Need part for Chinese patcher

[SilverForgeStudio]

MikeSC beat me to it- take a piece of 1/8 inch flat bar (scrap bin at my local recycler- or a small piece from any Big Box DIY store) All you need is a few inches/cm of MILD or COLD ROLLED steel (CRS)

1. measure center to center for holes- mark and centerpunch (so your drill wont drift)
2. drill one hole same size as lower pin on one end (make sure to drill 1/8 to 1/4 inch from edge for clearance of rod/arm in circular motion) 
3. drill one hole same size as upper bolt hole on other end. Mark which end is the upper
4. got a plumbers torch or propane torch or access to one? Great- get it (see next step)
5. Wear gloves- and take 2 pair of pliers (you already are wearing your safety glasses- right?) and HEAT MIDDLE OF THE BAR TO CHERRY RED
6. Twist the LOWER part 90 degrees to the upper about 2/3 the way down the bar (you need clearance for the drive arm)
7. quench in water, beer, wine, champagne- your medium of choice (if its CRS or mild steel it wont get hard)
8. Polish up, admire your new engineering skillset
9. Install and enjoy (You may need to tweak it some to stay on the lower bearing- get creative... Milliput?)

Hope this helps

Edited April 24, 2019 by SilverForgeStudio
added a step

[SilverForgeStudio]

And Cast Iron is a crappy metal for this arm I agree with Mike!

[mikesc]

Ha!! :))) Milliput :)).."Gaffa ( "Duct Tape" for many ) tape" of engineers..
Milliput makes JBWeld look like stone age tech..still can't fix everything, but it comes in specific versions that are specific for particular applications..

re SilverForgeStudio's explanation ( how to replace the part ) above..yes! :)
Only difference is I'd drill a hole in the top and bottom bars and then keep the connecting bar ( between them ) in place ( top and bottom ) with "split pins" or "captive washers"..Actually I suspect that SilverForgeStudio would do the same, but just did not get into the details. :-)

Edited April 24, 2019 by mikesc

[dikman]

That last photo better explains how it fits, so yes, wouldn't be very difficult to fabricate a suitable replacement. ebay doesn't necessarily require you to return something, and will generally cover the cost if you have to, whereas with PayPal you have to return it first, and usually at your expense. Just for your info, much better if you can avoid having to do it, and in this case if it was me I'd just make a replacement part.

[chrisash]

Are you guys for real, you would pay for a item and then when it arrives faulty, you would make repairs , rather than demand the seller send a replacement part to make is work as it was intended

[RockyAussie]

The cast iron piece may have an advantage in that it can be made to hold oil within it and given that it has to turn some with every stitch at both ends I suspect that the cast iron would reduce wear and tear and wear in better to fit as well. I would be chasing up the part replacement and letting us know how that goes for any other members that may want one from this seller.

[SilverForgeStudio]

7 hours ago, chrisash said:

Are you guys for real, you would pay for a item and then when it arrives faulty, you would make repairs , rather than demand the seller send a replacement part to make is work as it was intended

Why are you going to demand a part from across an ocean that isnt a "mission critical" part for a cheap bush-craft style machine... Now- if it were a commercial/industrial Juki, Adler or Pfaff shipped incorrectly- and it would not work without a specific part or the operation of the machine without that part would negate a warranty... that's a different matter entirely. Hey- I get it... if I bought a Rolex- it better work out of the box... but this- is not that class of machine. Third world manufacturing processes in a first-world consumer market. 

@chrisash You can fab one in less than 5-10 minutes and if you wanted to get fancy about it just press fit a couple of bearings (might add a few minutes to the job). The machine is a cheap entry level gateway to sewing. These are ditch-bank and farm-craft style machines. So for the cost of the machine... value the cost of your down time to haggle and wasted time waiting.

To answer your question yes- it arrived faulty due to handling in shipping and it is not a hard fix. You go haggle for a week or more to get a part- Ill fix it and get to using it. (Caveat here- my own Chinesium-pot metal Patcher which arrived with several dents and part defects- polished up pretty well and gave me a chance to learn how the machine operated so I can troubleshoot later if needed- so yes- I am speaking from experience.) This is a hobby-grade machine- its meant to be modified/adapted/fixed or tinkered with by the user.

And Aussie is right the Cast Iron does have a bit of an advantage for porous base material for holding oil- but is fragile. In all honesty you would be better served to push a brass/bronze bushing in place or substituting a bearing for those surfaces. The cast iron coming from China these days is like the "Pot-metal" from Taiwan and Japan of the 70's-80's... it is whatever is left over in the ladle/furnace poured without much attention to spec's or proper cooling (grey vs white cast iron) or finishing- look at the original pic- the hole is even off center bored from the mold-boss. And on my machine- the bores were not at 90 degrees to their pins or parallel with each other-causing binding. Easy fix- a file, some graphite and I am back and running in a few minutes once the offending parts are identified.

The OP was looking for advice on how to handle it- My answer is forget about it and fix it... your time is more valuable spent learning a skill and then putting the machine to work.

It has taken longer to write this than the fix would have taken.

Edited April 25, 2019 by SilverForgeStudio
Took out a bit of rubbbish and tidy up the post

[SilverForgeStudio]

On 4/23/2019 at 12:34 PM, drumminor2nd said:

Also, anything else I should look for to make sure this thing is otherwise functional?

Go read the other Chinese Patcher threads- they are loaded with hints for these little grunts.

My biggest headache was the timing- Put a witness mark on the rear cam-shaft and on each cam. Do this with the handle at TDC (top-dead-center)

The second timing item is easier- open the bobbin case top-plate and put a witness mark where the bobbin sits when the handle is at TDC of its rotation. If the shuttle comes out you now have a point of reference where it sits at the beginning of each stroke.

There are other hints/tips/tricks... you will find more the more you research. Youtube Mainley Acres and Chinese Shoe-Patcher for some troubleshooting items as well.

Hope this helps- be safe and as always- at peace. 

[SilverForgeStudio]

18 hours ago, SilverForgeStudio said:

1. measure center to center for holes- mark and centerpunch (so your drill wont drift)
2. drill one hole same size as lower pin on one end (make sure to drill 1/8 to 1/4 inch from edge for clearance of rod/arm in circular motion) 
3. drill one hole same size as upper bolt hole on other end. Mark which end is the upper
4. got a plumbers torch or propane torch or access to one? Great- get it (see next step)
5. Wear gloves- and take 2 pair of pliers (you already are wearing your safety glasses- right?) and HEAT MIDDLE OF THE BAR TO CHERRY RED
6. Twist the LOWER part 90 degrees to the upper about 2/3 the way down the bar (you need clearance for the drive arm)
7. quench in water, beer, wine, champagne- your medium of choice (if its CRS or mild steel it wont get hard)
8. Polish up, admire your new engineering skillset
9. Install and enjoy (You may need to tweak it some to stay on the lower bearing- get creative... Milliput?)

 

Just took a look at my machine compared to the OP- you can skip 4-7 if your mounting bolt-hole from the drive arm (upper) is parallel with the needle drive pin (Lower) and just drill 2 holes and mount this bar.

My drive arm is of a different style than the OP with bolt and pin at 90 degrees from each other. (Thus the twist in my directions)

[chrisash]

1 hour ago, SilverForgeStudio said:

Why are you going to demand a part from across an ocean that isnt a "mission critical" part for a cheap bush-craft style machine...

Perhapse if you read the OPs posts you would understand he brought if from a USA supplier