Two coin pouches and some questions

[Retswerb]

In my experience people may not be expecting the zig zag stitch but if it is done well they love it. If anyone questions it you can say it’s a sign of handmade stitching done with skill and care.

[Alaisiagae]

I pulled out and redid the stitching on the brown pouch, got it to mostly zigzag correctly except for that errant vertical hole (facepalm). Having my stitching pony would have been helpful! But it's not quite ready to be used until my dad and I finish putting varnish on it (he insisted on using the slow drying varnish with an air brush, which I have no idea how to use), it needs one more coat.

[tsunkasapa]

I would add; Use an awl and lose the chisels. You will NEVER regret it!!!!!

[Tugadude]

4 hours ago, jcuk said:

Try a single head knife a lot less daunting than a double head knife/round knife spend a day cutting shapes out of scrap leather also pratice skiving with it just remember to keep you're free hand behind the cutting edge, it is the right tool for the job. Be mindful of some of of the videos on youtube of people using a round knife, have to say some frighten me watching them. There is another knife that might be easier for you working with lighter weight of leather  its called a clicker knife but it is a a pull cut type of knife.

single head head knife

https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/saddlers-head-knife

clicker knife the curved blade, good for tight corners.

https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/extension-clicker-handle

Hope this helps 

JCUK

 

The quote attributed to me is incorrect.  That is what the OP said.

[fredk]

10 hours ago, Alaisiagae said:

Do you think I should get more leather and try again? Or do you think these are okay enough to be gifts? . . . .

1. No. not really, but practice does make us better at this lark

2. Yes, but slick those edges first

[Danne]

Regarding the cutting. To avoid the leather stretching make one primary shallow cut and make sure to put some extra pressure on your ruler (or template) at the end of the cut. When you have made your first primary cut you make one or more cuts until you go through the leather. And make sure you always have a sharp knife. If you use as "snap-off knife" I like Olfa Black max blades. 

Regarding the stitching, personally I think it looks best with a stitch where you cast the thread, but there are several factors that decide what you should do. I give a couple of examples.

If you stitch a pocket edge and the back side of the stitching is inside the pocket (not visible) then it's better to stitch "regular" without casting the thread. (Especially if it's thin leather)

If I stitch a top edge on a wallet and the total thickness is around 1.3-1.5mm and I use let's say red thread and the exterior is black and interior red, I would stitch without cast, inside will be straight, but the exterior will have a similar look all the way around.

Let's instead take my latest wallets I shared here with black exterior and orange interior and the outer stitch is black, here I choose to cast all the way around (stitched from the outside) Why, and how? I cast and I don't use extreme angles when I tension the thread which gives me a nice slant on the inside (where I have a large contrast between leather and thread. On the exterior top part the stitch straightens out because it's relatively thin, but since the thread have the same color as the leather it still looks good. Is it possible to stitch a edge around 1.5-2mm  in total thickness with a nice slant on both sides? yes with thinner thread in combination with slim holes, or with (X-punching, punched holes with the same iron from both sides before assemble and stitch without cast) And it's even possible with slightly thicker thread (which for me is 0.45-0.51mm (Two weights of thread from Meisi and Sajou) but it's not easy, and requires different tension angles and tension depending on the stiffness of the leather you are using.

I always decide what will get the best result. Let's say I would make a super thin strap around 1.5-1.8mm and I use a thread with the thickness around 0.3-0.35mm the exterior is red, and lining is black, and I stitch with black thread, I would not cast the thread to make sure I get a nice even slanted front on my strap. A straight stitch on the back side doesn't have to look bad if you are consistent (and when you stitch a new type of leather make a test piece where you try different angles and tension. I hope this help a little bit (Ps. I still struggle with stitching, sometimes the result is really good, other times it doesn't really look like I wish it would, but NEVER change tension angles while you stitch if you are not satisfied, a consistent stitch is still the most important part. 

[Alaisiagae]

21 minutes ago, fredk said:

1. No. not really, but practice does make us better at this lark

2. Yes, but slick those edges first

I tried using gum trag on a spare piece, and the edge just wouldn't slick like veg tan. 

@Danne what does "cast" mean in this context?

@jcuk the knives look good! I wish that single head was sold in the US, shipping from UK costs as much as the knife.

Edited September 18, 2020 by Alaisiagae

[Danne]

I forgot to say something. A perfect result is not the important part, BUT to always try to improve is important. When you have made something, and you look at it and see a couple of things you feel you need to improve, you don't need to improve everything, instead focus on one thing, and think through "How can I improve this?" if you feel unsure, maybe take some small off cuts and make some test pieces, like cutting a small rounded corner and mark it with your wing divider and stitch it. And in a year you can look back and compare and you will see how much you have improved. 

Also the second coin pouch with the pronounced grain makes it harder for you, choose a flat leather like a slightly stiffer flat veg tan, which will be a lot easier to work with.

[fredk]

5 minutes ago, Alaisiagae said:

I tried using gum trag on a spare piece, and the edge just wouldn't slick like veg tan. 

try rubbing some bees wax on it.

Place the pouch down on a board or slab with just a couple of millimetres sticking over the edge. Hold it down really tight with one hand and with the other run a block of beeswax along the edge.

Edited September 18, 2020 by fredk

[Danne]

4 minutes ago, Alaisiagae said:

I tried using gum trag on a spare piece, and the edge just wouldn't slick like veg tan. 

@Danne what does "cast" mean in this context?

@jcuk the knives look good! I wish that single head was sold in the US, shipping from UK costs as much as the knife.

Here in the first and second stitch he show the difference between not casting the thread and casting the thread. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQK8R0oYT8o