Pfaff 335, Adler 69 type Cylinder arm caps.

[RockyAussie]

I have been doing a few projects recently that need a very small cylinder machine to enable me to get into the tight corners and such. This is still a bit of a work in progress but so far the results have been good. A few more tweaks and they should be excellent. I have a 335 Pfaff , 69 Adler, Tk 335 Elizabeth and a 331 Pfaff that I have finished of some new cylinder caps for. After doing some measurements and tests the width of the caps have now been reduced from 46.6mm down to 41.4mm. ( a bit under 1/4"). The depth has reduced a couple of mm and the length a couple as well. NOTE: except for the Pfaff 331 which has a little more room for reductions, all of the caps fitted and they are all the smaller bobbin variety.

The first picture shows 3 of the 4 caps just finished as against the ones being replaced.

This is the TK335  Elizabeth cylinder showing some comparisons.

This one below shows the Adler 69 fitted well

This one below on my favourite Pfaff 331machine (needle and dog foot feed and no pesky walking foot)

Here are a couple of samples of work where this kind of reduction comes in handy. I do like to be able to stitch around a product fully and try to design for this and the sewing machines capability.

Here I think the difference shows fairly well

If any of you have printers and one of these style machines let me know and I will get you a stl file if you want it.

If you have one of these machines and are one of my followers and do not have a printer... PM me if you would like one.

I know the colour is awful and I could have done them in a metalic silver colour but at least they are easy to find now.

Brian

 

 

[dikman]

Mate, you never cease to amaze me! I wouldn't mind the Pfaff 335 version as my cap has been modified slightly so a spare would be nice.

[RockyAussie]

54 minutes ago, dikman said:

Mate, you never cease to amaze me! I wouldn't mind the Pfaff 335 version as my cap has been modified slightly so a spare would be nice.

File sent in PM .

[dikman]

And received. Ta very much.

[dikman]

Done. Looks much neater than the original (well, my original, at least).

 

[Constabulary]

If someone needs an original cap - I still have 2 of them

[dikman]

They look nicer than mine - but the plastic one will be fine, it cost me almost nothing to make and I can easily make another if I need to.

[RockyAussie]

19 hours ago, dikman said:

Done. Looks much neater than the original (well, my original, at least).

 

WOW that was quick. Looks better than my yellow coloured ones. I am hoping that a few of the other members that have clones of these machines will try them out for fitting. I would like to have a list of the various machines clones etc that it will fit onto to advise everyone. Also if there are any negatives as to where the cap may be improved. For 27 cents of filament electricity included. its not that big a risk really. So far mine have tested in use well and I will do a few more  little changes once I am confident it will fit a wide range of other clones as well. I am thinking of putting this thread into the sewing machine section in order to get some more feedback. Thanks for the feed back.

Brian

[Scoutmom103]

I thought the yellow might be to match the Ducky in your profile pic 

[RockyAussie]

6 minutes ago, Scoutmom103 said:

I thought the yellow might be to match the Ducky in your profile pic 

Ha Ha good one.... I started using this colour awhile back due to my super messy workbenches and just old age and bad memory. I think I spend more time looking for something than I do making stuff sometimes these days........What was i going to say.......Ogh well it'll be there somewhere.

[Scoutmom103]

I so get that.    If I set down my coffee cup to deal with the dogs, I have to find it again since it's not in the usually spot.

 

[dikman]

Ah, so it's not just me......

Brian, you may notice that my cap seems to have pushed in a bit further than yours (not that it makes any difference) so you could probably make it about 3mm longer, I guess?

[Rockoboy]

On ‎3‎/‎22‎/‎2019 at 6:44 AM, RockyAussie said:

I am hoping that a few of the other members that have clones of these machines will try them out for fitting.

What dimension or details do you need to produce a cap for a specific machine? Mine is a  PROTEK TY8B, which is clone of a 227r cylinder arm.

Edited March 23, 2019 by Rockoboy

[plinkercases]

I have a Pfaff 335 but no 3D printing capability.... could I buy one from you and you post it to Canada?

[dikman]

Do you know anyone with a 3D printer? It's not a very big print job for someone to do. Even my local library has one.

[plinkercases]

I don't actually. There used to be a 3D print shop nearby but it closed.... suppose i could hunt around for one.... i see what i can find tonight.

[dikman]

You could check 3D printer forums too? Might find someone in your area that could do it and probably be cheaper than shipping from here to Canada (shipping costs from Australia to anywhere are notoriously high!).

[RockyAussie]

13 hours ago, plinkercases said:

I have a Pfaff 335 but no 3D printing capability.... could I buy one from you and you post it to Canada?

I would be happy to send you one if your happy to cover the postage. I will have to check out what that is and how to best package it. PM me your details if you like. Please check that it is the smaller bobbin model. The cap diameter should be at present around 46mm not 50mm. I am just taking a stab in the dark but I think the postage is likely to be around 20 to $25.00 au. What brand and type of zippers do you you use if any? I am just thinking that a box for the cap would be able to hold a whole lot more like the zipper guides for no extra postage cost .

[RockyAussie]

On 3/22/2019 at 2:10 PM, dikman said:

Ah, so it's not just me......

Brian, you may notice that my cap seems to have pushed in a bit further than yours (not that it makes any difference) so you could probably make it about 3mm longer, I guess?

Yeah it sits in on my 335 a fair way as well but still cleared everything alright so I thought that being shorter would just give even better clearance away from gusset walls and such. It is very easy to make a longer if you want in Curra as you can just add some extra percentage in the direction you want. Likewise if your printer prints a little looser than mine and you wanted the fit a little tighter you can reprint at say 99%+ - over all in the Curra scale. Let me know if you need any instructions on this procedure.

[RockyAussie]

22 hours ago, Rockoboy said:

What dimension or details do you need to produce a cap for a specific machine? Mine is a  PROTEK TY8B, which is clone of a 227r cylinder arm.

Mate I would love to try and help you there but I don't have one of this style of machine and from the little i have found online so far it looks that it can not be thinned down much. The only area I can see potential is down on the bottom appears to have room for some chamfering but without seeing I can not be sure. If you want to take that cap off and post a few pictures here it would help to decide if its worth giving it a try. So far this is the only picture I can find and as you see there is a fair bit missing. At a guess I would say that the cap is round and it may be possible to taper back until you are near the gear section. I will ask around and see if anyone local has anything similar.

[dikman]

1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

Let me know if you need any instructions on this procedure.

I'm trying hard not to feel insulted...... I might not have mastered creating 3D objects but the slicer programme is fine (I've made enough mistakes to suss it out!).

Over the years I've realised that the initial design of something is not my strongpoint, but I'm very good at modifying/changing/adapting things once the hard work has been done (by someone else ). That's why I'm in awe at the relative ease with which you churn out these things!!! (And it's why I like thingiverse).

[Rockoboy]

1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

this is the only picture I can find

I will take some pics and make some measurements and get back to you. I can see a couple examples where a smaller cup would be a definite advantage.

[RockyAussie]

1 minute ago, Rockoboy said:

I will take some pics and make some measurements and get back to you. I can see a couple examples where a smaller cup would be a definite advantage.

I look forward to seeing them and helping if possible.

 

10 minutes ago, dikman said:

I'm trying hard not to feel insulted...... I might not have mastered creating 3D objects but the slicer programme is fine (I've made enough mistakes to suss it out!).

Sorry mate, I suspected you wouldn't have any probs with that and look forward to any help if needed in scaling in the slicer program for any who may request it. I do have slicer but got a bit disappointed when a couple of prints looked like they would work on the screen but did not come out as expected. Once I get used to a program and how it works I tend to stick with it often to some disadvantage. Question..... On the cap you printed does it clear the hook/shuttle stuff alright? It does on mine but I run my filament at 1.74mm and hot in order to extrude a bit heavy and this gives excellent bonding together but some times things come out a bit on the larger side.

[dikman]

I haven't actually tried it working so I'll have a look tomorrow.

[Trox]

Nice! I heard you can smooth the surface of the ABS plastic with aceton, does it work