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  • Contributing Member
Posted

I still think your best option is just to buy another piece. And mention to the seller especially what you want it for and what temper you want. When you work up a good working relationship with a leather supplier they'll get to know just what you want and like

I also think you should use veg tan leather. You can change the temper  of veg tan by adding or removing its natural oils

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

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  • CFM
Posted
2 minutes ago, fredk said:

I still think your best option is just to buy another piece. And mention to the seller especially what you want it for and what temper you want. When you work up a good working relationship with a leather supplier they'll get to know just what you want and like

I also think you should use veg tan leather. You can change the temper  of veg tan by adding or removing its natural oils

:16: sell it to someone on the forum or use it for something else. 

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

  • Members
Posted (edited)

fredk: Thick vegetable-tanned leather for unlined boots? I know a few people on these forums tried to dissuade me from using vegetable-tanned leather for footwear over a year ago. I still went ahead anyhow and made some shoes using vegetable-tanned leather. I don't intend doing so again unless you know something I don't. Which is probable.

Scott

Edited by ScottEnglish
  • Contributing Member
Posted

I used to make shoes and ankle-length boots* of medieval style for myself & family and some of the members of my medieval presentation group. I only ever used veg tan except for some 'slipper' type shoes for my dottir when she was a toddler. Those were made from upholstery grade chrome tan and made in the 'turn shoe' style and method.

Veg tan leather has been used for eons for boots and shoes. If it was good enuf and suitable for the cordwainers of old who am I to argue with centuries of experience?

* just once I made thigh-length boots in 17th century style for a chap, never again !  :nono:

Thickness of leathers used? afair, vamp & heel 2 mm, sole, inner, 1.5mm, outer sole, 2.5 mm, outer heel, stack of 2.5mm depending on 'client'. Worked and sewn dry but wet formed over a wood last. Sometimes wet formed over a 'client's' foot (one chap had a misshapen foot) Then the leather was sealed with beeswax mixture

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

  • Members
Posted

fredk: Thanks for your detailed reply and mention of shoe leather prior to the birth of chrome tanning. Your medieval shoes, am I correct in understanding that they were unlined?

Hardrada: Thanks for the links.

Scott

  • Contributing Member
Posted
36 minutes ago, ScottEnglish said:

fredk: Thanks for your detailed reply and mention of shoe leather prior to the birth of chrome tanning. Your medieval shoes, am I correct in understanding that they were unlined?

yes, unlined. There were three soles; the outer walking surface one, an inner sole that the outer was sewn to and then a third inner-sole for foot comfort. That one was usually glued in. Gluing leather together goes right back to at least the Roman Bronze age 

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

  • Members
Posted (edited)

Don't want to sound negative but the equipment required for thinning large pieces in any sort of even way is neither small nor cheap.

Keep this hide for something else and order another one in the thickness that you need.  Thick chrome tan makes very nice valet trays, which are easy Xmas gifts and everybody wants one.

 

Edited by Spyros
  • Members
Posted

You should sell the remainder of your hide.  I'm sure if you posted pictures of it someone would show interest.  

Plaining it is going to be a bear.  I recently bought some Buffaloe hide to make a shooting bag.  Turned out to be 10 ounce which is o.k. but I cannot gouge the edges because the inside is so soft. I won't be able to do a mitered fit like the instructions call for.

The good thing is that the bag is for me so I can live with it.  It will become a display model and I'll see if anyone wants me to build them one.  I normally make holsters.  This hide is too soft for that.

 

  • Members
Posted

fredk: Thanks for answering my question about your medieval shoes.

Spyros: Thanks. I've now decided not to attempt to reduce the thickness of it.

AzShooter: I'm going to try and sell it. I'm only interested in making footwear, nothing else.

 

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