand to make an impression, remove template and punch holes. Just a quick drawing (not to scale) just to show how I mean. I don't make belts, but watch straps. And when I see those multi hole punches from Ksblade and such, if I made a lot of straps it would be nice to have some of them. But I think it's also important to be able to do the same things without special tools, because what to do you when you get that order with a hole size or distance between holes that doesn't match up with your "multi punch" ? The same with strap points. Yes it can be quick and nice to have a strap end punch, but I also think it's important to learn how to cut that point by hand. Totally agree. I failed miserably with that approach, though. I made a template from 3 oz English bridle and still got the holes crooked. These punches have no indexes, and at such diameters are very difficult to align properly. Suggetions are appreciated. Quote
CFM Frodo Posted August 11, 2020 CFM Report Posted August 11, 2020 I have started using 1/4'' grommets .{depending on the type buckle] This is my Dogs collar, . And YES, the hole is off, Biscuit told me she does not want to be seen in public with her collar messed up I think its a dog thing Quote Singer 66, Chi Chi Patcher, Rex 26-188, singer 29k62 , 2-needles D.C.F.M
Members Danne Posted August 11, 2020 Members Report Posted August 11, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Hardrada said: Totally agree. I failed miserably with that approach, though. I made a template from 3 oz English bridle and still got the holes crooked. These punches have no indexes, and at such diameters are very difficult to align properly. Suggetions are appreciated. I would say it's better to do the template with paper. I usually use laser photo paper (A little more durable and thicker) And when you have made the holes in the template, align it carefully, and just push down your hole punch with your hands to leave an impression in the leather, and when you remove your template it's easy to align. If you make a line in the middle you can use a let's say 20mm for all templates and align it to the middle of the belt with a ruler/caliper/wingdiver and on a belt you can put some weights on the template when you mark through your template. I show you an example on a test piece. This is relatively thin leather so no room for large weights so used a small hammer, but no problem just holding it down. Those holes are perfectly centered. Holes aren't that nice though, night here in Europe so didn't want to wake up neighbours so pushed the punch through. I don't have any oval punches, but it will work fine with oval punches too, because when you make the impression you feel when your punch is in the correct place and you punch your hole. Edited August 11, 2020 by Danne Quote
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