cynthiab Report post Posted December 20, 2021 Hi Guys, I'm a newbie here and have just bought a very old Singer 111w155 machine which I have a few questions about. Im hoping that some of you have this machine or one like it and can give me some advice. This machine does a nice stitch so far (Ive had it for 2 days) but I noticed that the the belt on the lower safety clutch pulley walks off the pulley about 1/4 of an inch. How can I get this back on center and keep it there? Upon looking over the machine and watching videos on line I noticed that I'm missing a cog next to the lower safety clutch pulley... OR maybe it is an older model? Well anyway, I tried to just move the lower safety clutch pulley over a bit, but when I did - I got a lot of slop (back and forth on the shaft). Also I need some advice on if I should move my bobbin case up a bit. It looks like it might be a bit low. The little tab the goes under the feed dog just catches. Should it be more firmly up in that slot? AND - If I do move it; will I have to re-time the bobbin and needle? Also, about that bobbin area... Is the little finger that comes out and points at the bobbin case supposed to be closer to the case? I seem to have a good size gap. Lastly, having to lift out the bobbin with a needle or screw driver seems wrong, is there a right way or at least a better way? I cant wait to get to work and use this machine! I hope to hear from you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted December 21, 2021 @cynthiab moved your post to leather sewing machines. You'll get more help here than the other forums. Have you had a good look through this forum? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted December 21, 2021 Don't worry about the vertical gap at the tab in the cutout in the throat plate. Do adjust the finger backwards so it pulls the bobbin case backwards, to almost as far as it can pull, but leave a little clearance. Its job is to pull the tag on the bobbin case to one side so the top thread doesn't get hung up on the tab. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cynthiab Report post Posted December 21, 2021 Thank you Northmount. I looked all over for the machine section to post in and couldn't find it. I'll keep looking. Also thank you Wiz for your advice I will get right to that. So far so good, I love this machine. I bought it on Facebook for 450. and it was a filthy mess. Took 3 days to get it cleaned up and oiled. Still need to switch out the felts and wicks. Anyone have a resource for felts and wicks before I start monkeying with it? Im hoping that this sweet little thing will be my answer for sewing leather tug toys for working dogs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wyowally Report post Posted December 22, 2021 (edited) Cynthia, I acquired my 111W155 last spring, and posted a number of questions on here. Sometimes the answers take a day or two to show up, but I've gotten great advice. Some of the manuals from our armed services are pretty good. I have been part of a FB group "Vintage Industrial Sewing Machines". Several of those manuals are in their 'Files' section. Some of the best videos are on YT done by Uwe Grosse. He is also on this website. The Consew 225 is almost a direct clone and most of parts and adjustments are the same.The finger distance you asked about changes with rotation of the system, so needs to be adjusted accordingly. It is called the bobbin case opener lever. If you turn the handwheel towards you so that the square block the opener is screwed to has moved as far right as possible, with the screw loosened slightly you should be able to fit a couple thicknesses of paper right there where your arrow is pointing. Always turn it over by hand when adjusting this, you don't want it to bind up under power ever. Might need a little more or less adjustment after that. Hope that helps. The cog you asked about is confusing. It would help if you had a picture from a little farther out, but also the end view. The safety clutch is normally held tight to the shaft by one or two set screws, so it can't move to the side. The manuals and videos show that pretty well. Edited December 22, 2021 by Wyowally safety clutch info Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
