Thread guide clearance issues

[keithski122]

Using my new to me sewing machine and its a treat to use.Its one with a knob on the top to alter the maximum foot lift for thicker materials and also an electrical switch to do the same, however I've noticed when sewing on thicker materials or with the height on full the outer foot hits on the needle bar thread guide.Will I cause issues if I grind the guide back so there is no hole there anymore. I think its been clearanced before but not enough.I don't want to clearance the foot as I have loads that I use and don't want to do them all.

 

Edited October 2, 2019 by keithski122

[Mark842]

the needle guide keeps your thread inline with the long groove. If you grind it off your top thread may fray. try sewing without the thread going through it before grinding it off and see what happens.

[garypl]

Did you try rotating the needle guide slightly to try to correct the problem?  Sounds like the front of the guide is hitting the outer foot, so maybe turning it slightly will give you the clearance you need?

Gary

[RockyAussie]

1 hour ago, garypl said:

Did you try rotating the needle guide slightly to try to correct the problem?  Sounds like the front of the guide is hitting the outer foot, so maybe turning it slightly will give you the clearance you need?

Gary

I agree. Grind away is a last resort. Needle bar may need to revolve a bit.

[Matt S]

Grinding away your thread guide is like cutting your legs short cos you keep hitting your head on the door frame. If you really must use your machine at maximum thickness far better to grind a little off the top of any outer feet you may use with that thickness of leather. An outer foot is a £5-10 part and a 15 second swap; a needle bar is £30+ and a fairly involved job to replace when you get tired of keep snapping threads cos you ground the guide away.

First thing to check (apart from the rotation mentioned above) would be that your needle bar height is correct for the correct class of needle as mentioned in the manual. Could be that the previous owner lowered it to suit a shorter needle class that they already used.

[Constabulary]

I don´t know which machine you are using so I´m assuming you are using a 135x16 / 135x17 needle (or even shorter like 134R or 134-35?) You could use a longer needle - like system 190 (or 135x17 when you are using 134-34 or 134R). Then you have to raise the needle bar and the NB is no longer touching the foot.

[keithski122]

Forums are great!

I don't like grinding things away but don't want to cause damage with the foot hitting the needle bar. This machine has a needle clamp fitted to the needle bar and I had looked at turning it but it is pinned to the needle bar so won't turn............I hadn't thought about turning the needle bar though!   Don't want to change needles as we have a few machines at work which all use the same, also going to a longer needle will cause more needle flex and likely more needle breakage. Another idea was to grind the guide back and fit a wire guide from a different machine.

After posting I did have the idea to check needle bar height which I will do tomorrow as well as turning the bar. I will report back with the results.

[keithski122]

Ok. Checked needle height and is set correctly.Tried rotating needle bar but it put the rear edge too close to the foot and causes clearance issues, it also seems to move needle too close to the edge of the hole in the inner foot.On hand lift clearance is good its only when I use the extra lift.I need to check if I can alter the outer foot lift to lower or redrill guide hole in needle bar further to the right then clearance the left side.

[keithski122]

Not tried anything yet but did find in the engineers manual for a juki 2810 that this can be an issue for that machine if it is the standard gauge (I guess singer style foot), the fix is to set the foot height 4mm lower.Something for me to look at.