Members Gregg From Keystone Sewing Posted September 10, 2019 Members Report Posted September 10, 2019 104-64 is a really nice machine, we sold a few many years ago. Quote Industrial sewing and cutting, parts sales and service, family owned since 1977, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA, 215/922.6900 info@keysew.com www.keysew.com
Members Bert51 Posted September 10, 2019 Members Report Posted September 10, 2019 (edited) I have a 105-6 and the main problem I have with thread is as Constabulary said, " The check spring should hold the thread under "tension" until the needle touches the material " or I do not have the thread wrapped around the bottom tensioner 1 and 1/2 times. Could you please post a picture of your face plate showing the needle about to go into your material. Thanks, Bert. Edited September 10, 2019 by Bert51 spelling Quote
Members Dantan Posted November 28, 2019 Author Members Report Posted November 28, 2019 Hi, I am sorry, I forgot to post as to how it was all resolved... I decided to try a new cone of thread.... and it worked!!!! All I can think of is that the thread is so stiff, that it gets to the end of the cone, the curve is so tight, it is twisting the thread.... not sure.. but, a new cone seemed to fix it!! Dantan Quote
Members Bert51 Posted November 28, 2019 Members Report Posted November 28, 2019 Dantan, one thing I found was with heavy thread the near the end of the cone has memory of it being wrapped around the plastic cone and I was reading a post by gottaknow about having the thread cone as low as you can get it on the thread stand, I had my my cone to high, I lowered them and set it up like he said and no more problems. This is what gottoknow said, "Two things come to mind. First, if the speed of your motor for your winder is too fast, you don't have a chance, especially with bonded thread. Second, most thread manufacturers recommend having the first guide loop 2 1/2 times the height of the cone height. For example, if the height of the cone is 8", the first loop the thread passes through should be 20" from the base where the cone sits. Thread needs a chance to unwind and relax before it goes through the tension disc. The wire loop also needs to be directly above the centre of the cone. Oh, and lastly, high quality thread tends to behave itself better all the way around. (not judging your thread, just commentary)." Bert. Quote
Members Gymnast Posted November 28, 2019 Members Report Posted November 28, 2019 I am glad to know, that you got the problem solved by changing the thread cone. I am not using the right machine for the job, and it made me investigate some details regarding thread twisting and thread tension. It was discussed about a half year in this forum, and it may help you to use all your thread and avoid similar problems: Quote Sewing Machines in Detail, YouTube channel
CFM Frodo Posted November 28, 2019 CFM Report Posted November 28, 2019 Hello Dantan, I am not an expert by a long shot, BUT, I have experienced the same thing. and it caused a day of head scratching and cursing. what i found is that my needle thread tension is set just right on the thinner leather but when i went to a thicker leather the tension needed to be loosened just a tweak. i keep a strip of leather next to my machine that i use to check the tension of the needle thread, i never adjust the bobbin tension also. I use brass eye screws to route my thread from the roll to the machine. it reminds me of inspector gadget's set up but it stops the twisting Quote Singer 66, Chi Chi Patcher, Rex 26-188, singer 29k62 , 2-needles D.C.F.M
Members Bert51 Posted November 28, 2019 Members Report Posted November 28, 2019 (edited) Some years back, all I had was my wife's Viking sewing machine and I had all sorts of problems using large spools with it and I made my own thread spool, although it was heaps better I still had a few problems with it, mainly towards the end of the spool. All I did after reading gotoknows post was to make a wire rig that gave me about a foot of straight thread above the spool holder and before coming to the machine first thread guide. I think if you give the thread a place where it can be kept straight for a short time some of the tension is released from the thread and there fore goes through the machine easier. All of my machine thread stands have about a foot straight before going to the machine and I have one less problem with my thread. If it was as easy to fix the link error on the machine, that would be great. Added a picture of one of my early thread stands, thank heavens for fencing wire. Bert. Edited November 28, 2019 by Bert51 add picture Quote
Members dikman Posted November 29, 2019 Members Report Posted November 29, 2019 Spoken like a true Aussie - not much you can't fix with a pair of pliers and fencing wire! Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members Bert51 Posted November 29, 2019 Members Report Posted November 29, 2019 When I sold the farm and moved into town, I brought with me a near new roll of 8 gauge fencing wire and now I think I've lost it, went looking for it the other day and all I could find was a few coils of it. Buggered if I know where it's gone. Bert. Quote
Members dikman Posted November 30, 2019 Members Report Posted November 30, 2019 You've probably used it all fixing things. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.