327fed Report post Posted December 22, 2021 (edited) Service manual for 111 http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/USNavySinger111WConsew225REPAIR.pdf Consew 225 manual (111 copy) https://s3.amazonaws.com/a.teamworksales.com/CONSEW+PDF/CONSEW+NEW/CONSEW+225+INSTRUCTION+MANUAL.pdf Edited December 22, 2021 by 327fed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cynthiab Report post Posted December 26, 2021 Wyowally and 327fed thank you for your replys I will look into the manuals you mentioned. And yes, last week I joined the group "Vintage Industrial Sewing Machines" that you mentioned. I will take a look at those files, thank you for reminding me. Also I'm relived to know that there are machines that are very similar. That will make research on repairs much easier. But now I have to say, after fiddling around with the machine a bit more I'm convinced that it is NOT a 155 but maybe a 152 or 153. The reason is the the presser foot when lifted is only 5/16th high....Of course it was sold to me as a 155 :>( .... and the badge is missing of course...and the serial number has been removed. (There is a handwritten number on the top that says “111w155”, which I'm sure is totally meaningless, lol) So obviously when it was sold to me and the guy before me as a 155 it was a ruse. Bummer, BUT if it is a 153 I will not be TOO bummed, but if it is a 152; I will not be happy at all; since I hope to be sewing 10 to 12oz (or thicker if possible) vegetable tanned leather. Hmmm, So that brings me to how to tell the difference. The 152 and the 153 both have a maximum stitch length of 5 and a foot height of 5/16ths and as far as I can tell they both look alike. SO, how do I tell the difference between a 152 and a 153? Is there any other defining attribute between the two machines? Anybody out there have any insight about this dilemma? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted December 26, 2021 This may help https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-100-199.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cynthiab Report post Posted December 26, 2021 Thank you Chrisah, Ive seen this before but it's good, but still doesn't answer the question of how to tell them apart. Visually on the outside I THINK they are exactly the same. But is there something under or inside that will tell me is it is a 152 or 153? How does one tell if it is heavy duty or for lighter work. Is the main shaft thicker? Are the cogs/gears bigger? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted December 26, 2021 2 minutes ago, cynthiab said: Thank you Chrisah, Ive seen this before but it's good, but still doesn't answer the question of how to tell them apart. Visually on the outside I THINK they are exactly the same. But is there something under or inside that will tell me is it is a 152 or 153? How does one tell if it is heavy duty or for lighter work. Is the main shaft thicker? Are the cogs/gears bigger? I've worked on a few old 111 machines and sometimes it is very hard to tell the differences, even if the model tags are in place. I do know that the w101, 151 and 153 have lower lift than the 155. We had a 153 in our shop but I let my partner take it home to make room for a zig zag machine. The 153 only lifted 3/8 inch and sewed 5/16 inch, and then only if all the lift parts were adjusted correctly. The 3/8 inch lift is with the right foot pedal or knee lever. They all use the same G style bobbin which is often referred to as a standard 1x walking foot machine bobbin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cynthiab Report post Posted December 28, 2021 (edited) Wizcraft, Ahhh , maybe I'm not getting it right. I figured that when I raise the foot by using the lever on the back and measured the distance between the feeddog plate and the bottom of the foot, that was it..... That 5/16ths measurement was the thing that informed me that my machine was not a 111w155, or so I think. Is the lift supposed to be measured another way? LOL I'm being hopeful here. Id love or this thing to be a 155. Well another glitch has hit me along the way. This is a bummer. While cleaning the nose I noticed that I'm missing the bar and spring that goes under the thumb screw to raise or lower the pressure on the middle walking foot. How critical is this, and how hard is it to replace? Or even, is it possible to find one? Anyone parting out a machine have one of these? The part numbers for the missing piece are.... 240185 Extension with 240264 Set Screw and 240186 Collar, and lastly the spring that goes over it # 240188 I have posted a photo of the nose of my machine with the missing part area highlighted and a page from the 155 schematic (page 17) Is it possible to make one? If so could someone send me the specs on the bar and spring? (I'd be way happier to buy on from a part-out machine :>) I also noticed the there are 2 missing set screws under the machine, and have posted a photo of where they are located. Anyone have any of these laying around ? Or does anyone have specks on the size, thread count and pitch of the thread. ? Edited December 28, 2021 by cynthiab Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cynthiab Report post Posted December 28, 2021 Well I just perused the files and found the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Parts link and it is fantastic. Ive ordered the Vibrating Presser Bar Extender and Spring for only $8 each. Nice score! The only things I cant seem to find are the two missing screws. Any thoughts? Anyone have measurements available? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites