Servo motor

[Shot]

First time posting, I just bought a juki lu-563. I want to put a servo motor on it.

I have searched, but haven't found the answer I am looking for. Or maybe didn't understand it. 

I am looking for a servo motor that has good slow speed control and a needle position sensor. 

I have read the issues with the motors not starting on the low settings.

What is the current go to for a great product?

Thanks 

Edited June 12, 2019 by Shot

[Wizcrafts]

Forget the position sensor unless you want to sew fast and stop fast. If you buy a servo motor like this one, which already has a very small pulley, you can feather the pedal to sew at about 1.5 stitches per second. It is easy to stop it on a dime from that speed. This type of motor has brushes and does have a power drop off when you turn the speed limiter pot or switch all the way down. Turning it just above the starting speed regains the lost torque.

The knob on this motor limits the top speed. Some people add a speed reducer setup between the motor and machine. That allows for extremely slow sewing and magnifies the torque by the gear ratio of all four pulleys (motor to large reducer, small reducer pulley to machine).

There are new v-belts required when changing from a clutch to a servo, plus when adding a reducer into the mix. I would try it direectly from the servo motor to the machine pulley. Just make sure that you buy a servo with a 50mm pulley. I use these motors on most of my machines.

[keithski122]

I love having a needle positioner.I don't sew fast but its great knowing the needle will stop in the down position (slightly raising), great for 90 degree turns knowing it won't skip the stitch on the corner.Used with the knee lift I can make curves or sharp turns without material slipping or stitches skipping.My machine is a 563 used for car upholstery so used on material from vinyl to leather to carpet.I don't have a need for a speed reducer, jack motor with speed limited to 1000.

Edited June 12, 2019 by keithski122

[Shot]

Thanks for your replies, I am brand-new at this. So trying to learn 

Edited June 12, 2019 by Shot

[jrjr2u]

I just went through this exact thing. See my thread here and what I landed on

 

Edited June 12, 2019 by jrjr2u

[Pintodeluxe]

I have a 563, and added the Family / Rex type servo Wizcraft linked to above.  Mine uses a 45mm pulley and it worked just fine that way.  Then I added a box-style speed reducer, and it can sew ridiculously slow or normal speed.  The speed reducer was almost overkill, but it's nice to have punching power on thick seams and intersections.  I don't have the needle positioner, and really don't think I need one (with or without the speed reducer).  

Good luck and happy hunting!

[dikman]

My first servo came with a needle positioner (because it seemed like a good idea). I used it once and took it off! As Wiz said, not needed for slow speed sewing. They also don't generally work if you fit a speed reducer or replace the handwheel with a larger pulley.

[Hockeymender]

I have needle positioners on all my servos and I wouldn’t be without them. Doing the slow, precise sewing that I do it is invaluable in keeping everything exactly in position as I work around fingers and thumbs. There is quite a bit of realignment that I’m constantly doing ahead of the needle and it’s necessary that the needle stop in the down position while that happens. 

I also have a speed reducer on one of my machines and I don’t have any issues with the synchronizer playing nice with the speed reducer.  

Just my two cents. 

[Sonydaze]

I have positioners on most of my machines.  I wouldn't want to be without them. I wish my even 441 clone had one... that may change.

[dikman]

Horses for courses, as they say , just didn't work for me. I was aware that someone got a speed reducer working with a positioner, I just couldn't remember who, but I think that is an exception as there have been a few who couldn't get it to work (including me). I wouldn't like to just assume it will work with any servo.

[keithski122]

When I was using my machine today I took notice of how it was working.I think the servo motor adds controllability.With the clutch motor it previously had I would press the pedal and not know if I would do one stitch or 15, with the servo I can tap the pedal and do one stitch, keep tapping and I can do lots of one stitches.Generally I guess I sew about two or three inches at a time on a straight line or I can tap it one stitch at a time around sharp curves or up to a corner.With the clutch motor I would have to do stuff like this very carefully or by handwheeling the machine.With the control I now have with just the servo and needle positioner I have no need to go any slower.

[Shot]

5 hours ago, keithski122 said:

When I was using my machine today I took notice of how it was working.I think the servo motor adds controllability.With the clutch motor it previously had I would press the pedal and not know if I would do one stitch or 15, with the servo I can tap the pedal and do one stitch, keep tapping and I can do lots of one stitches.Generally I guess I sew about two or three inches at a time on a straight line or I can tap it one stitch at a time around sharp curves or up to a corner.With the clutch motor I would have to do stuff like this very carefully or by handwheeling the machine.With the control I now have with just the servo and needle positioner I have no need to go any slower.

