jimi Report post Posted July 6, 2020 On 7/3/2020 at 9:26 PM, 8dsf said: Have you noticed any runout on your 3d printed pulley ? Hi Adam, I think Cura is playing tricks on you again??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt S Report post Posted July 6, 2020 Okay, you guys have twisted my arm and I'm dipping my toe into additive machining! I've just ordered an Elegoo Mars. It's a little different to most 3D printers as it prints with resin rather than filament. Lets of pros and cons but I was impressed with the finish quality of the prints and how (relatively) plug-and-play it seems to be. I've got a good few ideas what I want to make, even at the relatively tiny 4x6x2.5" build volume, and it'll let me know if I want to invest time and money into a larger printer in the future. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8dsf Report post Posted July 6, 2020 37 minutes ago, Matt S said: Okay, you guys have twisted my arm and I'm dipping my toe into additive machining! I've just ordered an Elegoo Mars. It's a little different to most 3D printers as it prints with resin rather than filament. Lets of pros and cons but I was impressed with the finish quality of the prints and how (relatively) plug-and-play it seems to be. I've got a good few ideas what I want to make, even at the relatively tiny 4x6x2.5" build volume, and it'll let me know if I want to invest time and money into a larger printer in the future. Matt, the SLA (UV curing) for sure will give you a better finish when compared to our classic FDP but to get the strength it will get expensive. I am not following what resin is best but last time when I did check it was more than 50usd on aliexpress for some resin that could be used for working elements. I could be wrong but for sure guys here can comment on this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Matt S said: Okay, you guys have twisted my arm and I'm dipping my toe into additive machining! I've just ordered an Elegoo Mars Hey Matt, you will be a 3d nerd in no time nice one, I am sure you will have fun making things for your projects and whatever. I was thinking of jumping to a Elegoo type also for doing the Reel to Reel plugs as i am looking for a better finish but in the end i am still with the filament. So i will be listening to hear how it goes with yours. What i did read about is seemingly the LCD chucks a duckie every XXXX hours and you have to change them??? not sure if this is true or not?? I am almost sure you will be doing some custom stamps?? as 8dsf said the detail is much better. Edited July 6, 2020 by jimi Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt S Report post Posted July 6, 2020 1 hour ago, 8dsf said: Matt, the SLA (UV curing) for sure will give you a better finish when compared to our classic FDP but to get the strength it will get expensive. I am not following what resin is best but last time when I did check it was more than 50usd on aliexpress for some resin that could be used for working elements. I could be wrong but for sure guys here can comment on this. For sure the resin's a little brittler than filament, and more expensive weight-for-weight. I believe that the regular resin (£40/kg) is roughly equivalent to cheap PLA filament in overall strength and the tough resin (£50/kg) somewhere in between PLA and ABS filament. The toughest readily available 3D resin (£90/kg) is good enough to make a functional socket wrench or rimfire sound suppressor, with appropriate design. The material price difference is not such a huge deal to me if the machine is less buggy and needs less fannying about with than the similarly priced FDM machines. As far as functional strength we'll see just how tough it is -- I have a sneaking suspicion that, like most materials, the key is understanding the material and designing with it in mind (and not trying to make everything under the sun out of one material!). I'm not expecting to print drive sprockets or belt buckles or anything like that with my machine however I hope the stuff to be strong enough for quickly knocking up jigs and fixtures, with easy adjustment/customisation. To me that'd be worth the price of the machine alone. There's also the usefulness of being able to try out iterative designs for fit (with good dimensional accuracy) before having them machined or cast in more suitable materials. Plus the range of technical resins now available, including ones specifically designed for lost resin casting, flexible resins, and some even designed for printing heat-resistant casting moulds for short production runs 15 minutes ago, jimi said: Hey Matt, you will be a 3d nerd in no time nice one, I am sure you will have fun making things for your projects and whatever. I was thinking of jumping to a Elegoo type also for doing the Reel to Reel plugs as i am looking for a better finish but in the end i am still with the filament. So i will be listening to hear how it goes with yours. What i did read about is seemingly the LCD chucks a duckie every XXXX hours and you have to change them??? not sure if this is true or not?? I am almost sure you will be doing some custom stamps?? as 8dsf said the detail is much better. I don't doubt it Jimi, it will add another badge to the range of nerds that I am! Both technologies have their strengths and weaknesses. To me the limited choice of resins and small build volume are the biggest drawbacks for SLA printers. The general opinion is that most users will end up running both a resin and filament printer, which sounds like something I would do! The LCDs are limited life parts but they're not hugely expensive to replace (about £30). Yes I'll try some stamps -- the resin will give a better finish I think, but I don't do much "wet" stamping so it would be more for design proofing before getting metal stamps made up that can handle heat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
imawalkingfoot Report post Posted July 12, 2020 This is a game changer for DIY! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted November 25, 2020 Hi all Adam gave me his 40 mm STL file and after many problems with warping the base, I eventually managed to get one made of Taulman 230 Nylon which turned out OK and the inside dia is 13.1 mm measured on one of those cheap micrometer scale things The good news is it only took 5 metres of filament so if people are interested they should be able to buy a cheap 10 meter sample, so save money on a whole roll The whole process took 6 hours as after the initial problems I modified Cora to run very slow, no fan and 100% infill of lines, I can send the Cura profile if anyone wants it, also used heated bed 45 deg and lots of PVA on the bed to stop the warping. Feel i can definitely increase the speed a lot from 25 to maybe 40 or 50 and reduce timescale a lot My JK513 should arrive tomorrow or Friday so will test over the weekend, but feels very strong Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted November 25, 2020 Chris, why not just post the file in the 3D section? Then it's there for anyone who wants it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted November 25, 2020 OK inserted in 3D Forum as Cura File, I will leave it to Adam to copy the Pulley file over as he originated it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted November 26, 2020 Today's test is making a 1.8 or 1.5 mm sleeve in nylon, don't hold much hope but worth a try Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted November 26, 2020 Ok this came out better than i thought though have not tested it yet used 1/d 13,2 mm o/d 14.8 mm and 5,2 mm key slot all in Nylon taulman 230 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
