Members chrisash Posted July 4, 2021 Members Report Posted July 4, 2021 Have brought a binder for my 111G155 but having problems going around corners with the bias tape, it looks so simple on yt but not for me. I think its the position of the binder as i cannot get it very close to the machine so about 5mm away from the end of the straight guide after the 90% bend. have placed magnetic guide alongside zip feet and needle to fill in the gap but still having problems, I have been trying to swivel the material at the needle position but tape is coming away from material, any clues to my stupidity Limited holes n machine to place the binder and cannot move it closer to needle as would require a hole drilled through the thin part of the right plate so would not take a thread Quote Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me
Members Constabulary Posted July 4, 2021 Members Report Posted July 4, 2021 (edited) Binder is too far away from the needle, bring it closer to the needle and if necessary cut down the inner foot. Edited July 4, 2021 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members jimi Posted July 4, 2021 Members Report Posted July 4, 2021 This topic might help you Chris... Quote
kgg Posted July 4, 2021 Report Posted July 4, 2021 1 hour ago, chrisash said: Limited holes n machine to place the binder and cannot move it closer to needle as would require a hole drilled through the thin part of the right plate so would not take a thread This is the problem with the style of binder you are using on the flatbed. The 90 degree binder is more suited to the cylinder arm machines. I find using the cheap inline binders much better as you can get the exit part of the binder to just about touching the pressor foot to stop binder tape run away. I even built an adapter for my cylinder bed to accept the inline binders. I'm cheap and why have to styles of binders. An option if you really want to use an 90 degree binder is to find one that has a 1/2" long exit fold that is at 90 degrees to the binder tip. That will allow you to get it closer to the pressor foot. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
kgg Posted July 4, 2021 Report Posted July 4, 2021 To you visualize the 1/2" long exit fold that is at 90 degrees to the binder tip and another alternative using a 90 binder mounted to a feed dog cover-plate. The one mounted to the plate hasn't got a 90 exit piece as it can be set really close to the needle. This may give you some idea's. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members SARK9 Posted July 4, 2021 Members Report Posted July 4, 2021 2 hours ago, kgg said: The one mounted to the plate hasn't got a 90 exit piece as it can be set really close to the needle. I use the generic double-fold 90-deg. binders (which are SOLD for use on flatbeds) mounted to the bobbin cover plate. This combination WAS mounted on my 111w152 but is now on a rebadged LU-562. As you can see, the needle just can't be much closer to the finished work exiting from the back of the folder. I have the synchronous binder stuff available on my CU-865 Mitsubishi cylinder arm, and it works pretty well, but I really can't see much advantage to it unless the work has a 3-D curved shape and won't lay properly if sewn flattened out. -DC Quote Machines: Juki LU-563, Consew 206-RB5, Singer 20U33, Pfaff 481, Mitsubishi CU-865-22, Consew 29B, Rebadged Juki LU-562, Mitsubishi LS2-180, Seiko SK-6, Juki LG-158-1
kgg Posted July 4, 2021 Report Posted July 4, 2021 9 minutes ago, SARK9 said: I use the generic double-fold 90-deg. binders (which are SOLD for use on flatbeds) mounted to the bobbin cover plate. The most important thing I find is how close you can get to the needle without having the pressor foot touch and the proper back tension being applied to the binding tape. Personally, I prefer the inline binders over the 90 degree binders which I think has more to do with personal preference rather then performance and of course cost is always a factor. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members chrisash Posted July 4, 2021 Author Members Report Posted July 4, 2021 Many thanks folks for the suggestions, It looks like i need to by a swing adapter from College tomorrow as unable to get this binder any closer. and apart from the rather expensive binders available, cannot see and that offer 45% which would possible give more fixing flexibility Quote Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me
Members SARK9 Posted July 4, 2021 Members Report Posted July 4, 2021 4 hours ago, kgg said: Personally, I prefer the inline binders over the 90 degree binders which I think has more to do with personal preference rather then performance Binding tighter *inside curves* easily with an inline binder requires some arcane incantations I never was taught, I suppose. The 90 degree makes it way easier. I suppose doing enough faceplants attempting it with an inline binder makes my 90 degree cure a sort of personal preference. LOL. -DC Quote Machines: Juki LU-563, Consew 206-RB5, Singer 20U33, Pfaff 481, Mitsubishi CU-865-22, Consew 29B, Rebadged Juki LU-562, Mitsubishi LS2-180, Seiko SK-6, Juki LG-158-1
Members nylonRigging Posted July 5, 2021 Members Report Posted July 5, 2021 (edited) On 7/4/2021 at 4:01 AM, chrisash said: - modification of threads title .. Having problems binding around corners 'Radius Curve' . If you having difficulty binding around Radius curves ? Then you will find little Joy with 'Turning Corners' . .. LOL . Edited July 5, 2021 by nylonRigging Quote
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