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Posted

I have been experiencing some blotchy dye results. Using veg-tanned 4/5 and 6/7 for a leather visor and Pro Dye, I had a blotchy finish that was unacceptable. The 6/7 dyed evenly. Using a swab i applied the dye as usual. But when it was dry the leather was blotchy. Some areas had dark patches. Unsightly and unacceptable. Any thoughts?

  • Contributing Member
Posted

1. Wet your leather. Wipe it over with a wet sponge. Damp but not soaking wet

2. dilute the dye and apply several thinned coats to reach colour density

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

  • Members
Posted

Normally people don't have issues with the oil dyes because they take longer to dry and you can spread it around better then water based. May have just been the leather itself if the 4/5 was fine and you've not had issues before.

Did you buff it good after it was completely dry?

Every day you learn something is a good day. If you don't learn something every day, was it worth waking up for?

Posted

I dyed several pieces of a project last week, one piece was about 14inches long by 8inches wide. I thought I had it nailed by using a strip of lambs wool about an inch wide folded double by 3inches long, effectively giving me a 3inch wide brush, for a very quick dye job.

How wrong was I? The dye came out all blotchy and I could see where the "dye brush" had hit the leather first dumping a lot of dye. At the suggestion of somebody who knows more than I (not real difficult to imagine), thanks @silverback, a light coat of neatsfoot and a few hours to dry, my project has come out as near to perfect as I could ever hope for.

Kindest regards

Brian

 

"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right"  Henry Ford

Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy,  Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)

  • Members
Posted

My most consistent die jobs have come when I use what are sold as stain applicators at Home Depot.  They are a sponge with a fabric cover, they give a very nice even distribution.  I gave up on the daubers, I am not sure if it was me or the daubers but things looked terrible.  The neatsfoot oil does really help.

Todd

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Posted

If you go to the Fiebings website there's a page there that recommends mixing the alcohol based dyes with 100% Neatsfoot at a ratio of 94% Neatsfoot oil to 6% dye and no...that is not a misprint. Apparently the chemists at Fiebings found this to be the optimum mix for dying leather. I have not tried this myself yet, but will in the not too distant future. Up to now I have found that a light coat of oil prior to dying did improve the process. Some use just plain water, perhaps that is just as well. ymmv  Here's a link to the Fiebings page:  https://www.fiebing.com/tips/mixing-fiebings-leather-dye-and-prime-neatsfoot-oil-compound/

Tony V
Rifle River Leather
Ogemaw Knifeworks


There are two individuals inside every artisan...the poet and the craftsman.
One is born a poet. One becomes a craftsman.

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Posted

TonyRV2 hit the nail on the head, . . . "Up to now I have found that a light coat of oil prior to dying did improve the process."

My first couple of uses of Feibings Saddle Tan worked OK then I hit the "blotchy" wall, . . . saw several pieces basically ruined by uneven dye jobs.

Tried the "oil it first", . . . and have been doing that ever since, . . . works like a champ.  

I use a bristle brush and lay an even coat of neatsfoot oil (NOT compound) on the flesh side of the projects, . . . 24 hrs later the leather has returned pretty near to the original color, . . . then I do the dip dye trick, . . . love the results.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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