3D printed strap cutting spacers

[RockyAussie]

This is the latest 3D project I am working on that shows the advantage of being able to print spacers for strap cutting work to the exact size width and all the same. Recently I decided to make up a 22mm width spacer for some dress belt fillers in order to not have to muck about measuring up various width spacers every time I wanted to do it. As it worked so well I decided to do myself a heap of 38mm spacers for my strap cutter as well. Previously I have had to cut pipe to length and lathe the ends up and try and get them all the same width. The side wall thickness of the pipe was a little thinner than I would have liked and with the printed version that enabled me to give plenty of side wall thickness at the blade and still allow plenty of clearance in the middle. The pictures should tell the story better than me I think -

This is the 22mm spacer as printed

These 2 pics show it in use

This picture shows all of the 38mm spacers in place and note the differance in the side wall thickness of the old as against the new one.

I have an order to do around 1200 of the 38mm width straps to do at the moment so as soon as I get through them I will let you know if any problems develop.

Merry Christmas to you all

Brian

[toxo]

I think there's some smug in there somewhere Brian and why not! You're just an awesome fabricator.

On a serious note I'm guessingthere's quite a gene pool of innovative thinkers over there stretching back to the day when the only way you were gonna get it was to make it yourself.

 

[RockyAussie]

4 hours ago, toxo said:

I think there's some smug in there somewhere Brian and why not! You're just an awesome fabricator.

On a serious note I'm guessingthere's quite a gene pool of innovative thinkers over there stretching back to the day when the only way you were gonna get it was to make it yourself.

 

Still is I reckon but as the 38mm spacers cost $1.03c au to print including the electricity cost and the fact I can be working on something else as it does it comes into it as well.

[chrisash]

Lateral thinking at its best once again Brian, well done

[kgg]

Nice job. Interested in how they standup to use.

6 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Still is I reckon but as the 38mm spacers cost $1.03c au to print

What would be the cost of the real 38 mm spacers? I bet considerably more plus wait time.

kgg

[DrmCa]

How does the side fan help printing?

[RockyAussie]

11 hours ago, kgg said:

Nice job. Interested in how they standup to use.

What would be the cost of the real 38 mm spacers? I bet considerably more plus wait time.

kgg

Last time I checked was years ago and it was cheaper for me to make them from pipe and dress them up on my lathe. In Australia some things like this can fall into the "specialist" type thing with a Fspecialist price tag. May be different in the USA/Canada? Here you go buy a colour printer for less than the cost to fill it with ink next time.

31 minutes ago, DrmCa said:

How does the side fan help printing?

With the heated bed it can take 10 or 15 minutes to cool down enough to get the print job off of the plate so the fan speeds this up to about 1 minute. I just turn it on when the bell that lets me know its finished goes off. If I was truly a bit smarter I would set it up so that the fan switched on when the bell goes off.

[kgg]

1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

May be different in the USA/Canada? Here you go buy a colour printer for less than the cost to fill it with ink next time.

Same here when it comes to some of the printers. So we treat them like a Bic lighter and recycle to the trash heap.

kgg

[sbrownn]

On 12/19/2019 at 3:00 AM, kgg said:

Nice job. Interested in how they standup to use.

What would be the cost of the real 38 mm spacers? I bet considerably more plus wait time.

kgg

They don't have to do anything but space.  They will last forever...well until they end up in the landfill or oceans.

On 12/19/2019 at 2:20 PM, RockyAussie said:

Last time I checked was years ago and it was cheaper for me to make them from pipe and dress them up on my lathe. In Australia some things like this can fall into the "specialist" type thing with a Fspecialist price tag. May be different in the USA/Canada? Here you go buy a colour printer for less than the cost to fill it with ink next time.

With the heated bed it can take 10 or 15 minutes to cool down enough to get the print job off of the plate so the fan speeds this up to about 1 minute. I just turn it on when the bell that lets me know its finished goes off. If I was truly a bit smarter I would set it up so that the fan switched on when the bell goes off.

I can take the prints off of my bed as soon as the print is finished.  What is your bed temperature setting?

