FIRST SHOES FOR FERG

[Ferg]

I said some time back I wasn't in the mood to make shoes. Decided a few weeks ago to see what I could do with it.

Bought two or three books which provided much info that I reference every day I am working on the shoes.

My wife has rather severe arthritis in her feet and ankles. We have bought enough shoes to fill a store, that do not exactly fit.

Had inserts designed by a foot specialist that helped some for several months. Thousands of dollars for orthotics.

I told her I could certainly try to make her a pair that she could be somewhat comfortable with.

Bought a Shoe Last as close to her foot size as I could find and modified them with dozens of measurements I took of her feet.

The photo is of the two Lasts after modification with layers of leather shaped and formed plus the drawing of the shoe I am building.

The lasts have been sprayed with several coats of clear acrylic. My manner of making the shoes is referred to as the Geometric of which French, Italian, Bavarian, English and others

use to make "Bespoke" shoes. Complicated is not really descriptive of what goes into this. I never give up on any endeavor I decide to pursue. This one pushes those feelings.

Note: The wide offset in the shoes to the out side. That is to allow for arthritic swelling in her bones at the side of her feet. Two toes on each foot are affected also plus her instep and arch.

Thought some of you may be interested to see this. I know there are several on the forum who have worked in the field. I am interested in their comments as well as anyone else.

I am in the process of making a "Throw Away Shoe" to test the fit and comfort. Hoping my measurements aren't too far off. 

BTW: I found that Metric Measurement is a lot easier to use on shoes than Inches.

Ferg

 

[mikesc]

Definitely interested..Just the one question ..Why have you decided to use a slightly pointed shape ( one in which the longest part is close to the centre line ) rather than one in which the longest part is closer to the inside edge ? Feet are longer at the big toe, rather than at the second or third toe.I'm thinking like a sandal sole shape , which allows the toes to spread naturally, as opposed to a western boot sole shape, which squishes them to a point in line with the centre line of the foot..Thinking about a recent thread here from someone who is making boots that fit their feet as opposed to making boots that their feet must fit into.I mention this as if you are working from "scratch" and your wife already has bone and articulation problems in her feet, I'm surprised to see that you made allowances ( adjusted the lasts ) at the sides, but kept the artificial ( compared with the shape of human feet ) "longest point is on a centre line of the foot " aspect of the shape of the lasts ?

As I understand it, shoes are made "pointed along a centre line" and narrower at the front ( despite the fact that feet are not that shape ) so as to make the shoe easier to remove from the last..Not to be comfortable on the feet. Or..did your wife say ( as mine would if I said I was going to make her some "foot shaped shoes" ) "I'm not wearing shoes that make it look like I have ducks feet when they are on"..In which case I can sympathise, I'd opt for the quiet life too I may well make myself a pair of "feet shaped shoes" one day, but I know that my wife would never wear any if I made them for her, unless inside the house only.

ps..did you think of casting her feet in plaster*( two or three part molds per each foot ) and then making a "positive cast" of her foot , which you could then carve lasts from blocks to get her precise foot shape for each foot.You can use cold silicone or alginate casting which would be flexible enough to peel off her feet when set, alginates set up very fast, used for molding faces , limbs etc , and for what I think are called " baby bump" castings. Casting is very easy, especially if you do not have to allow for leaving the spaces between the toes.

 

edit..I found the thread I was thinking of..Original poster was tozafoot

Very interesting thread..well worth looking at his site too, very interesting reading in there.Especially about "give toes room" and trying to make shoes as close to "barefoot" as possible to avoid foot problems, or lessen pain from existing conditions due to "fashionable" shaped footwear, constraining and distorting feet over time.

https://tozafoot.com/2019/07/02/experimenting-with-design-and-method-side-fastening-shoes/

Edited August 20, 2019 by mikesc

[Ferg]

mikesc

I took careful measurements of her feet as well as the shape of her foot. The LAST I chose is a "Munson". Normally used for military shoes since WW I.

The toe space has vertical space more than normal also. Attempted to shape the LAST so she could get her painful feet into the shoe easily as well as help to control movement in her abnormal bones of the toes. 

Obviously the LAST design wasn't necessarily intended for women's wear but has been modified many times over the years. Since she has had a number of years to endure the pain, she doesn't really care if the shoes appear more like a man's shoe than women.

This shoe will have a 223mm/3/4" heel.

Thanks so much for your insight and thoughts.

Also: I did consider the casting and with the materials you listed. Decided I would go this way. I believe my photo, taken at the angle  In the photo, makes the toe area appear more pointed than it actually is.

Ferg

Edited August 20, 2019 by Ferg

[mikesc]

Ah..Thanks for that Ferg :)

 Yes they did look "somewhat pointy" in that photo, had me worried for a while there :)

I have learned not to even so much as hint at a comment concerning the number of pairs of shoes my wife has, in return she doesn't comment on my tool purchases, and only rarely comments on the number of sewing machines and computers I have.

 I'll be following with interest, I can only stand wearing shoes for a few hours a day due to various damage to my feet over the years, typing this in bare feet now.

[Aven]

Ferg, that is a great start.  I'm looking forward to watching your progress.

 

Mikesc you asked " .... Why have you decided to use a slightly pointed shape ( one in which the longest part is close to the centre line ) rather than one in which the longest part is closer to the inside edge ? Feet are longer at the big toe, rather than at the second or third toe." 

Having a second toe longer than the big toe or a short big toe is called Morton's Toe.  It's not that uncommon.

[mikesc]

My toes are all long, but the big one is longer than the second one..But..as the second fingers on my hands are longer than the first fingers,( they are all long ) You'd expect feet to match..Mine don't..But given the shape of shoes and lasts , maybe Morton's toes are / were  predominant.

Ferg..are you going to do any decoration? If you have thought that far ahead .?  Some Brogue patterns could be used to add a feminine touch.

[RockyAussie]

2 hours ago, Ferg said:

Complicated is not really descriptive of what goes into this

Soooo true. Ferg I have a bit of experience with this but not ever without seeing and feeling the feet of the wearer. This probably wont be liked by her but if you could post a picture of her feet standing flat on the floor a couple of inches apart from the knees down would help. Also any orthotics  that have been done recently. I understand if she would rather not.

[MikeRock]

Morton's toe.....  Now I know.  My second toes are 3/8" longer than the great toes on both feet.  It has caused me some grief with steel toed boots which I wear almost constantly.

Now I have more to read!!

God bless

[bikermutt07]

54 minutes ago, mikesc said:

My toes are all long, but the big one is longer than the second one..But..as the second fingers on my hands are longer than the first fingers,( they are all long ) You'd expect feet to match..Mine don't..But given the shape of shoes and lasts , maybe Morton's toes are / were  predominant.

Ferg..are you going to do any decoration? If you have thought that far ahead .?  Some Brogue patterns could be used to add a feminine touch.

In my family, involving my first wife and my current wife, our children all seemed to get mom's feet and dad's crooked fingers.

Ferg, I hope you succeed in your challenge. I gave up awhile back on the shoes, but I may be inspired once again to try. It just got so confusing for me as a hobby project.

[RockyAussie]

35 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

Soooo true. Ferg I have a bit of experience with this but not ever without seeing and feeling the feet of the wearer. This probably wont be liked by her but if you could post a picture of her feet standing flat on the floor a couple of inches apart from the knees down would help. Also any orthotics  that have been done recently. I understand if she would rather not.

Also I should have added a picture of the soles of her feet. I would be trying to see how much metatarsal drop compared to bunion swelling amongst other stuff. I am in the middle of a large run of belts so I will have to check back on and off today. If one knee goes inward more than the other are things to be noted as well.