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Posted

Sadly, any 132K6 I've seen, that is any good has a real good price on it.

Bert.

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Posted (edited)

where are you located? Essex in the UK?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SINGER-132-K6-HEAVY-DUTY-SEWING-MACHINE/153660274459?hash=item23c6ddb71b:g:sQcAAOSwsVpdMGgU

Other than Singer 132K - check for Singer 45K

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

Or an Adler 104 or 105, they all use the same needle as the Singers.

Would a size 25 needle be heavy enough?

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Posted

As you are only sewing the edges, then using a epoxy glue would not be expensive i guess and you can do small sections at a time, my understanding is that epoxy glues are far stronger than normal contact glue, but worth investigation i would have thought

Regarding the stitch line, that could be done first and then glued giving the effect you are looking for

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

  • Moderator
Posted

A Union Lockstitch machine can punch through plywood. They were often used to sew luggage and cases in their day. Also, the Campbell Randall and Landis 3 and 16 can do this task. The reason is these are all needle and awl machines with powerful continuous run motors and giant flywheel pulleys. These old machines still cost thousands of dollars.

Aside from the needle and awl machines, I believe that a #26 or #27 needle would be needed in a closed eye needle machine, like the Cowboy and Cobra 441 clones. Or, maybe a #25 round point instead of leather point. Either way, the material should be glued to the wood before punching through or the wood will splinter on the bottom. If an upholstery machine was used, the hole in the feed dog would have to be large enough to clear a #25 needle. Also, the hook might need to be moved further away to clear the oversize needle.

I think the OP would be better off drilling the holes on a drill press, or with a hand drill.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

I am in the US, Nebraska, so sadly couldn't pick up that one in the UK.

I have glued the whole thing down, the stitching is for added securement.

Couldn't find any adler, campbell and rand, or landus on eBay that came up with those part numbers. A couple of local ads popped up for a Singer 241-2 and a 78-1? Looks like there's a few posts about them on this forum, but make me feel like those aren't up to the task. I have a week and a half to find one, as I'm headed down to Kansas for work, will look around there too I suppose.

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Posted

I like to link to one of the previous threads on in this forum on the subject:

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66962-sewing-through-leather-and-plywood/?tab=comments#comment-436004

I notice that even Wiz back then wrote a comment, that he once sew plywood with a singer 15-91 with a 110/18 needle and V69 thread.

On ‎10‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 9:48 PM, Matt S said:

All of those machines you listed are domestic machines for sewing shirts and cushions, or garment weight industrials (for sewing shirts and cushions quickly). None of them are suitable for sewing plywood, even lighter stuff. Sadly eBay is full of mislead and misleading persons.

Well this got me a bit provoked, and now I tried sewing plywood on my Singer 201 domestic machine for sewing shirts. And I admit, that it is modified, and this is not for general long time use. This sewing is with a 140/22 regular needle, V138 polyester thread and 4 mm Finnish Plywood.  This is how it looks:

 

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Posted

Gymnast, if I understand correctly, at the end of your video you mention a youtube video you made about your machine. Would you please post a link to that video.

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