[sbrownn]

Here is a picture of the 3d printed forms I use to make a messenger bag.

[RockyAussie]

1 hour ago, sbrownn said:

I can take the prints off of my bed as soon as the print is finished.  What is your bed temperature setting?

For the PLA+ I use 65 degrees C and run the first layer a bit slower to get maximum adhesion and avoid any edge lifting. Aside from not wanting to get any rounding off of the edges when I take off the job or also don't want to upset my bed levelling by forcing it. 

[chrisash]

I would guess the room temperature will make a big difference in plate cooling time and also the size of the print on the bed

Edited December 21, 2019 by chrisash

[RockyAussie]

15 minutes ago, chrisash said:

I would guess the room temperature will make a big difference in plate cooling time and also the size of the print on the bed

That would be true as well as I keep in a small room with the door closed to keep the temp up. It helps it all connect together better I reckon. I never use any tape or hairspray or any other junk that I have to waste time cleaning up so for me the fastest way is what I do. A bigger platform would be great to get more on in the one print and Ultimaker bowden style that cuts out the need for any x + y base movement and ...and ... one day maybe

[chrisash]

My wish list would include a SLA printer but the low cost ones at present have very small print limitations, but the detail of print is superb but also limited on mixtures at present

Have a great Christmas all

[sbrownn]

14 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

For the PLA+ I use 65 degrees C and run the first layer a bit slower to get maximum adhesion and avoid any edge lifting. Aside from not wanting to get any rounding off of the edges when I take off the job or also don't want to upset my bed levelling by forcing it. 

Hmmm, that's almost exactly what I do and rather than let the bed cool down, I preheat my prints before removing them.   I have a Flashforge with the blue platform sticker and I use a super thin spatula with the end sharpened to break my prints loose.  

[chrisash]

I find if i force it off with the blade it takes force and can make it unlevel, but i guess different machines act different, mine is only a cheap Ender 3, but if I let it cool itself it seems to keep level for a month or two

[dikman]

My glass plate is clipped to the bed with a couple of spring binder clips. When the print is finished I remove the glass to loosen the print job. Works for me and doesn't affect the bed alignment.

[toxo]

On 12/18/2019 at 10:51 PM, RockyAussie said:

This is the latest 3D project I am working on that shows the advantage of being able to print spacers for strap cutting work to the exact size width and all the same. Recently I decided to make up a 22mm width spacer for some dress belt fillers in order to not have to muck about measuring up various width spacers every time I wanted to do it. As it worked so well I decided to do myself a heap of 38mm spacers for my strap cutter as well. Previously I have had to cut pipe to length and lathe the ends up and try and get them all the same width. The side wall thickness of the pipe was a little thinner than I would have liked and with the printed version that enabled me to give plenty of side wall thickness at the blade and still allow plenty of clearance in the middle. The pictures should tell the story better than me I think -

This is the 22mm spacer as printed

These 2 pics show it in use

This picture shows all of the 38mm spacers in place and note the differance in the side wall thickness of the old as against the new one.

I have an order to do around 1200 of the 38mm width straps to do at the moment so as soon as I get through them I will let you know if any problems develop.

Merry Christmas to you all

Brian

I have to smile when I think you can make maybe 50 belts in the time I can make one.

[sbrownn]

3 hours ago, chrisash said:

I find if i force it off with the blade it takes force and can make it unlevel, but i guess different machines act different, mine is only a cheap Ender 3, but if I let it cool itself it seems to keep level for a month or two

I'm wondering if it isn't the covering I use on the bed that makes it easier to get my prints off hot.  They are much harder to get off when they are cool.

1 hour ago, dikman said:

My glass plate is clipped to the bed with a couple of spring binder clips. When the print is finished I remove the glass to loosen the print job. Works for me and doesn't affect the bed alignment.

That seems like a good idea.  I have a glass plate for my machine but have yet to put it on.

43 minutes ago, toxo said:

I have to smile when I think you can make maybe 50 belts in the time I can make one.

What a wonderful old strap cutter.