Edge Kote rubbing off....solution?

[terrymac]

Burnishing is compressing and sealing the fibers. I don't know for sure if that is contributing to the color..bleed.  I use Vernice and Uniters and have no problem with either.

Terry

[HondoMan]

14 minutes ago, terrymac said:

Burnishing is compressing and sealing the fibers. I don't know for sure if that is contributing to the color..bleed.  I use Vernice and Uniters and have no problem with either.

Terry

I don't think burnishing is causing the issue.  Before the wax is applied I burnish with canvas and only a trace rubs off.  Seems the Edge Kote does it's job well up to that point.  Once I rub a wee amount of beeswax and burnish is when the issue starts.

[particle]

I think part of the issue is Fiebing hasn't done a great job of instructing people on how to properly use their products (their YouTube channel has barely any instructional content). I used Edge Kote years ago - hated it and promptly threw it away. Not sure how long it's been around (probably a while), but I recently bought & tried Fiebing's Edge Dye. I figured since it comes in a bottle with a sponge tip that it'll be easy to apply, and since it's a dye, it's bound to be better than Edge Kote! Boy was I wrong. I think it's just s diluted version of Edge Kote, so it's just another painted-on edge finish.

I may be wrong, but I always assumed Edge Kote was intended to be a final edge finish. Meaning, there should be no need to wax and burnish it (which could damage & remove the coating). An acrylic sealer over the edge is fine and probably a good idea.

[HondoMan]

2 minutes ago, particle said:

I think part of the issue is Fiebing hasn't done a great job of instructing people on how to properly use their products (their YouTube channel has barely any instructional content). I used Edge Kote years ago - hated it and promptly threw it away. Not sure how long it's been around (probably a while), but I recently bought & tried Fiebing's Edge Dye. I figured since it comes in a bottle with a sponge tip that it'll be easy to apply, and since it's a dye, it's bound to be better than Edge Kote! Boy was I wrong. I think it's just s diluted version of Edge Kote, so it's just another painted-on edge finish.

I may be wrong, but I always assumed Edge Kote was intended to be a final edge finish. Meaning, there should be no need to wax and burnish it (which could damage & remove the coating). An acrylic sealer over the edge is fine and probably a good idea.

Aye, you are correct.  The instructions simply state to apply the Edge Kote after the edges are smooth.  Nothing more.  And they offer near no instructional videos. 

[Hildebrand]

I am pretty much a rookie here but the common theme you keep stating is everything is good until you wax it.  Maybe try not waxing and see a few days later if it still rubs off, if not that means there is something in the wax that reacts with the edge coat and makes it soft again. Maybe one of those situations where you have to choose one or the other.  One thing I have started doing to get an even look for the die between the object and the edge is die everything at once when I am finished.

Todd

[wizard of tragacanth]

I never use any products designed for edges, only Gum Trag and Tokonole on belts and holsters, but I have always been on the lookout for a good one, just in case I needed it in the future. I always thought of Edge Kote as the rubbery, semi-gloss paint, that I would see on cheap belts, at cheap stores. It looked like it would eventually wear, or peel off. That was just as guess, as I had never used it. The only two products available at my local Tandy are Edge Kote and Dura Edge. On the Fiebing's website, it has these descriptions...

Edge Kote: Dries water resistant with a flexible, deep semi- gloss.

Dura Edge: Fiebing's Dura Edge is a flexible and highly durable finish that will result in a professional edge every time. No need for burnishing, buffing or other labor intensive processes to get the edge you always desired. Fiebing's Dura Edge dries bright, hard and will not rub off. The convenient wool dauber attached to the cap allows for easy application with minimal mess.

A few days ago, I ran across a Fiebing's product called Burnishing Ink Wax. That one sounded very interesting to me, as I could dye and burnish at the same time. It appeared to be available only in 32oz jugs. I asked my local Tandy and they had no experience or knowledge of this stuff. I searched this forum and found a post saying that it was not a good product.

 

So, I went to the Fiebing's website, and for the first time, discovered their Shoe Care products. Under the Shoe Care products, they have Cobbler Classics. There are a couple of interesting products. However, I could not find any descriptions. I am wondering if any of our Cobblers on this forum could be of assistance here. Perhaps there is a product for sole edges that would work great for us?

 

https://www.fiebing.com/shop/?c=34411/COBBLERCLASSICS

 

nick

 

Edited October 15, 2019 by wizard of tragacanth

[chiefjason]

The only thing I do after edge kote is to apply 2 coats of acrylic sealer.  Mop and glo with water 50/50.  I don't see any bleed, no complaints either.  I'll test it a little more soon.  What I do notice is that it's tacky for a while after sealing so I let it dry 24 hours between coats.  

[HondoMan]

12 hours ago, chiefjason said:

The only thing I do after edge kote is to apply 2 coats of acrylic sealer.  Mop and glo with water 50/50.  I don't see any bleed, no complaints either.  I'll test it a little more soon.  What I do notice is that it's tacky for a while after sealing so I let it dry 24 hours between coats.  

Mop and glo is on offer in Germany, but at 64 Euros, not an inexpensive idea.  But I'm sure I can locate a less costly equivelent.  Cheers!

Edited October 16, 2019 by HondoMan

[wizard of tragacanth]

Mop & Glo is just an acrylic floor polish. Fiebing's Resolene is essentially the same thing. Many people dilute it 50/50. But Mop & Glo is a cheaper alternative here in the U.S. Just look for any acrylic floor polish that you have locally.

nick

[paloma]

13 hours ago, chiefjason said:

The only thing I do after edge kote is to apply 2 coats of acrylic sealer.  Mop and glo with water 50/50.  I don't see any bleed, no complaints either.  I'll test it a little more soon.  What I do notice is that it's tacky for a while after sealing so I let it dry 24 hours between coats.  

that's exactly what I meant earlier. Maybe the word "varnish" is not correct.

Edited October 16, 2019 by paloma