When do I punch?

[Dogfisher]

I decided to learn about dying veg tan yesterday so I cut out a flap wallet pattern and I created my first beautiful sunburst, oiled it nicely and then I tried to punch stitch holes. It was stiff and the leather cracked on the edges and between the holes. I do a lot of trial and error style learning as I imagine most of you do as well. I'm assuming my process is not in the right order. I would love some advice about your processes. When do I cut out pattern,  punch stitching holes, stamp the makers mark, dampen the leather for dying, when to oil, , when to finish the edges, when to stitch, etc. I used a cheap diamond chisel from a cheapy set. Probably part of the problem. Also, I came of my stitch line because I attempted to punch it folded, without glue. Rookie mistake.

Edited January 30, 2021 by Dogfisher
Added info.

[YinTx]

Shoulda worked fine in that order.  I've not had cracking like that when I stitch mark, so maybe the irons?  Or maybe not the best leather?  Stitch marking folded would be an issue.  With or without glue should not matter.

YinTx

[fredk]

That looks a bit like blunt stitching chisels points. Make sure they are razor sharp and also polish the sides.

[Aven]

What do you punch on?

[Dogfisher]

These are some crappy stitching chisels out of a kit. They are black and not polished at all and I think they are too close together. I don't want to buy more until I really know why I don't like these. Good tools area big investment and I'm still just learning. I am going to try oil dyes on my next test to see if it keeps the leather softer and less likely to crack. 

[Dogfisher]

Help me upgrade my setup. What's a reasonably priced set of stitching chisels or pricks? How close do I need the holes for saddle stitching?

[battlemunky]

I'd never experienced tearing like that with my set of cheap diamond punches but I'd polished mine up the best I could too. I did get some ugly holes on the exit side.

As far as punch recommendations, I have Sinabroks which are excellent...they are not inexpensive though but are basically perfect in every way making them worth it to me. Reasonable price, maybe not, but these exceed my desires every use.

That sucks though man, that starburst looks great.

[jcuk]

It looks like you have slightly missed your stitching line and tried to correct it by forcing it back onto the line, do place your chisel in one former prick mark if you do go back two it will help kept it on a straight line.

Hope this helps

JCUK

[Dogfisher]

 Sinabroks would be nice. Still on a startup budget, however. What's a good stitch length for saddle stitching? Also, how the heck do you polish the black matte diamond chisels? They are crappy. The missed stitching groove was an attempt to punch the wallet folded. Bad choice.

[mike02130]

Any size is the right size.  For wallets 3mm or 3.38mm works well.  Use .5mm or smaller thread.