toxo Report post Posted March 13, 2020 (edited) Where to start? I know enough to take what a dealer says with a pinch of salt and I will be on the phone tomorrow. I made him check the needle to edge and he said 7mm. I also asked him the sewing thickness of veg tan and he said 12mm. The foot lift is 15mm. Harry Rogers uses a Tysew on youtube and it looks ok but frustratingly it doesn't show the model number. Check the end of the cylinder at 9:10 mins in. The Monte Carlo bag is 2mm Bridle and 2.4mm veg tan. Not that it matters, it's all hand stitched but your point is taken Brian and I'm glad you guys are keeping me on point. I can't afford to buy a lemon. After what you guys said I had another look at Harrys machine and it does look like a binder plate on top doesn't it? Edited March 13, 2020 by toxo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toxo Report post Posted March 13, 2020 1 hour ago, Matt S said: @Toxo, if you really want a bone/but, and at risk of being a negative Nelly... it's still a Chinese clone of the 335 (the old casting, too) and 50% higher than your initial budget! Plus I'm typically dubious about salespeople who instantly drop the price -- makes me think that the item was either overpriced to begin with or they desperately need to clear inventory. However, knowing the demographic that Tysew typically sells to, I would not be surprised if a certain "expected/automatic discount" to be built into the pricing structure so ::shrug::. Do you envisage needing the 50mm "nose" of a small cylinder machine, or would a 75mm "nose" large cylinder machine do? Large cylinders tend to have larger bobbins and 4-motion feed dogs -- there's really not much real-estate inside a small cylinder arm. Some large cylinder machines have a narrowing of the end, where you can smoosh the work into a different shape and sew very close to the edge. or a fairly small radius. Like this example Brian showed to page 1: If you do end up coming round this side of the M25 give me a shout, I'm about halfway between Konsew and Tysew. There'll be a brew and a biscuit waiting for you (and maybe, if you're lucky, a go on some of my machines...) Alternatively if you're looking for a decent dealer a bit closer to you try Maury Sewing in Bethnal Green. Old fashioned place that I've never managed to drag myself to, as I know I'd be remortgaging the cat if I did so, he gets his hands on some amazing gear that I would covet like the nerd I am. Highly recommended to me by several people who I hold in great esteem. I may take you up on that cuppa Matt. PM me your number. I did notice a Bethnal Green number among my searching and I meant to give them a call but when I tried to find them again I couldn't. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted March 13, 2020 1 hour ago, toxo said: After what you guys said I had another look at Harrys machine and it does look like a binder plate on top doesn't it? No at about 9minutes in you can not see the tab sticking through as I showed in the earlier pictures which I would take that machine to be a oscillating feed dog set up. Also a binder top plate usually has a series of prongs sticking up to feed the tape through with a little tension. Note also that Harry is doing this without a lining and skiving is also quite apparent. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted March 13, 2020 I would say that the machine Harry is using is the same one, but it does have an oscillating feed dog. If you watch the cutout to the right of the needle you can see the round bit (screw?) moving up, down, back and forth. IF you go to look at it and feel it is suitable make sure it has the oscillating feed dog. There's no doubt it will do what you want but as Brian said the potential limiting factor may ultimately be clearance under the feet. I have an old casting 335 and have actually increased the working clearance under the feet BUT mine has a manual thread tension release, because what happens is that as the foot lifts higher it operates the tension release at the top of each stroke IF you have the normal automatic pin release. So don't let anyone tell you it's a simple matter to increase the clearance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted March 13, 2020 (edited) also - do you notice the beeeeeeeep sound while he is sewing? It comes from the motor - I had one of these "beeeper" servo motors and I found it totally annoying and sold the motor. I could not stand it on longer projects. back then seller said it will disappear - but it did not! So check what motor you will have on the machine. Edited March 13, 2020 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted March 13, 2020 Motors off the machine give you far more flexibility for the future if you need to get a new one rather than a built in version Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toxo Report post Posted March 13, 2020 3 hours ago, Constabulary said: also - do you notice the beeeeeeeep sound while he is sewing? It comes from the motor - I had one of these "beeeper" servo motors and I found it totally annoying and sold the motor. I could not stand it on longer projects. back then seller said it will disappear - but it did not! So check what motor you will have on the machine. I had to have another look Folker. I never noticed it before but I can see where it would annoy. I wonder if they're all the same? Is it definitely the motor and not the machine? If it's the motor there may be a £130 discount for a machine sans motor and a call to College machines! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toxo Report post Posted March 13, 2020 1 hour ago, chrisash said: Motors off the machine give you far more flexibility for the future if you need to get a new one rather than a built in version Absolutely Chris. And I don't want to lose the ability to put a bigger pulley on the hand wheel. Harry has speed reduction pulleys on that machine in the video. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toxo Report post Posted March 13, 2020 Another twist. Just spoke to Maury in London. He has a Durkopp 269 and a Adler 069. After a quick search I found this Adler 069 on ebay which is probably the same one. Waiting for pics of both. Pros and cons please over the tysew? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/durkopp-adler-069-Walking-Foot/223580347023 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toxo Report post Posted March 13, 2020 More news. Apparently the Tysew I've been looking at is a copy of the Juki DSC 245. It's the same as the Wimsew 245 and the Japsew DSC 245. He has a Japsew in the shop at the moment. I'll take a trip to JT Batchelor early next week and call in to take a look at these machines. Matt. if you want that cuppa why not meet up there? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt S Report post Posted March 13, 2020 9 hours ago, Constabulary said: also - do you notice the beeeeeeeep sound while he is sewing? It comes from the motor - I had one of these "beeeper" servo motors and I found it totally annoying and sold the motor. I could not stand it on longer projects. back then seller said it will disappear - but it did not! So check what motor you will have on the machine. 5 hours ago, toxo said: I had to have another look Folker. I never noticed it before but I can see where it would annoy. I wonder if they're all the same? Is it definitely the motor and not the machine? If it's the motor there may be a £130 discount for a machine sans motor and a call to College machines! That was the servo that Wimsew used to supply with their machines. I had one, and it beeped. No speed limiter or provision for EPS/NPS either. They now supply Jack servos with their machines IIRC. 4 hours ago, toxo said: Just spoke to Maury in London. He has a Durkopp 269 and a Adler 069. After a quick search I found this Adler 069 on ebay which is probably the same one. Pros and cons please over the tysew? Adler 69 is pretty much a Pfaff 335 -- small cylinder with 2-motion/oscillating feed dogs and relatively small H-size bobbin. Adler 269 is more of a Singer 153/Seiko CW8/Cowboy 227 -- a larger 75mm nose with larger M-type bobbins and a 4-motion/elliptical feed. You'll likely have about a 7mm distance from the end of the arm to the needle with both of these, unless they're some special subclass or modification. The 69 will probably top out at TKT40/V69 thread and the 269 TXT20/V138 thread, but both can probably go up another size in the needle, or maybe top and bottom with a timing tweak. You'll probably get about about 9-10mm sewing capacity in the 269, and a few mm less in the 69. You can see scans of the original brochures for these machines here:http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Leaflets_Adler/Leaflets_Adler_Class_69.pdfhttp://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Leaflets_Adler/Leaflets_Adler_class_269.pdf One advantage that these have over the Tysew, Typical and Global machines is that they were German made. German engineering speaks for itself. Quality of manufacture in a sewing machine leads to less noise/vibration in use, less "walking out" of settings, easier accessory compatibility, easier adjustment and less chance for parts to bend, break or strip screw threads. 2 hours ago, toxo said: Apparently the Tysew I've been looking at is a copy of the Juki DSC 245. It's the same as the Wimsew 245 and the Japsew DSC 245. He has a Japsew in the shop at the moment. I'll take a trip to JT Batchelor early next week and call in to take a look at these machines. Matt. if you want that cuppa why not meet up there? I had a Wimsew W246 for a while. It's definitely an improvement in features over a 335-type machine, in that it has a small 50mm nose but a larger M-size bobbin, a 4-motion/elliptical feed dog and is happy with TKT20/V138 thread. On a real Juki I'm sure it works excellently but the example I had (which had been much abused by a previous owner) certainly wasn't up to Juki quality. Perhaps I got a lemon, perhaps the the water and welding spark damage the previous owner did to it tipped it over the edge, perhaps they improved their quality since. However it's not something that I want to invest my money or remaining sanity into any time soon. Yes let's meet up and visit Maury. I need to go to Batchelor's next week anyway. I'll PM you my number tonight. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silverd Report post Posted March 20, 2020 What bobbin type (L or M) does the 335 use? Silverd Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted March 20, 2020 Pfaff 335 came with different size hooks, the new type is using larger bobbins. I think both have approx 22mm diameter but the new bobbins are a bit higher by afaik 3-4mm or so. So I think neither L nor M - rather G I´d say but not 100% sure of the exact type Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt S Report post Posted March 21, 2020 According to Threadexchange the 335 takes a H bobbin. I assume that's the older/smaller hook version. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
