Members Gregg From Keystone Sewing Posted January 10, 2020 Members Report Posted January 10, 2020 2 hours ago, CowboyBob said: IDK how many times we tried different bobbins from different suppliers for the 1541 & finally found some that are consistent.The black steel ones seem to be the worst. I can confirm that too. I've been having more and more problems with generic bobbins, and genuine tend to be pricey but are seeming to become more worth it. And it's not just about the bobbins that we are talking about in this one case. Quote Industrial sewing and cutting, parts sales and service, family owned since 1977, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA, 215/922.6900 info@keysew.com www.keysew.com
Members Bert51 Posted January 11, 2020 Members Report Posted January 11, 2020 12 hours ago, toxo said: On the bobbin winder spline that the bobbins go on there should be a split. Tap a screwdriver in the split and the spline will widen. The problem is toxo is that you have two lots of bobbins and when one lot fit perfectly and you paid good dollars for ones that don't, what do you do? The seller told me to do that, but they wobble and no longer wind evenly, I could not stop the wobble no matter what I tried as one end of an Adler 105 bobbin being held by 5mm, leaves the other 20 odd mm to flop about while being wound. I no longer use these over price bobbins and found some on Aliexpress that fit for a hell of less money. Bert. Quote
toxo Posted January 11, 2020 Report Posted January 11, 2020 I hear what you're saying Bert but I don't know enough to comment further. To me a bobbin is a bobbin is a bobbin. If they're wobbling I would have thought that would be a problem with the shaft rather than the bobbin. I can see where there might be a problem if the shaft is opened so much that it's only gripping on the end and I can see where you guys might have a beef if you've paid big bucks for new macines but on my old Durkop I would just open up the split, put something in the back end of the split and close the front with some pliers to get it back to parallel if that makes sense. Quote
RockyAussie Posted January 11, 2020 Report Posted January 11, 2020 13 minutes ago, toxo said: I would just open up the split, put something in the back end of the split and close the front with some pliers to get it back to parallel if that makes sense. Do that very carefully as I have done the same and broken off one of the sides when closing it back up. Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
toxo Posted January 11, 2020 Report Posted January 11, 2020 1 minute ago, RockyAussie said: Do that very carefully as I have done the same and broken off one of the sides when closing it back up. I can see where that could happen Brian. I suppose taking a file or some emery to it to reduce the high point at the front might work but you'd still have to open up the sline. Quote
kgg Posted January 11, 2020 Report Posted January 11, 2020 10 hours ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said: I've been having more and more problems with generic bobbins, and genuine tend to be pricey but are seeming to become more worth it. I would suggest just supplying the genuine bobbin or other items for the machine whoever the manufacturer is. When someone is buying a new machine, north of $1000, the cost difference between the clone bobbin and the genuine bobbin should be of no real dollar concern to the buyer. It shouldn't make or break a sale. The buyer, particularly new owners, are relying on the seller of the machine to provide proper functioning items. It must be frustrating for the seller of the machine as well as the buyer having to replace / return items due to quality control issues beyond the sellers control. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members Bert51 Posted January 11, 2020 Members Report Posted January 11, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, toxo said: I hear what you're saying Bert but I don't know enough to comment further. To me a bobbin is a bobbin is a bobbin. If they're wobbling I would have thought that would be a problem with the shaft rather than the bobbin. I can see where there might be a problem if the shaft is opened so much that it's only gripping on the end and I can see where you guys might have a beef if you've paid big bucks for new macines but on my old Durkop I would just open up the split, put something in the back end of the split and close the front with some pliers to get it back to parallel if that makes sense. The Adler 105 and most Singer 45 bobbins are 30 mm long, so if you open up the bobbin holder with a screw driver or similar, you are then holding the bobbin by the last 3 to 5 mm, the other 25 mm is just going to move about loosely on the shaft, or in my words wobble. I have tried to shim it, but then when I go to use my other bobbins, it becomes a pain in the you know where to wind bobbins. I no long use these bobbin and wrote them off to the school of hard knocks. I was told these would oem bobbins, yeah right. Bert. Edited January 11, 2020 by Bert51 Quote
Members Bmwmoa67707 Posted January 11, 2020 Author Members Report Posted January 11, 2020 To follow up on the bobbins with an overly large hole to fit on our new Juki 1541S, I called the seller and advised about the problem, and they are going to get me some that fit correctly, by fitting them on a like machine to confirm proper fit. Since Gregg from Keystone Sewing responded here on this thread, I will give a big "thank you" to Gregg and his staff, ie, Lois, (the nice lady who answered the phone), and she said that she would take care of it, and we would have bobbins that fit correctly in a few days. I must say that the communication, shipping and help with choosing the right machine and accessories.. working with Gregg and Lois, the whole experience was absolutely "FIRST CLASS!" Steve Quote
Members leecopp Posted January 11, 2020 Members Report Posted January 11, 2020 Hi Guys. I use a home made junk box built powered bobbin winder for all of my bobbins, mostly class 15 and size M . I mostly sew under foot treadle power and like the solid side bobbins so that I can write the thread size on them . I use the tip of a medium large zip tie to act as a wedge if the bobbin is too loose. Thanks for the tip about running the thread through the hole, I will give it a try. I typically wind a bunch of bobbins at a time and store them in a bobbin organizer case . Happy New to All.. Quote
CowboyBob Posted January 11, 2020 Report Posted January 11, 2020 13 hours ago, Bert51 said: The Adler 105 and most Singer 45 bobbins are 30 mm long, so if you open up the bobbin holder with a screw driver or similar, you are then holding the bobbin by the last 3 to 5 mm, the other 25 mm is just going to move about loosely on the shaft, or in my words wobble. I have tried to shim it, but then when I go to use my other bobbins, it becomes a pain in the you know where to wind bobbins. I no long use these bobbin and wrote them off to the school of hard knocks. I was told these would oem bobbins, yeah right. Bert. You need to get the correct bobbin winder w/a longer shaft. Quote Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. 3631 Marine Rd Toledo,Ohio 43609 1-866-362-7397
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