Screwed up... Can I fix it?

[MtlBiker]

I screwed up on a piece I was working on... It's the outer part of a wallet, with leather on the outside and interfaced cotton on the inside.  I'd stitched it together right sides together and turned it right side out through an opening I'd left in the middle of the lining (which will be hidden when I add the interior card slots and zippered pocket.  I then top-stitched it and when I was done I saw that the stitches in one part were loose (don't know how else to describe it) and the upper thread was still working but was frayed above the needle.  It was a brand new leather needle #20 (135x16) with v92 thread.  The needle was correctly installed.  I don't know what caused this problem but I'm going to install another new needle before trying again.

Anyway, I'm wondering what you think about the possibility of fixing this.  Or do I have to trash it and start over?  I think it's next to impossible that I could match the same needle holes if I restitch.  If I do try to restitch that top stitch, should I remove the first stitching first or leave it in place, stitching on top of it?

[PastorBob]

I would definitely pull the old thread and try lining up the stitches in the prepunched holes.  Worst case, start over (maybe cut off the sewn portions and make it a tad bit smaller). Best case, it all lines up in the existing holes.

[fredk]

I say, cut the thread back by about 2 inches each side of the bad part and sew again. Only this time go manual. Watch carefully and try to get the needle into the same holes. Over lap the new onto the old by about 1 inch

[kgg]

1 hour ago, MtlBiker said:

It was a brand new leather needle #20 (135x16) with v92 thread. 

I would change the needle to a #22 as having a to small a needle will cause thread shreds, frays, or breaks at the needle.

With what appears to be skipped stitches I would check for burrs along the top thread path (thread guides, tension discs, etc).

I would re cut the piece as the resewing or trying to correct the problems areas will I think be noticeable.

kgg

[HaloJones]

If it’s only a small area can you hand stitch using the existing holes?

[RockyAussie]

15 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

I think it's next to impossible that I could match the same needle holes if I restitch

What you believe will be true if you think that, but if it helps..... If you were working for me and could not do it then you would no longer be working for me.

Practice doing on some scrap first and you will find it is not that hard. You have an open toe foot and a good directional light. These happen out of the blue and learning how to deal with it is what you need to work out. Thankfully its not Croc or some other expensive skin because on them I remove all the threads and start again just so you cant see anywhere the thread is doubled up and out of place. You will find that the needle does not have to hit every hole perfectly to still look alright and a blunt needle can be better as well as they sort of slide there way into the hole a bit. If I have to do a extra large piece I will remove the needle and polish it blunt especially if the back is fabric as you have in this case. Last bit is to check that your thread return check spring is adjusted correctly. If it allows too much looseness on top, the needle can spear it or even end up on the wrong side as it goes in and you will get this problem happen regularly.

[MtlBiker]

1 hour ago, HaloJones said:

If it’s only a small area can you hand stitch using the existing holes?

Only problem with that suggestion is that I've never hand-stitched anything!  I'm still very much a beginner.

[MtlBiker]

1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

What you believe will be true if you think that, but if it helps..... If you were working for me and could not do it then you would no longer be working for me.

Practice doing on some scrap first and you will find it is not that hard. You have an open toe foot and a good directional light. These happen out of the blue and learning how to deal with it is what you need to work out. Thankfully its not Croc or some other expensive skin because on them I remove all the threads and start again just so you cant see anywhere the thread is doubled up and out of place. You will find that the needle does not have to hit every hole perfectly to still look alright and a blunt needle can be better as well as they sort of slide there way into the hole a bit. If I have to do a extra large piece I will remove the needle and polish it blunt especially if the back is fabric as you have in this case. Last bit is to check that your thread return check spring is adjusted correctly. If it allows too much looseness on top, the needle can spear it or even end up on the wrong side as it goes in and you will get this problem happen regularly.

I'm so much of a beginner with sewing that you'd never hire me anyway!  So you CAN'T fire me! 

Most of that top stitch looks good, and I've removed the part that is wonky.  I will try my best to restitch that area but first I need to figure out why the top thread frayed in the first place.  It wasn't consistent... the first part of the top stitch was fine, as was the last part.  Only a small section in the middle had a problem.

Thank you for your advice.

 

[TomE]

Time to buy "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" and learn a new skill.  This task is similar to repairing tack - fixing broken stitches by hand.

[Dwight]

1 hour ago, MtlBiker said:

Only problem with that suggestion is that I've never hand-stitched anything!  I'm still very much a beginner.

We were all beginners at one time . . . 

When I have a similar problem . . . (all of us do at one time or another) . . . I get out my hand sewing needles . . . pick the right one . . . pull out the bad thread . . . and go to town with my needle and thread.

The way I do it is not saddle stitching . . . but will have a similar effect.

Put a good figure eight knot in the thread . . . leaving a 2 or 3 inch tail on it.  Sneak up between the pieces . . . somewhere in the middle of the bad sewing  . . . start up or down . . . doesn't matter. 

Loop stitch it one direction until you get to the good sttches . . . double up on a couple of those stitches . . . then start back the other way . . . sewing down where you came up . . . and sewing up where you sewed down earlier . . . 

AND . . . as you loop stitch . . . DO NOT PULL IT TIGHT.  Leave an inch or so in each loop . . . hanging out of the leather on each side of the piece.  You'll fix this later . . .  trust me.

Continue the loop stitching all the way past where you started . . . so that you go into the good stitches . . . again 2 or 3 stitches . . . just to double them up and anchor them . . .  and again . . . sewing back to your start place . . . going up where you sewed down coming out . . . and going down where you sewed up . . . 

When you get back to your start place . . . you then grab that 2 or 3 inch tail of the beginning stitch . . . and with the other hand . . . begin pulling the stitches tight . . .  going the direction you first started sewing . . . continue pulling them tight  . . .  one at a time . . . until you finally have it all sewn . . . stitches tightened . . . and you have the tail in one hand and the thread in the other hand.  

Tie them into a good tight  . . . square knot . . . look it up if you don't know how to do it.  

Then comes a kinda tricky part.  Find two needles . . . longest ones you have . . . and cut those two threads hanging out so that they are about 2/3 as long as the needles.  

Thread the needles with those hanging out threads . . .  and with a pair of pliers . . .  push the back end of the needles up between the layers until they are pulled free of the thread.

Pull out your needles . . . your job is done.

Have fun . . . take it slow . . . get a pair of cheater reading glasses to help make sure you are hitting the holes right as you do not make new holes . . . use the old ones . . . get a couple of doughnuts . . . and a cup of coffee . . . reward yourself at each end of the stitching . . . and when you are done . . .  have a piece of apple pie.

May God bless,

Dwight

PS:  Apple pie rewards always help make the work good . . . whether it was or not . . . lol

 

[MtlBiker]

1 hour ago, TomE said:

Time to buy "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" and learn a new skill.  This task is similar to repairing tack - fixing broken stitches by hand.

Thanks!  I just ordered it.  (My go-to source for books is just about always Amazon, and I was shocked to see this book there for $48 cdn USED!!  I was going to say forget it!  Then I did a further search and found that Tandy Canada was selling it for only $20, brand new!  So I ordered that, plus all three volumes of Stolhman's Art of Making Leather Cases.)

[MtlBiker]

28 minutes ago, Dwight said:

We were all beginners at one time . . . 

When I have a similar problem . . . (all of us do at one time or another) . . . I get out my hand sewing needles . . . pick the right one . . . pull out the bad thread . . . and go to town with my needle and thread.

The way I do it is not saddle stitching . . . but will have a similar effect.

Put a good figure eight knot in the thread . . . leaving a 2 or 3 inch tail on it.  Sneak up between the pieces . . . somewhere in the middle of the bad sewing  . . . start up or down . . . doesn't matter. 

Loop stitch it one direction until you get to the good sttches . . . double up on a couple of those stitches . . . then start back the other way . . . sewing down where you came up . . . and sewing up where you sewed down earlier . . . 

AND . . . as you loop stitch . . . DO NOT PULL IT TIGHT.  Leave an inch or so in each loop . . . hanging out of the leather on each side of the piece.  You'll fix this later . . .  trust me.

Continue the loop stitching all the way past where you started . . . so that you go into the good stitches . . . again 2 or 3 stitches . . . just to double them up and anchor them . . .  and again . . . sewing back to your start place . . . going up where you sewed down coming out . . . and going down where you sewed up . . . 

When you get back to your start place . . . you then grab that 2 or 3 inch tail of the beginning stitch . . . and with the other hand . . . begin pulling the stitches tight . . .  going the direction you first started sewing . . . continue pulling them tight  . . .  one at a time . . . until you finally have it all sewn . . . stitches tightened . . . and you have the tail in one hand and the thread in the other hand.  

