Members sbrownn Posted May 6, 2021 Members Report Posted May 6, 2021 Are you open to suggestions? Quote
Members sbrownn Posted May 7, 2021 Members Report Posted May 7, 2021 7 minutes ago, Bert03241 said: always I think lighter weight leather would be just as durable, would mold better for the pocket and look more proportional on something this small. I think your edges would look "more finished" if they were beveled before you polished them. I'm not sure it makes any difference, but I think the snaps are usually mounted with the female piece on the flap. I think it would look better if the stitching were just a little bit further from the edge. Perhaps the flap would "look better" if it were rounded to match the outline of the sheath pocket instead of being squared off. Thanks for being open to suggestions. Quote
Members Bert03241 Posted May 7, 2021 Author Members Report Posted May 7, 2021 Yes I for got to bevel the edges my bad there. I didn't mold the pockets on these, wanted the knife to slip in and out with ease, molding puts retention on the knife also I wanted a pocket that would fit other knives of that style . But yes maybe 5oz leather would be ok for the trapper size knives. When I first started making the sheaths for the Buck 110 and lockbacks of that size, I made them from 5 oz and many thought they were flimsy so I jumped to 7-8 oz I didn't realize the snap made a difference. My stitching I like to keep 1/8" from the edge , even tho the edge is glued I think it helps hold it better if its close. Thanks for the suggestions Quote
Members blue duck Posted May 7, 2021 Members Report Posted May 7, 2021 Quote sending a dm Quote May God Smile on you today.
Members sbrownn Posted May 7, 2021 Members Report Posted May 7, 2021 1 hour ago, Bert03241 said: Yes I for got to bevel the edges my bad there. I didn't mold the pockets on these, wanted the knife to slip in and out with ease, molding puts retention on the knife also I wanted a pocket that would fit other knives of that style . But yes maybe 5oz leather would be ok for the trapper size knives. When I first started making the sheaths for the Buck 110 and lockbacks of that size, I made them from 5 oz and many thought they were flimsy so I jumped to 7-8 oz I didn't realize the snap made a difference. My stitching I like to keep 1/8" from the edge , even tho the edge is glued I think it helps hold it better if its close. Thanks for the suggestions I understand and you are welcome. Quote
Members Wykoni Posted September 14, 2023 Members Report Posted September 14, 2023 One other thing you may want to consider when hand stitching. The punch size should be no more than the size of two widths of thread. The logic behind this is the holes look tighter and more like machine sewed. This thing we do is all about aesthetically pleasing, the better it looks the better it sells. Just fyi….the buff looks good so that you got nailed and the fit looks good. Quote
Members GrampaJoel Posted September 14, 2023 Members Report Posted September 14, 2023 Bert03241, I like your laser engraved item. Which is what you posted about originally. I have occasionally thought about buying a laser to enhance my projects. But not being real tech savvy I have been holding off. So, which laser do you have? Is it hard to use? Would you recommend the model you have to a novice? thanks Joel Quote
Members Hags Posted September 15, 2023 Members Report Posted September 15, 2023 Nice work, agree with hole size, but are they cut with the laser? Quote Not so retired RN. Living on the Washington Peninsula.
Members JWheeler331 Posted September 18, 2023 Members Report Posted September 18, 2023 Hey.......that's not a trapper in that sheath. Nice job on the sheath. Quote
Members Dwight Posted September 18, 2023 Members Report Posted September 18, 2023 (edited) On 9/14/2023 at 5:55 PM, GrampaJoel said: Bert03241, I like your laser engraved item. Which is what you posted about originally. I have occasionally thought about buying a laser to enhance my projects. But not being real tech savvy I have been holding off. So, which laser do you have? Is it hard to use? Would you recommend the model you have to a novice? thanks Joel Grampa Joel . . . you figured out how to turn on your computer . . . get to a search engine . . . call up Leatherworker.net . . . Believe me . . . you are well on your way to being tech savvy enough to run a laser thingy. I got one for 50 bucks . . . long story . . . it is basically only for decorating wood and leather . . . will not cut out patterns . . . make wood projects . . . etc. All you have to do download LaserGRBL . . . free software . . . and basically anything you can turn into a *.jpg . . . you can put on the leather. I use Adobe Photoshop Elements 2.0 . . . another free program . . . make it all there . . . copy / paste to another "Laser" file . . . and I've got it. The two things you have to understand is the power you are telling the laser to use . . . and the speed you want it to go. When I have something I think "might" be what I want . . . I toss a piece of flat cardboard (the kind they make bigger boxes out of) . . . and engrave it first. It'll show me if I'm too powerful . . . too slow . . . whatever. There is a bit of a learning curve there . . . but after a couple days (laser burning takes forever) . . . you'll get a feel for it . . . and it's fun. Amazon and Ebay have em out there starting at 150 bucks or so . . . which is what mine was originally I think. You have to watch one thing for sure when purchasing one . . . sellers lie to you . . . tell you the machine is 40 watt or 50 watt or something like that . . . when they are in effect telling you that it consumes that power. What you need to see is the OUTPUT power . . . and while mine is small . . . my next one will be in the 5 to 7.5 watt output. That will be a bunch faster I'm told. Anyway . . . think about it . . . but don't ponder forever. While you were pondering . . . you coulda been playing. May God bless, Dwight Edited September 18, 2023 by Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members 1961Mike Posted October 2, 2023 Members Report Posted October 2, 2023 On 5/7/2021 at 10:00 AM, sbrownn said: Perhaps the flap would "look better" if it were rounded to match the outline of the sheath pocket instead of being squared off. Thanks for being open to suggestions. Hi Personally I'd have squared them both off. Easier to do and then it would match. Matching the rounded ends in size is a bit harder to measure, but matching the way you did the top part is just measuring. Of course, I'm an engineer, so I measure things... Later Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.