BLT Report post Posted August 11, 2019 I have been experiencing some blotchy dye results. Using veg-tanned 4/5 and 6/7 for a leather visor and Pro Dye, I had a blotchy finish that was unacceptable. The 6/7 dyed evenly. Using a swab i applied the dye as usual. But when it was dry the leather was blotchy. Some areas had dark patches. Unsightly and unacceptable. Any thoughts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted August 11, 2019 1. Wet your leather. Wipe it over with a wet sponge. Damp but not soaking wet 2. dilute the dye and apply several thinned coats to reach colour density Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted August 11, 2019 Normally people don't have issues with the oil dyes because they take longer to dry and you can spread it around better then water based. May have just been the leather itself if the 4/5 was fine and you've not had issues before. Did you buff it good after it was completely dry? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rockoboy Report post Posted August 14, 2019 I dyed several pieces of a project last week, one piece was about 14inches long by 8inches wide. I thought I had it nailed by using a strip of lambs wool about an inch wide folded double by 3inches long, effectively giving me a 3inch wide brush, for a very quick dye job. How wrong was I? The dye came out all blotchy and I could see where the "dye brush" had hit the leather first dumping a lot of dye. At the suggestion of somebody who knows more than I (not real difficult to imagine), thanks @silverback, a light coat of neatsfoot and a few hours to dry, my project has come out as near to perfect as I could ever hope for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hildebrand Report post Posted August 14, 2019 My most consistent die jobs have come when I use what are sold as stain applicators at Home Depot. They are a sponge with a fabric cover, they give a very nice even distribution. I gave up on the daubers, I am not sure if it was me or the daubers but things looked terrible. The neatsfoot oil does really help. Todd Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyRV2 Report post Posted August 14, 2019 If you go to the Fiebings website there's a page there that recommends mixing the alcohol based dyes with 100% Neatsfoot at a ratio of 94% Neatsfoot oil to 6% dye and no...that is not a misprint. Apparently the chemists at Fiebings found this to be the optimum mix for dying leather. I have not tried this myself yet, but will in the not too distant future. Up to now I have found that a light coat of oil prior to dying did improve the process. Some use just plain water, perhaps that is just as well. ymmv Here's a link to the Fiebings page: https://www.fiebing.com/tips/mixing-fiebings-leather-dye-and-prime-neatsfoot-oil-compound/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted August 14, 2019 TonyRV2 hit the nail on the head, . . . "Up to now I have found that a light coat of oil prior to dying did improve the process." My first couple of uses of Feibings Saddle Tan worked OK then I hit the "blotchy" wall, . . . saw several pieces basically ruined by uneven dye jobs. Tried the "oil it first", . . . and have been doing that ever since, . . . works like a champ. I use a bristle brush and lay an even coat of neatsfoot oil (NOT compound) on the flesh side of the projects, . . . 24 hrs later the leather has returned pretty near to the original color, . . . then I do the dip dye trick, . . . love the results. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites