Help! My machine is misbehaving.

[mrdabeetle]

I'm using a Singer Heavy Duty 4452. I'm making a leather bodice. It has been sewing perfectly for the 4oz. outer leather, but when I try to sew the 1oz. lining, the thread starts birdnesting on the bobbin side and ripping at the needle eye. I've tried adjusting the tension. I've changed the needle to a new one. I have checked the bobbin orientation and re-threaded the machine. The only other thing I can think of is the timing, but the needle seems to be in the right place when looking through the bobbin case. I've been sewing stage costumes for 10 years, but don't do much machine sewing leather. Please help if you know what I'm not seeing. I've been fighting this thing all day and the project is overdue.

[Wizcrafts]

If there is any means of adjusting the check spring, try lengthening its throw a bit to keep the top thread under some tension as the take-up lever and needle move down. If that spring lets the thread loose too soon it can get under the point of the needle and shred.

Does a decent loop form as the needle begins to ascend from BDC? If not you might try retarding the timing a few degrees to see if you can get a bigger loop for the hook to pick off.

Are you using a leather point needle? What size is the needle? What type and size is the thread?

There is a handy needle and thread chart here.

[dikman]

This is a domestic sewing machine and they are known to have issues when sewing leather, particularly harder veg tanned. Are you talking about adding the lining to the outer leather?

[CowboyBob]

Looping underneath is always upper thread either too loose or incorrectly threaded,with a home machine you could be using a thread to large for it can also cause looping.So double check the threading & then keep tighten the top needle tension as far as you need to get it to stop looping.

[mrdabeetle]

 

11 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

If there is any means of adjusting the check spring, try lengthening its throw a bit to keep the top thread under some tension as the take-up lever and needle move down. If that spring lets the thread loose too soon it can get under the point of the needle and shred.

Does a decent loop form as the needle begins to ascend from BDC? If not you might try retarding the timing a few degrees to see if you can get a bigger loop for the hook to pick off.

Are you using a leather point needle? What size is the needle? What type and size is the thread?

There is a handy needle and thread chart here.

Needle size is 18/110. Thread is Z69 nylon. I'll take a look at the machine again and see if I can give you more accurate info.

[Pintodeluxe]

Why is it that when machines say "Heavy Duty" they rarely are.  Same story with power tools.  If it says Heavy Duty, I run the other way. 

If you post a couple pictures of the stitching on the top and bottom, as well as the thread path, I'm sure the experts here can give you some things to try.

Any time I've tried to sew leather with a non-walking foot machine, it didn't go well.  

[Ferg]

mrdabeetle

I have  a Singer Domestic machine among my selection. I tried #69 thread with all kinds of difficulties in FABRIC. They simply do not like anything larger than #46.

With a leather needle they will sew thin leather, 1mm or less, and possibly work with #40 thread and all purpose needle.

Try next smaller thread in Bobbin than the #46 such as #40.

TENSION, TENSION, TENSION. Every time I have a thread/sewing problem, Bob at Toledo tells me it is the tension, dummy!!!!!! LOL

Ferg

 

[Wizcrafts]

The problem with using industrial threads in domestic sewing machines is that they weren't designed with suitable shuttle clearances and tension springs. Also, the thread top tensioner is usually different and is expecting to have cotton, polyester, or polycore thread wrapped around it. Bonded nylon thread throws a wrench into the works because it isn't as flexible.

That typed (as opposed to "said"), I have had good success running #69 (T70) bonded nylon thread in Singer Class 15 and Class 127 machines. I've had less success with Class 66 and 221 machines. When I was repairing domestic machines as a sideline, I never tried testing a plastic body machine with nylon thread. It caused too much trouble and home sewing customers don't usually have industrial thread.

[Bert51]

My daughter was having problems with her plastic fantastic machine and when I was playing with it, I could feel the plastic twisting under my hands as I sewed. She had to much tension on it.

I offered her one of my 16's, but she told there no good they only do straight stitching, she's right of coarse, but at least they stitch all day every day.

Bert.

[dikman]

That's why my domestic machine is an old Singer 201, all metal and almost bulletproof!

[mrdabeetle]

I opened up the machine and the set screw on the timing shaft has moved a couple of millimeters. (marks can be seen where it has been moved) I moved it back into the deepest mark made by the set screw and tested a scrap of 6oz. veg tan. It stitched perfectly, so I tried stitching the garment leather again and it stitched fine until I got to where the leather is folded over where seams join and it skips stitches again. It isn't birdnesting anymore, but it is skipping stitches.

[dikman]

Personally, I think that you're asking the poor little machine to do more than it was designed for. Realistically, you're getting into the realms of industrial machines.

[Bert51]

I think you may have reached the limit of your machine, most of us have done it at some time and now it might your time to move to a heavier machine.

Sadly they are not cheap and I found the first one hard to justify, but you will be able to sew what you want to.

Many great people here will help you if you think you need more information.

Bert.

[Northmount]

21 hours ago, mrdabeetle said:

It isn't birdnesting anymore, but it is skipping stitches.

Thicker seams tends to grab the needle and lift the presser foot on the up-stroke, collapsing the loop so the hook can't grab it.  Try increasing the spring compression on the presser foot.

Tom

[DonInReno]

I’d agree with others that your machine isn’t up to what you’re asking of it.

An older all metal domestic machine out of the 50s, 60s, or 70s can be found in slightly used condition at thrift stores for under $50 that is much more capable.

Better yet is an older commercial machine that can be had for almost the same price, but you’ll need to be a little mechanically inclined to get it adjusted - I see one every month that someone inherits or they are tired of and they just want it gone.