Do-it-all machine

[CoteCraftworks]

I’m ready to move up to a sewing machine.  Been hand stitching for years.  I’m looking at Cobra machines but I need some advice.  I can only afford one machine so I want to get the right one.  I make small bags and cases, wallets including interiors, journal covers and messenger bags and belts/strapless.  I’m hoping to spend around $2,000 or less.  Should I be looking at a post machine or flat table like the class 18 or 20?

Edited March 23, 2019 by CoteCraftworks

[mikesc]

My advice..get a cylinder machine ( with an attachable table )..Cobra I don't know..but I think that the 3200 would do what you need..
Those who own one will be along to offer their advice / reviews of the actual machine..

[garypl]

I agree with Mike - get a cylinder arm machine like the Cowboy 3200 with an optional table and it will cover all of the items you described.  I have the table for my CB4500 and rarely use it.  Call Bob Kovar at Toledo Sewing and he will fix you up with the right machine.

Gary

[bikermutt07]

I don't think Cobra produces a comp for the 3200. 

The 3200 has a half inch lift and a sweet spot around 207/277 thread.

It can totally run 138 up to 346 thread.

So, it has a nice middle range. Everything you mentioned can be done on the 3200.

The Cobra class three is comparable to the cowboy 3500. I'm thinking 7/8 lift?

That's gonna be above your capacity needs and price range though.

Any large thread change is gonna take some adjustments, that's just the way it is. 

And even the 3200 has it's limitations on small things. The pressure on the presser foot is not as aggressive as the class 3 and 3500, but is still pretty stout. Not to mention a fairly large opening in the needle plate for the feed dog. This can add to the difficulty level in sewing small items.

I have a 3200 that I am trying to get accustomed to. It seems to be a great machine, but I'm still wary of the learning curve on things I want people to see.

Another machine to consider is the cowboy cb341. It is a little more on the delicate side of the small stuff, but has a 3/8 lift and can run up to 207 thread. You will spend a little more on this machine. And will probably have little luck finding one used.

[RockyAussie]

10 hours ago, CoteCraftworks said:

 I make small bags and cases, wallets including interiors, journal covers and messenger bags and belts/strapless.

There are very different styles of wallets and small bags and I would urge you to post a couple of pictures of the style of products you want to produce. The larger machines mentioned above could easily be a disaster. If you are working on thicknesses above 3mm (1/8") Veg etc then a larger machine as mentioned may suffice. Keep in mind that leather point needles for these machines are not available in the smaller sizes below 160 and that can be a problem. 95% of the stitched product on my Wild Harry website in the link below can be done on a small cylinder arm machine like a Pfaff 335 or one of its clones. The pictures below show product that is done on a 335 style machine. The wallet shown would be next to impossible on one of the above mentioned 3200,3500 or CB 4500 machines. @bikermutt07 advice on the cowboy cb341 sounds to me a more realistic starting point.

[Wizcrafts]

I agree that a lesser capacity cylinder arm machine will be better for bags and wallets, as well as most belts. A standard walking foot machine can usually sew across 3/8 inch of not too dense leather, with #138 thread or less. The less becomes important if you sew thin pieces, like wallet interiors, garments, flaps for bags, vests, zippers, etc. 

For instance, a Cowboy CB227R is a clone of a Consew 227R, which is an advanced clone of a Singer 153w101 or 103. These machines normally take the same medium capacity bobbin used in the venerable Singer 111w155 (G style bobbin). They mostly all use the same standard walking foot system 135x16 (chisel or diamond leather point) and 135x17 (rounded cloth point) needles sold everywhere industrial sewing machines and needles are sold. Best of all, the aforementioned Cowboy 227R has an optional table attachment listed in the right sidebar specs. A machine like this can sew all your light to medium work, but not holsters, weight belts or heavy horse tack.

IHTH

[bikermutt07]

I feel more educated now. Thanks @Wizcrafts and @RockyAussie.

[Colt W Knight]

I second Wiz's response, the Consew 227 or similar machines would be great for bags, wallets, and belts. 

 

[CoteCraftworks]

I appreciate all of the great responses.  I'm attaching a pic representing some of my work.  I do have a Janome machine that can handle very light weight leather.  I can use that for my wallet interiors.  I haven't used it for that because I hand sew.  With that in mind I'm thinking the CB3200 might be a good choice.  The Dopp kit below is 8-9oz with 5-6oz soft top.

[garypl]

Those are nice looking Dopp kits!  Did you use a template/plan or design yourself?

Gary

[luxuryluke]

Those are beautiful bags. Totally agree: cylinder arm/bed. 

The advice on this forum is excellent. I Just arrived here one month ago from hand stitching and had a lot of the same concerns.  I picked up a used cylinder arm and it’s nearly everything I hoped. But regular leather machines use much thinner threads than hand stitching. Unfortunately the machines that appear to be referred to as Stitchers are the only comparable machines to the thick stitching of handstitched/saddle stitched items. It seams the Cobra and Cowboy machines have this arena handled, but they were more money than I wanted to spend for my first machine. I’ll be working up to them for sure. 

Good luck and share what you find!

[dikman]

Don't forget that hand stitching thinner materials with relatively large thread is easy but machine stitching such items is not!