Consew 206RB-5: Not picking up bobbin thread

[Wizcrafts]

3 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

Online I see them for $35-50.  My Consew dealer just quoted me $374 plus taxes!  Is that even possible?  Could there be some misunderstanding of "rotary hook part #18033"?  Could the dealer be quoting me for some kind of complete assembly?  Geez, that makes the hook about 30% of the price I paid for the machine!

OEM parts are always more expensive than aftermarket parts from Wuhan. They are warranted against defects and more likely to be a perfect fit for your machine. Sometimes they are not stocked by your dealer and have to be special ordered.

Since you are not using the machine now, why not remove the hook and examine the tip and ramp for burrs from needle strikes. The point should be well defined and sharp. The ramp portion that carries the thread around the bobbin basket should be smooth. If these things are true there is no need to replace the hook.

When you reinstall the hook (current or replacement), set the opener arm so it stops before pulling the tab all the way back. It needs a bit of clearance. And, make sure that when the hook picks off the thread loop, it carries it smoothly around the bobbin basket. There shouldn't be any hangs in this motion. If the thread makes a snapping sound, move the check spring disk to the right in its slot to give more slack thread. Do this until the snapping stops. You may also need to reduce the thread tensions to accomplish this. The machine will be happier, like the Canadiens fans were last night.

[MtlBiker]

17 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

OEM parts are always more expensive than aftermarket parts from Wuhan. They are warranted against defects and more likely to be a perfect fit for your machine. Sometimes they are not stocked by your dealer and have to be special ordered.

Since you are not using the machine now, why not remove the hook and examine the tip and ramp for burrs from needle strikes. The point should be well defined and sharp. The ramp portion that carries the thread around the bobbin basket should be smooth. If these things are true there is no need to replace the hook.

When you reinstall the hook (current or replacement), set the opener arm so it stops before pulling the tab all the way back. It needs a bit of clearance. And, make sure that when the hook picks off the thread loop, it carries it smoothly around the bobbin basket. There shouldn't be any hangs in this motion. If the thread makes a snapping sound, move the check spring disk to the right in its slot to give more slack thread. Do this until the snapping stops. You may also need to reduce the thread tensions to accomplish this. The machine will be happier, like the Canadiens fans were last night.

Thanks for your help, Wiz!

But my inexperience makes it difficult to understand what you are suggesting.  Opener arm?  Tab?

In any case, tonight when I get home I'll remove the hook and examine it.  But again without experience or something to compare to, how pointy should it be?  How sharp?  You'd probably know instantly.  If I don't see anything obvious, I'll try to take a close up photo.

I sure don't want to spend $400 for a new hook if it's not needed.

 

[chrisash]

Half a dozen photo's of the needle v hook may well help others decide whats wrong, the old saying a image is better than a thousand words (or something like that)

 

[Wizcrafts]

55 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

But my inexperience makes it difficult to understand what you are suggesting.  Opener arm?  Tab?

In any case, tonight when I get home I'll remove the hook and examine it.  But again without experience or something to compare to, how pointy should it be?  How sharp?

Oi Vey!

Leave it alone and have a professional come over, or bring the head to a sewing machine mechanic.

[TurnerSew]

Here's a couple of pictures you might find helpful. Just note, that if you get this too close, you run a risk of breaking something and needing new parts. At that point, it'd likely be more expensive than paying someone else to do it. 

First is a picture of hook point clearance. Needs to be close. The manual excerpt above is spot on. As is the YouTube video. Set the hook point to be within the scarf, not on the eye of the needle. As far as sharpness on the hook, think of the tip of a good pair of pointed shears. The point should be like a triangle point, not beveled or blunt.

Second is the physical location of the thread release finger / bobbin case opener. The YouTube video is as well.

 

If you are confident with both of these being correct, start with tension next, as described by Wiz.

IMG_4861.HEIC IMG_4857.HEIC

[TurnerSew]

New point for reference.

IMG_4864.heic IMG_4865.heic

[Wizcrafts]

43 minutes ago, TurnerSew said:

Here's a couple of pictures you might find helpful.

You might want to convert those photos into something that can be opened on a Windows computer. JPG is a more common file type. I can't open your photos on Windows 10.

43 minutes ago, TurnerSew said:

New point for reference.

IMG_4864.heic 574.1 kB · 1 download IMG_4865.heic 635.25 kB · 0 downloads

Can't open these in Windows 10

[TurnerSew]

2 hours ago, TurnerSew said:

Here's a couple of pictures you might find helpful. Just note, that if you get this too close, you run a risk of breaking something and needing new parts. At that point, it'd likely be more expensive than paying someone else to do it. 

First is a picture of hook point clearance. Needs to be close. The manual excerpt above is spot on. As is the YouTube video. Set the hook point to be within the scarf, not on the eye of the needle. As far as sharpness on the hook, think of the tip of a good pair of pointed shears. The point should be like a triangle point, not beveled or blunt.

Second is the physical location of the thread release finger / bobbin case opener. The YouTube video is as well.

 

If you are confident with both of these being correct, start with tension next, as described by Wiz.

 

 

2 hours ago, TurnerSew said:

New point for reference.

 

[Constabulary]

to me the tip on the installed hook (shown in video) does not look bad at all. I doubt you have to replace it. It´s juts not correctly timed.

  

On 7/5/2021 at 3:24 PM, MtlBiker said:

 

Edited July 7, 2021 by Constabulary

[MtlBiker]

On 7/6/2021 at 6:38 PM, TurnerSew said:

Here's a couple of pictures you might find helpful. Just note, that if you get this too close, you run a risk of breaking something and needing new parts. At that point, it'd likely be more expensive than paying someone else to do it. 

First is a picture of hook point clearance. Needs to be close. The manual excerpt above is spot on. As is the YouTube video. Set the hook point to be within the scarf, not on the eye of the needle. As far as sharpness on the hook, think of the tip of a good pair of pointed shears. The point should be like a triangle point, not beveled or blunt.

Second is the physical location of the thread release finger / bobbin case opener. The YouTube video is as well.

 

If you are confident with both of these being correct, start with tension next, as described by Wiz.

IMG_4861.HEIC 861.94 kB · 6 downloads IMG_4857.HEIC 458.12 kB · 4 downloads

Very helpful suggestions, thanks!  And your later repost of the photos likewise was very helpful.  I do have the machine working fine again, and the hook did not need replacement.  I had to work carefully through the maintenance video step by step to get everything correct.  And your photo of the hook against the scarf of the needle was clearer than anything else I'd seen.  Thanks!