Sounds like great controlibility, what motor setup do you have

[rburson]

       I have a 111w152 fitted with a servo and  45 mm pulley and a needle positioner.   I like that 1 tap of pedal will take needle down thru 1 full stitch just till it is starting on way up no missed stitches. With no reverse on this machine

I can start out facing backwards tap 3 taps and no I will have 3 complete stitches then turn my work around and run it at a very comfortable speed with the servo motor speed set at 500 rpm top speed.Then when I reach end of my stitching 1 tap with heel on front of the pedal and the needle goes to the top and I can release presser foot and pull work out no manual hand wheeling at all. When I first installed it I had it stopping at very bottom and would skip stitches and I would have to work the hand wheel to get the thread to release from the rotating hook assembly.I can punch thru about 3/8" of leather with no problem 1 stitch at a time.

[keithski122]

Mine is a juki 563 with a jack servo motor and needle positioner.I have extended the arm on the pedal by about 2 or 3 inches and the same on the motor controller.I found that without the extensions I had too little ankle movement before stitching would occur and I would accidently stitch

[NCArcher]

I've got a needle positioner on my Consew/Efka servo machine. I love it and wouldn't want to sew without it now. I managed to find a manual for the positioner and it is very easy to set up so that it stops exactly where you want it to.

[arielariasii]

can i use a 45mm pulley from my clutch motor to servo motor? are they compatible?

 

[kgg]

6 hours ago, arielariasii said:

can i use a 45mm pulley from my clutch motor to servo motor? are they compatible?

I going to assume you mean that you are planning on removing the 45mm pulley that is on the clutch motor and installing it on the servo motor. If the diameter of the hole in 45mm pulley is the correct size for the shaft of the servo motor, yes it would probably be a good match. If the hole in the pulley is to small you will need to ream it out, if too large you would need to sleeve the hole down or just buy a 45mm pulley that correctly matches the servo motor shaft.

kgg

[Constabulary]

and it depends on the pulley - some clutch motors have pulleys with a tapered bore and to my best knowledge they do not fit on any servo.

[Wizcrafts]

Some clutch motors have a 3/4 inch shaft (~20mm). Most servo motors have something close to 13 or 14mm, which is way under the pulley bore on the clutch motor. You would need a custom bored sleeve to take up the slack.

[KathyBrown]

Hello, I am from Oregon and a long-time sewer, mostly of clothing and now leather bags. A few weeks ago I purchased a Consew with a Premier 550W Servo motor. I found it way too fast and changed out the pulley to a 45mm one through Amazon, and got a shorter belt to fit. Yesterday I finally got all set up and noticed that the handwheel on the machine is Very hard to turn and there is a squeak/ squeal coming from the motor when I manually turn the wheel. (this was not present before) I thought it might be the belt or my assembly of the pulley, so I took off the belt and the handwheel turns fine, but the squeak remains even if I take off the nut holding on the pulley and partially remove it. It seems to be coming from the motor, as if it has a brake on.  There is no noise or hesitation when sewing (although I stopped until This is resolved.) I called the dealer and they plan to call back tomorrow.

Any ideas? 

Kathy B.

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, KathyBrown said:

Hello, I am from Oregon and a long-time sewer, mostly of clothing and now leather bags. A few weeks ago I purchased a Consew with a Premier 550W Servo motor. I found it way too fast and changed out the pulley to a 45mm one through Amazon, and got a shorter belt to fit. Yesterday I finally got all set up and noticed that the handwheel on the machine is Very hard to turn and there is a squeak/ squeal coming from the motor when I manually turn the wheel. (this was not present before) I thought it might be the belt or my assembly of the pulley, so I took off the belt and the handwheel turns fine, but the squeak remains even if I take off the nut holding on the pulley and partially remove it. It seems to be coming from the motor, as if it has a brake on.  There is no noise or hesitation when sewing (although I stopped until This is resolved.) I called the dealer and they plan to call back tomorrow.

Any ideas? 

Kathy B.

Yes, your motor has a cork brake. Give it a little pedal to disengage the brake when you hand wheel. This is a learning curve experience. There may even be a means of adjusting slack motion between full braking and the release point. Otherwise, the brake may have to come off, or be ground/sanded down.