Members NeilMott Posted December 18, 2019 Author Members Report Posted December 18, 2019 Just an update. I got the KS Blade punch irons on Sunday and was able to do a bit of stitching. Makes really tight round holes. Right now I'm using 0.8mm Tiger thread. Using John James 000 needles was too big. 02 needles are ok but I'm going to try some 04 size... These are super high quality. I'm still intrigued with the idea of straight stitches with a slanted or diamond shape chisel... Here's the in-progress shot. Quote
Members Tugadude Posted December 18, 2019 Members Report Posted December 18, 2019 NeilMott, I suggest you look at (if you haven't) Nigel Armitage's youtube videos on stitching. He covers a lot of the basics and anyone can learn a lot by watching him. He covers the traditional style pricking iron and awl stitching as well as over a dozen stitching chisels including the KS Blades chisels. However, he demonstrates the ones with slanted teeth. As I read some of the answers here I was reminded that experience is the best teacher. Some of the advice clearly works for the person giving it, but to find the look that makes you happy you are going to have to sort it out yourself. I'm not saying that any of the advice is wrong, but I found points on which I agreed and points on which I didn't. I prefer slanted stitching and try my best to achieve it all the time, front and back. Sometimes I'm more successful than others. The type of leather matters, the thickness matters, the stiffness matters. Then you add the irons, the thread, your stitching style and it really is a complicated matter. In the end, find what works for you, what looks acceptable to your eye and appeals to your taste. Quote
Members NeilMott Posted January 20, 2020 Author Members Report Posted January 20, 2020 Hey all. I couldn't really find another place that might be more appropriate to post. While I like the straight stitch I think there's a lot to be said for a traditional stitch with a slight angle. I tried casting while stitching (lock stitch) on these round dent irons and it gave a slight angle... I didn't mind it at all. I ended up watching Nigel's pricking/stitching iron reviews (nearly all of them, and some of them 2x) and I think I have a better sense of what I want. I also re-read what everyone posted and it makes way more sense than before. I'm leaning towards a Japanese type of chisel (to punch through leather - no awl) as I want to have a point to help me punch in a straight line. Nigel and also leathertoolz (on youtube) like Crimson Hide irons and Kevin Lee irons. Nigel likens the CH irons to a row of awls and that a beginner all the way to intermediate leather smith could use. Nigel hasn't done a review of Kevin Lee's Japanese style irons but really really liked the CH irons.... KL's are a little bit cheaper ($30 cheaper for a set of 2)... I was also thinking 3.85mm (7 SPI) or 4mm (6 SPI) for the spacing for my watch straps and possibly some small leather goods in the future. Anyone have thoughts on KL vs CH and also spacing or SPI for watch straps? Best, Neil Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted January 21, 2020 Contributing Member Report Posted January 21, 2020 afair You say you like the look of the larger spaced stitching - this could be 'you', your look, so go for a 6, its a good all-rounder as well. But also get a finer one, like 8 or 10 spi, small subjects like watch straps look better with a finer spi Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Members Tugadude Posted January 21, 2020 Members Report Posted January 21, 2020 18 hours ago, NeilMott said: Hey all. I couldn't really find another place that might be more appropriate to post. While I like the straight stitch I think there's a lot to be said for a traditional stitch with a slight angle. I tried casting while stitching (lock stitch) on these round dent irons and it gave a slight angle... I didn't mind it at all. I ended up watching Nigel's pricking/stitching iron reviews (nearly all of them, and some of them 2x) and I think I have a better sense of what I want. I also re-read what everyone posted and it makes way more sense than before. I'm leaning towards a Japanese type of chisel (to punch through leather - no awl) as I want to have a point to help me punch in a straight line. Nigel and also leathertoolz (on youtube) like Crimson Hide irons and Kevin Lee irons. Nigel likens the CH irons to a row of awls and that a beginner all the way to intermediate leather smith could use. Nigel hasn't done a review of Kevin Lee's Japanese style irons but really really liked the CH irons.... KL's are a little bit cheaper ($30 cheaper for a set of 2)... I was also thinking 3.85mm (7 SPI) or 4mm (6 SPI) for the spacing for my watch straps and possibly some small leather goods in the future. Anyone have thoughts on KL vs CH and also spacing or SPI for watch straps? Best, Neil Based on what I've seen on Nigel's videos and his written reviews on his website, I think if I were to buy a new set of irons for watch straps and other fine work, I'd go with the Kevin Lee 10 SPI French Pricking Irons. They look amazing, work great and would suit your purposes quite well I think. Quote
Members KJD2121 Posted January 21, 2020 Members Report Posted January 21, 2020 I have the Crimson Hides set (2 prong and 5 prong) of both the 3.0 and the 3.85. The 3.0 are very demanding of being punched in a straight line. 1/2mm off and it will show on the stitches. I have been using the 3.85's and really enjoy them. The quality is high (Very well polished) Quote
Members NeilMott Posted January 22, 2020 Author Members Report Posted January 22, 2020 I was thinking somewhere around 8 spi, as it's not too fine, not too big....As far as Japanese vs French/European style punches...I am really on the fence. I don't know what's normally done. I was leaning towards the Japanese irons as they have a point. So after marking the lines, the point goes in and lining up the punches is a dream. French ones would take a bit more care to line up. According to Ian Atkinson, 8-9 spi should use between 0.6mm to 0.8mm thread. For watch straps he suggests a higher spi with 0.5-0.6mm thread. My straps are a bit thicker so I think a slightly thicker thread is more appropriate... I used 0.6mm on my last strap and it looked good but I didn't want to go smaller... I'll revisit Kevin Lee's irons and watch Nigel's video again. I imagine I'll eventually end up with more than one set of irons, but for now these will need to be the "ones". Best, Neil Quote
Members NeilMott Posted January 22, 2020 Author Members Report Posted January 22, 2020 8 hours ago, KJD2121 said: I have the Crimson Hides set (2 prong and 5 prong) of both the 3.0 and the 3.85. The 3.0 are very demanding of being punched in a straight line. 1/2mm off and it will show on the stitches. I have been using the 3.85's and really enjoy them. The quality is high (Very well polished) Ah, great to know. I was thinking of ordering the 3.85mm irons. Nigel really really liked them and if people have a hard time telling them from Blanchard pricking irons, then it's a real well make product. Quote
Members NeilMott Posted January 24, 2020 Author Members Report Posted January 24, 2020 I've reached out to a few people about diamond vs French style irons, but they are super tight lipped about what they use... Here are a couple screen captures. Can a trained eye tell what type of irons they're using? Quote
Members chrisash Posted January 24, 2020 Members Report Posted January 24, 2020 (edited) The top image shows what looks like a diamond cut on the first stitch to the right and some of the others also show a straight edge towards the top right of the stitches Second imaGe looks like a french style pricking iron you can see the little slits Edited January 24, 2020 by chrisash Quote Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me
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