Newbie query on lining billfold and making ID pocket

[MsEdna]

On 11/26/2020 at 2:36 PM, PhilDimashq said:

@Rahere thank you very much for your constructive comment.

I've read great things about roo hide, but can't get any where I am at a reasonable price.

There's going to be an ID pocket located as per my drawing because that's what my brother has asked me for.

It would be so much easier to leave it out but I'm going to try my best to do what he wants. If anything, it will be another learning experience as every project is.

I've just got veg tan, and it's about 1.2mm thick.

If I had lighter leather, I'd take two pieces and cut out a window in each, then sandwich the plastic in between, sew around the window and that would become the front of the pocket. This would be sewn onto a back piece, making the pocket.

However, when assembled like this the pocket alone will then be 3 layers and approx 3.6 mm which will be very thick.

I don't think this will work and this is why I was asking for advice on the ID pocket. 

Still very new to this, and the wallet shown in my post is only my eight project and first attempt at a billfold.

I have done my research, looked at lots of videos and spent hours looking at other people's work but sometimes you just don't find the answers.

So I dropped my question in here hoping for some guidance.

I'm also unsure whether to line both sides of the cash/bills pocket and the techniques for doing so.

I've seen loads of examples of finished pieces but not much "how to" so any guidance on the pros/cons of doing this and/or techniques would be greatly appreciated.

All the best and thanks once again,

Phil

 

 

it's probably a bit late, but you can get leather in any thickness from https://www.aacrack.co.uk . Thing is, you need to buy at least 3 hides in order for them to skive them (all need to be the same thickness. It will cost you a bit extra but is still cheaper than ordering from the US. I have not used their services yet, just to let you know.

what I have used is buyleatheronline.com. They will skive veg tan down to 0.8 mm free of charge. I can highly recommend them. 

I wish I would find 0.4 mm somewhere in Europe. Seems to be an impossible task. 

 

Edited April 30, 2021 by MsEdna

[jimi]

7 hours ago, MsEdna said:

I wish I would find 0.4 mm somewhere in Europe. Seems to be an impossible task. 

Maybe someone with a bell skiver could get it to 0.4, the individual pieces i mean, not a large hide? I usually thin down my gussets to about that on the skiver. This is how it ends up.

[MsEdna]

4 hours ago, jimi said:

Maybe someone with a bell skiver could get it to 0.4, the individual pieces i mean, not a large hide? I usually thin down my gussets to about that on the skiver. This is how it ends up.

Yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about! I was thinking about getting a bell skiver but was warned that it would leave marks on veg tan. What is your experience? Thank you Jimi for the pics, great folded edges!

[fredk]

13 hours ago, MsEdna said:

I wish I would find 0.4 mm somewhere in Europe. Seems to be an impossible task. 

I don't know if this helps any. I've been getting very thin leathers off this chap. Check out each piece for thickness. I get them and use them as is for lining but with a bit of cleaning down and re-dyeing the colours can be changed

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Other-Leathercraft-Accessories/160670/m.html?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEFSXS%3AMESOI&_ssn=bel-fred&_sop=15

[fredk]

extra. I bought one of these skiver things a couple of years ago. I've never used it. I must get a round tuit. I need to find somewhere to set it up. It cost me all of about £24. It might do the job of skiving the edges?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284202705458?hash=item422bcd2232:g:fSwAAOSwI7ZgbXEJ

[jimi]

10 hours ago, MsEdna said:

Yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about! I was thinking about getting a bell skiver but was warned that it would leave marks on veg tan. What is your experience? Thank you Jimi for the pics, great folded edges!

Thanks MsEdna, Yes you can do it with veg tan and yes it can mark the leather, it is important that all the edges are smooth on the foot to eliminate any possibility of a line or scar. I am looking for a good roller foot, as the cheap ones have not worked well for me, to see if i can get even less marks, but what i get at the moment i can live with it. Even just the pressure of the foot can leave a mark on the veg tanned leather and the sewing machine foot also so it is not the easiest to work with for this reason. The slanted side pockets are skived around the edge, the three slit one also and the bottom corners of the separation then the outside part gets skived all around quite thin for folding, the top having a wider skive as its turns over and comes inside and the rest of the sides cover the outside. Here are some pictures of the ones i have done in horse leather and oiled calf.

These are some of the marks left but are mainly pressure marks from the sewing machine.

This is after 2-3 yrs use, the inside is less exposed so takes longer to darken.

Edited May 1, 2021 by jimi

[jimi]

[jimi]

Mmmm..yeah i should have creased the edges on this one 

I get the impression people think this is skimping or cheating or tricking people into thinking that this is all leather inside......well i would say, one day they will eventually get to this point if they do not want a BRICK in their pocket!! The reason the lining is there is to cut down bulk after the cards are put inside, not to save on leather!!

[RockyAussie]

Exactly

Hey jimi ..just a little tip mate ...warm your corners with a heat gun and lightly give them a little push and roll with a slicker. You will get a nice closed up rounding that way.

 

[jimi]

11 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

Exactly

Hey jimi ..just a little tip mate ...warm your corners with a heat gun and lightly give them a little push and roll with a slicker. You will get a nice closed up rounding that way.

 

Thanks for the tip Brian, much appreciated and great to hear from you again!!