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chrisash

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kunpengsewingmachineparts-for-uk. chinese company selling hook parts on ebay

Edited by Northmount
Fixed typo in title

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This KUNPENG seller has several Ebay accounts (Germany, US, UK...).

I have good experiences. Shipping always is was tracked and items are very well packed. Takes approx 2-4 weeks to arrive (on my side of the channel).

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Many thanks

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I haven't had any bad experiences with them either. But, I don't interact as often nowadays.

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I've ordered off them before. Their parts are generally pretty good and prices reasonable. Don't order anything you're in a hurry for though, I think their packages are delivered by packsnail.

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I’ve ordered a few things from them without any issue.   I’m currently waiting for hooks, take up levers and case openers for big bobbin conversions on a pair of 111w155s.

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3 hours ago, DonInReno said:

I’ve ordered a few things from them without any issue.   I’m currently waiting for hooks, take up levers and case openers for big bobbin conversions on a pair of 111w155s.

you have to keep us update with this. I know people did this but afaik no one showed his end result. ;)

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5 hours ago, DonInReno said:

I’ve ordered a few things from them without any issue.   I’m currently waiting for hooks, take up levers and case openers for big bobbin conversions on a pair of 111w155s.

Do you have any information on this upgrade to big bobbin, As a hobby guy its just of interest to me, not something i would take forward

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15 hours ago, Constabulary said:

you have to keep us update with this. I know people did this but afaik no one showed his end result. ;)

Years ago when I first heard of this conversion it sounded complicated, especially the alterations to the hook saddle that most people seem to do with a milling machine.  

It wasn’t until a few weeks ago that it dawned on me that the saddle alteration is just clearance for the hook and not a precision surface.  Someone with a Dremel tool and a lot of patience could easily do a profession-looking job in an hour or two.

Shortening the hook shaft bushing has to result in a precision flat surface, but even that could be done with careful filing followed by bluing the surface with a sharpie, rotating it against the hook to show high spots and carefully scraping until there is full contact.

I have a lathe and can alter both parts, but I’m super slow so it won’t really save any time.  :-)

13 hours ago, chrisash said:

Do you have any information on this upgrade to big bobbin, As a hobby guy its just of interest to me, not something i would take forward

This information more or less applies to juki lu-562, the Consew like in this video, singer 111w155 and others that share nearly identical parts.  
 

Edited by DonInReno

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I just noticed a hook I purchased on eBay is $29 shipped, while same Kunpeng hook on Amazon is $44.   That’s quite a difference!

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In many cases Ebay has the better prices compared with Amazon. I bought a larger hook + 10 spools for approx the same price back then but haven´t yet started that project :whistle: What no one (seemingly) has answered yet is how much material do I have to grind / mill down (in millimeters)?

 

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I just dug out an old Singer hook saddle... when taking a closer look and putting in the large hook I´d say It cannot be just the hook bushing part you have to mill down. The rest of the inner hook saddle  (lets say "the well") needs to be milled don too. Otherwise the opener lever link (the 8-shaped part) would stay at the same height cause it sits in a fix position on the bobbin case opener lever

Maybe you can shed some light.... ;)

EDIT:

some ppictures

IMG_2659.thumb.JPG.1f1b0168ad9371f383e16389c0285f09.JPGIMG_2661.thumb.JPG.0260f75f4ee16e1c23449cc1d3a30afa.JPG

Edited by Constabulary

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some rough measurement:

When the OEM hook is insert the distance from hook saddle top side to the hook tip is ~16mm.

When the new large hook is insert the distance from hook saddle top side to the hook tip is ~19mm.

So I have to mill down ~3mm (roughly - don´t have a caliper on hand atm) inside the entire hook saddle well to keep the needle hook timing right. Am I right with this?

If I' m wrong maybe some one can help me.

 

IMG_2663.JPG

IMG_2664.JPG

Edited by Constabulary

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Still wrapping my mind around this... :wacko:

Hook tip position is not too critical I guess. The fixed point you (we) have to deal with is the gap in the needle plate where the small bobbin case tab goes in, right? I mean thread has to pass that gap w/o hanging so the gap is a "fixed point" whereas the needle bar can be adjusted...

So back to the drawing board :rolleyes:

 

EDIT:

still looks like 3mm difference between OEM small hook and new large hook.

Old hook 19mm - new hook 22m

Still thinking the whole "hook saddle well" has to be milled down by 3mm.

I´m not a machinist so if someone has other ideas please share your thoughts...

 

IMG_2666.JPG

IMG_2667.JPG

Edited by Constabulary

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Yes I think you’ve got it - about 3mm is removed from the well.   Cowboy Bob had mentioned in the past they take .100” off that area (2.54mm). 
 

I may be wrong, but it was my understanding the case opener lever stays at the original level and gets slightly clearances to avoid rubbing on the hook.   The figure-8 thingy is then given a step, or the entire height is reduced enough that it sits under the hook, but that is the part I’m not sure of.

My large hooks won’t be here for another two weeks.

Edited by DonInReno

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I now have a third machine for the conversion....for that one a factory lu-563 saddle has been ordered so that should at least give us a better idea of what the dimensions are. 

On 2/5/2021 at 1:37 AM, Constabulary said:

IMG_2661.thumb.JPG.0260f75f4ee16e1c23449cc1d3a30afa.JPG

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