How to make a watchband with edge coating tutorial

[RockyAussie]

I have had this watch band floating around here for awhile and thought it might be a good time to do a how to make, along with one of the methods I use when I only have a small job to edge coat. The original band was inset with some short hair skin of which I could find no suitable substitute so as the picture below shows I managed to talk her into using crocodile. At this stage I have cut out all of my patterns and pieces and for the backing and I have gone with some 2mm thick nubuck camel skin I think. The black matt croc is about 1.5mm in thickness. Although there is only 2 keepers needed I do show enough croc strips for 3 keepers and that is because I'm just not that good. If one stuffs up along the way I don't have to reset the skiver etc to make another.

This pic below shows the embossing stamp I decided to use and how with a bent metal plate I use to hold the leather still in case I think it needs more stamp/heat time.

This shows the other strap stamped and this case held down with a magnet instead.

As the keepers have to have their edging done earlier than the rest of the strap I have to split them down to obtain a finished thickness around 1.2mm firstly. For the firm backing I am going for .5mm and have decided to do this on my Fortuna skiving machine. Below shows me setting the height on some scrap first.

showing the backing strip running through

and now the croc a little thicker at .7mm

This one below shows the skiving done on the straps with the Fortuna and a little hand skiving to achieve no thickness on the ends. This is done to minimise getting any holes in the valleys.

This is showing all the pieces ready to glue up and attach some reinforcing fabric for where the watch pins go. The one piece of fabric (front left) will be cut into 3 separate pieces as they are applied.

Here I am applying contact glue with the aid of glue gun.

It is best to attach the fabric in a rolling fashion over something a little larger than the watch pin. In this case I use a cotton bud stick.

This one shows what it should look like with the fabric's attached and the croc keeper strips stuck down.

That is about how many pics will load in one go so I will be back with more later.

 

 

[RockyAussie]

Now I mark out where the backing has to be attached to the crocodile.

This is then scratched up to be sure of good glue adhesion.

Followed by gluing up the pieces

After the strips are attached I like to get the crew punch hole cut and ready for edging

The keeper strips are now second cut to the correct width to be edged together with the crew punch.

Note that a stainless steel egg cup is used here.

Now I mark out where I want the stitches to start and stop on the backing connection.

A light scribe line could then be applied if wanted.

Back soon -

 

 

Edited June 11, 2019 by RockyAussie
Pictures went out of order

[RockyAussie]

Next step is to stitch the connection

Then pull the threads through to the back, glue them then tie a knot to keep them firmly held

Next step is gluing up and I have run a graphite lead pencil all in the middle to help the pins slide in later if it gets too tight.

Here they are now attached except for the backing near the buckle end. This is where I want to put in the first keeper later on.

To make the second cutting easier I like to glue up my cardboard patterns and let it tak (dry) off for a while. this helps to stop any moving around as I cut.

As you can see it helps

Now the holes get marked with a hole punch

Note: that the holes are only marked as yet. This is because going through the cardboard pattern and the strap ruins the cardboard pattern.

Now the holes can be punched out.

Sanding and edging will follow tomorrow 

 

[garypl]

Another great how-to article Brian - thanks for taking the time to document the steps and sharing with us!

Gary

[Rockoboy]

The finesse and attention to detail leaves me gobsmacked!

[RockyAussie]

Thanks for the comments Gary and Brian.

I just thought I would throw this picture in to show how well the tack coat can help when second cutting. Most leather are Ok with this but some oil tans can leave little blotchy marks but they normally rub out alright.

Now I like to use a fast speed Multi Tool sander with some fine 180 grit belt for this sort of job. You can use a fine grit sanding block as well it just takes a lot longer. This shows the machine and how I have made up an extraction cowl with some Perspex and a piano hinge to assist with the dust.

This is the angle I would hold it on while taking a bevel off of the edges.

It should start to look like this after sanding

A little heat carefully applied with a heat gun takes care of some of the fuzzy fibres

Now I do a check and make sure it is going to fit into the watch and buckle and leave a little room for the edge paint.

Now after giving the keepers another coat I start applying the edging along the straps. This requires a steady hand and should be lightly touched on NOT push and dragged on. The first coat should be kept fairly light and seals off and goes dry quickly. In this case I followed with a second light coat after about 5 minutes.

As you can see from the back the edging is a bit drunken sailor but the ironing will give that a straighter appearance later.

Once dry this is what the edging looks like prior to ironing. You could sand it and re edge coat and sand it again as well instead of ironing if needed.

Back soon -

[RockyAussie]

you OK now it is time to iron in the rough edges. I do this with the help of a 60 watt soldering iron that I have shaped the tip into a curved shape. This iron is temperature controlled by a light dimmer switch which I have been using this way for many years now. I use a piece of box channel hollowed out on one end to hold the iron in between steps. A magnifying viewer with a light helps to check and spread a bit of light as well.

Here I am pushing the iron away from me and sliding it along the edge

Now the same is applied to the other side of the same edge

If there is any trouble getting the centre down smooth you can also use the edge of the iron as shown

A quick check under the magnifier shows its good enough for a finish coat

At this stage I decided to get the fixed keeper joined up

I position the other band on top and determine the length needed

A sharp knife is needed for a good skive

The keeper is now contact glued up with the help of my spiky glue pot

and now it is pushed down over the top at this stage

Next step will be how I do the finish edging

 

 

 

[chrisash]

Amazed by the number of steps and the time it must take to make such a perfect item

Unfortunately I am restrained from trying to copy as I dont have the stainless steel egg cup 

[RockyAussie]

1 hour ago, chrisash said:

Amazed by the number of steps and the time it must take to make such a perfect item

Yeah ...I'm starting to get amazed myself....might have to throw this egg cup up your way.

Again with the egg cup I give it 1 or 2 more coats and let that dry for a few hours

Sometimes after drying they still may need some extra work. This pic below shows the edges are still a bit split line looking

This is now tackled with some very fine sandpaper and light rubbing with the grey Scotchbrite

Now it looks smooth but quite dull

The next step is to apply some of this HooCo wax

This I do on a finishing machine with a soft horse hair brush

I also like to give the top a good polish at this stage as that helps to avoid glue sticking to the needle when I stitch the bands

This picture shows the difference between a polished edge and one that is not.

Now it is time to place the keeper into place and I have sanded it all to make sure the glue holds it all in well.

Here shown it is glued and ready to stick down

Now it is ready to set up for the stitching

Time for a coffee -

 

[fredk]

Nice tute.

Is that an oil can you use as a glue pot & applicator?