Hand Sewing

[tsunkasapa]

The purpose of the unwaxed thread was to work the TAPER into the end of the thread, he said to wax it after that. It isn't impossible to taper the end of waxed thread, but it is difficult and can be frustrating. As for synthetic threads, I do not put plastic into my leather projects, only linen or hemp. YMMV

[45rjb222]

As with anything times change. Now it depends on the look you desire for your project or the use of the project being made. Properly used un waxed linen will last a life time.  After getting the taper you desire wax the thread just plain old bees wax works well, if your project is going to be submitted to moisture then use a cobblers wax this will darken the thread a bit but it will absolutely lock your stitch and almost totally water proof your thread. I personally prefer in natural threads Linen over hemp I find hemp brittle and stiff. All the polestar threads sew ok if you desire a round thread look them Vimeo or Twist will suit but the true classic look is a 3/18 linen. Ritza is a flat braid makes a nice stitch not too expensive and will last your lifetime for sure.

[chuck123wapati]

Threads may have changed but Stohlmans techniques are still spot on, everyday almost questions are asked here that are covered many times in his writings.

You can get more of his stuff free on the tandy site. https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/category/79/ebooks?pagenum=1

[fredk]

On 2/18/2021 at 3:35 PM, tsunkasapa said:

The purpose of the unwaxed thread was to work the TAPER into the end of the thread, he said to wax it after that. It isn't impossible to taper the end of waxed thread, but it is difficult and can be frustrating. . . .

I have a very large spool of thread which is not waxed. After I cut off a length I wax about 3 inches of the ends, taper, thread on needle, then pull the rest of that thread through a block of beeswax. Waxing the ends helps to keep the individual threads together and make a good taper

[Danne]

12 hours ago, 45rjb222 said:

As with anything times change. Now it depends on the look you desire for your project or the use of the project being made. Properly used un waxed linen will last a life time.  After getting the taper you desire wax the thread just plain old bees wax works well, if your project is going to be submitted to moisture then use a cobblers wax this will darken the thread a bit but it will absolutely lock your stitch and almost totally water proof your thread. I personally prefer in natural threads Linen over hemp I find hemp brittle and stiff. All the polestar threads sew ok if you desire a round thread look them Vimeo or Twist will suit but the true classic look is a 3/18 linen. Ritza is a flat braid makes a nice stitch not too expensive and will last your lifetime for sure.

This is no critique. I'm just curious. What type of linen thread is this? Because my experience from linen thread (thinner thread around 0.5mm) is that for example a wallet that have been used 1-2 years in a jeans pocket needs to be restitched if I used linen thread. 

The thread is this case have been Fil Au Chinois 632. And this is the reason I now prefer to use synthetic thread instead.

[Hardrada]

7 hours ago, Danne said:

The thread is this case have been Fil Au Chinois 632. And this is the reason I now prefer to use synthetic thread instead.

Hmm, I just got a spool of that, thinking of using it for a wallet, because the 0.6 mm Tiger thread looked kinda thick for this application. One thing I didn't like about the Lin Cable is that it's not as waxed as Tiger: I couldn't melt the Lin's ends—they smouldered but didn't melt. How do you handle this last part of the stitching?

[45rjb222]

9 hours ago, Danne said:

This is no critique. I'm just curious. What type of linen thread is this? Because my experience from linen thread (thinner thread around 0.5mm) is that for example a wallet that have been used 1-2 years in a jeans pocket needs to be restitched if I used linen thread. 

The thread is this case have been Fil Au Chinois 632. And this is the reason I now prefer to use synthetic thread instead.

I have never used Fil Au Chinois So I cant form a real opinion on this thread. I still have some 3/18 that is tough thread. Its a larger diameter than 0.06 Ritza which i use a lot of now. When stating longevity I used to do Harness and Saddle work and burried my thread in a groove where it did not wear as far as wax I used it was a cobblers wax I learned to make from my grand father. basic recipe was bees wax pine tar and rosin. That wax locked the stitch and it wouldn't rot Unless you berried it for a couple years. Anything will wear when its rubbed. I have changed how I stitch and what I use due to Nigel Armitage.  I appreciate Nigel's knowledge and processes.

[mike02130]

2 hours ago, Hardrada said:

I couldn't melt the Lin's ends—they smouldered but didn't melt. How do you handle this last part of the stitching?

Linen doesn't melt.  I back stitch then cut my thread short and tuck it in the hole with a small dab of glue.

[YinTx]

9 hours ago, Danne said:

What type of linen thread is this? Because my experience from linen thread (thinner thread around 0.5mm) is that for example a wallet that have been used 1-2 years in a jeans pocket needs to be restitched if I used linen thread. 

 

Wow, I haven't had this issue.  Been using Fil Au Chinois on many a wallet, never had one come back.  Have used them myself for years on end, never had one even fray.  I have been using 432 and 532, perhaps that makes a difference.

I have had some 532 fail on a dog collar where the dog was scratching the collar with a hind leg, bit extreme use though.  Not sure how much grooving would have helped that.  Also had a 532 fail on the fold of a phone case/wallet after about four years of constant daily use.  It did not come unstitched at all, just had two of the threads break.

Obviously, YMMV!

YinTx

[Danne]

12 hours ago, Hardrada said:

Hmm, I just got a spool of that, thinking of using it for a wallet, because the 0.6 mm Tiger thread looked kinda thick for this application. One thing I didn't like about the Lin Cable is that it's not as waxed as Tiger: I couldn't melt the Lin's ends—they smouldered but didn't melt. How do you handle this last part of the stitching?

Ps also order the sample pack from Meisi (You get a couple of full spools and also sample packs) and you pay shipping. I think you Will like Xiange Twist, it's a synthetic thread that have a linen look. (I have some photos of products I've used it on, if you wanna see)

It depends, if I bartack a watch strap (like loop around the edges) I either tie it inside, och use some super glue before I pull the thread tight, and also some on the back side in the hole.

On a wallet I back stitch and some white glue on the thread before I pull tight and also som white glue in the hole.