PFAFF 335 project

[DanishMan]

As mentioned in the beginning, the machine was incomplete.

As most of you know, PFAFF parts are extremely expensive to get. The plan is to find the missing parts down the road.

While taking the machine apart, I found the "tilting bracket" to be broken in the corner.

Edited March 25, 2020 by DanishMan

[DanishMan]

Fortunately I had an old PFAFF 27, which I was parting out.

I could use the bracket from that one. However the screws were stupendously tight - heating etc had no effect, so I had to drill out the screws at the end.

 

[DanishMan]

[iron1951]

Thanks for the post. I might not say too much, but I will be following along.

[DanishMan]

Hi Iron

You are welcome. I am not progressing that quick - at least not until now, where I am laid off due to corona.

I would like the paint to harden for a few weeks, before I continue the work.

I am also about to finish a PFAFF 545, and I am about to receive an old PFAFF 145 from Germany (black one). 

So all in all, I have enough to do.

Cheers

DanishMan

[shoepatcher]

Danish man,

One thing you might consider is using some generic parts on the machine.  Copies of the 335 are out there as are parts.  Just a thought.  Certainly something to consider.

glenn

[DanishMan]

Hi Shoepatcher

I might consider som parts from China, but I prefer older original parts, if I can find them.

But right now China is closed due to corona.

Brgds

Danishman

[DanishMan]

Today I have been working on a PFAFF 145, which I am converting into a 545. I still need some parts from Germany, but the should arrive soon.

Secondly I have been looking at the 335, which I painted about three weeks ago. The painting was overall very good.

As mentioned in the beginning, the machine has a small damage. It is an old machine, and the side cover is attached by only one screw, whereas most newer machines has three. As can be seen on the photo, the structure has been damaged around the screw hole.

Is it possible to repair this at all?

Brgds

DanishMan

[jimi]

If that is the newly painted machine Soren then you might consider JB weld, I think that would work, then drill and tap again. Or if you have a plate with three screw holes and the casting has the place where they go and not drilled yet, you could drill and tap them and have the three screws holding on the plate???

[BattleAx]

Very nice...

[iron1951]

DanishMan, its hard to tell but are there threads in the hole? I'm thinking of pressing a pin in with threads. The JB weld is a good idea too. You may want to go with a stud and use a nut on your cover. That way you are not working the hole every time you remove the cover.

[DanishMan]

Hi Jimi

I had a similar 335 with only one hole to attach the side cover. I drilled two more holes and fitted the lifting device with the power exchange.

I am not sure though, that I will do the same on this one.

I will take a look into the JB Weld. I have never heard about it.

I will post a few more pictures tomorrow. I am happy with the outcome of the painting.

Take care

Soren

 

BattleAx and Iron1951

Thank you for your inputs

[jimi]

41 minutes ago, DanishMan said:

I will take a look into the JB Weld. I have never heard about it.

Hi Soren, Yes the paint looks Nice.. This leg was missing on a 45k92 i bought and the break was right in the middle of the threaded hole for the bottom bar, so i drilled 4 small holes then put some SS threaded rods in them and filled it with JB weld. The middle hole was plugged with wax to the approx diameter leaving enough for the other half of the thread to be made and then i made a casing from thin plastic sheets taped around the leg and filled it up with JB weld. then i used a tap to make the other half of the thread. JB weld sets like a rock!

[DanishMan]

I had second thought about the painting, so I started all over again. The paint tended to flake off.

Using my bench grinder.

 

 

[jimi]

47 minutes ago, DanishMan said:

I had second thought about the painting, so I started all over again. The paint tended to flake off.

Using my bench grinder.

Just an observation Soren?? I was looking at your pictures just now...... did you tape up the machined areas??

 

[DanishMan]

Hi Jimi

Yes I did

 

[jimi]

[DanishMan]

Yesterday, I spent the entire day on the  PFAFF 335

I have never painted a sewing machine before, so I am still in the learning phase.

After grinding down the machine a couple of weeks ago, I primed it with Hammorite primer. The result was pretty good, and after sanding it with fine sandpaper the machine was smooth.  I then decided to use silver metal hammorite using a brush. The result was not good, as the layer became too thick.

I sanded the machine, and then sprayed it with black smooth Hammorite. The result was very good - or so I thought.

After leaving the machine for two weeks, I started working on it three days ago. I had to remove a two screws, that had accidentally been painted over, and the surrounding paint came off in small flakes. When I sanded the machine before the black paint, I also partly removed the primer.

Now what to do??? I saw no other way, than to start all over again.

It too almost three hours to remove all the pain - using a bench grinder, a drilling machine with a steel brush, and a dremel with a milling drill.

Before priming it i used a gas burner to remove water in the cast metal. Condensation is also a likely reason for paint not sticking properly.

Then priming it two times, and now ready for applying black paint again.

[Constabulary]

I`m always using rattle cans for painting machine castings

When ever possible I would leave on the old paint as long as there is not too much rust or the paint is badly flaking off. There is no better primer than the old sewing machine paint - especially the old black paint.

BTW - make sure you remove the paint from the contact areas between top and bottom fasting and so forth...

Edited April 6, 2020 by Constabulary

[dikman]

The last time I was silly enough to repaint a sewing machine I used a gel-type chemical paint stripper to remove the old paint. It took two or three applications in some areas but it worked great.

[iron1951]

I also have used paint stripper. Works well. I use steel wool with the stripper too. If you check my post "Oops I Broke It" 

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/89004-oops-i-broke-it/

I have pics of my stripped machine. I think fresh paint strips easier than old paint.

 

[DanishMan]

I am putting the newly painted 335 together again.

However, I encountered a problem. 

When taking the machine apart, I had to ruin the four main screws, as the were rediculously tight.

When try to use main screws - from a PFAFF 146, they do not fit.

Are there different main screws - with different  threads?

Kind regards

DanishMan

[shoepatcher]

Yes.  Different screws for different heads.  I hope they were a standard metric screw.

glenn

[DanishMan]

Hi Shoepatcher

I recently bought an old machine in Germany.

It was supposed to be an old 145, but it turned out to be a 142 - (there was only photo, that did not show the entire machine).

Now it turns out, that I can use many parts from this machine. Today I salvaged the main screws, which are a fraction smaller than on later machines. Also the screws attaching the stitch length mechanism, are of different size, than on later machines. I was puzzled, as my machine was originally green - but probably an early one. The ones from the black 142 also fitted my machine.

I encountered another  problem, that I was not able to solve..

The original main shaft was bend, and I replaced it with the main shaft from a newer 142, that I bought last year (for only 15 USD).  Everything went fine, until trying to fit the take up lever. The machine rotates smoothly until inserting the bolt into the take up lever. Then something goes wrong, and the take up lever causes too much friction. I tried to replace the bolt, the take up lever and even the main shaft. Same result every time.

Any suggestions to the nature of the problem?

Kind regards

DanishMan

D

[DanishMan]

By the way - it is not a bolt going into the take up lever - it is a pin.