Tie them into a good tight  . . . square knot . . . look it up if you don't know how to do it.  

Then comes a kinda tricky part.  Find two needles . . . longest ones you have . . . and cut those two threads hanging out so that they are about 2/3 as long as the needles.  

Thread the needles with those hanging out threads . . .  and with a pair of pliers . . .  push the back end of the needles up between the layers until they are pulled free of the thread.

Pull out your needles . . . your job is done.

Have fun . . . take it slow . . . get a pair of cheater reading glasses to help make sure you are hitting the holes right as you do not make new holes . . . use the old ones . . . get a couple of doughnuts . . . and a cup of coffee . . . reward yourself at each end of the stitching . . . and when you are done . . .  have a piece of apple pie.

May God bless,

Dwight

PS:  Apple pie rewards always help make the work good . . . whether it was or not . . . lol

 

Dwight, what a great and super helpful message!  Thank you!  (I've also ordered Stolhman's book.)  It's members like you who make this forum so valuable.

I'll certainly give it a try the way you describe.  Probably the best solution, especially since the bad section is really very short... less than 2 inches.

[tsunkasapa]

A stitching horse/pony is a huge help. The ponies aren't very expensive, but you can make a very serviceable one out of 1x4 stock, a carriage bolt and a wing nut. Sadly, we just don't have enough hands sometimes.

[TomE]

2 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

Thanks!  I just ordered it.  (My go-to source for books is just about always Amazon, and I was shocked to see this book there for $48 cdn USED!!  I was going to say forget it!  Then I did a further search and found that Tandy Canada was selling it for only $20, brand new!  So I ordered that, plus all three volumes of Stolhman's Art of Making Leather Cases.)

I learned more from those books than from watching many Youtube instructional videos. Lots of construction tips that apply to many types of projects. Stohlman’s book on Leathercraft Tools is another worthwhile read. I think @Dwight is referring to what I learned as a single needle backstitch. JH Leather has a video on making a running loop that shows the process. 

Edited February 1, 2022 by TomE

[sbrownn]

One thing I do on a repair like this is take a few hand stitching needles and use them to line up the existing holes before I begin resewing.  It usually only takes three or four needles.  I leave the needles in place while I turn the sewing machine over by hand removing them, one by one as each needle approaches the sewing machine foot.

[RockyAussie]

10 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

but first I need to figure out why the top thread frayed in the first place

Sometimes it can be just bad thread but most often it is caused by a slight needle deflection which makes the hook miss the thread or sometimes spear the thread. When it spears the thread and only takes a part of it you then see you have here. What caused the needle to deflect can be hard to work out but often it is something uneven in the edge. You stitched it inside out first then stitched over the top so there is a good chance that there is some little fold inside that could cause it. The sewing machine may not be suitable for the job. The wide spaced dog foot that is being lifted on one side only on this edge means it probably is not that secure when the needle goes in. If your check spring is not coming into play when it needs to then also you can get this problem. I have to ask why you have not used the Techsew 2750 to do this instead? The dog foot is right there under the foot and moves on through with the job.

[Gulrok]

12 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

Sometimes it can be just bad thread but most often it is caused by a slight needle deflection which makes the hook miss the thread or sometimes spear the thread. When it spears the thread and only takes a part of it you then see you have here. What caused the needle to deflect can be hard to work out but often it is something uneven in the edge. You stitched it inside out first then stitched over the top so there is a good chance that there is some little fold inside that could cause it. The sewing machine may not be suitable for the job. The wide spaced dog foot that is being lifted on one side only on this edge means it probably is not that secure when the needle goes in. If your check spring is not coming into play when it needs to then also you can get this problem. I have to ask why you have not used the Techsew 2750 to do this instead? The dog foot is right there under the foot and moves on through with the job.

I have personally found that initially a lot of my thread issues were due to a low quality thread, specifically junk I found on Amazon. The number one fix in my experience - was to replace the 'bad' thread with quality thread. In general things were a lot more consistent and easier to diagnose when things went wrong. 

[Klara]

My vote is for handstitching this wallet as Dwight describes, that method has the advantage of not needing a stitching pony.

Secondly I'd get one of those (easy to build if you have a few tools and scraps of wood lying around  - if you don't, buying one is probably cheaper and faster). And then practice with Stohlman's book in front of you on some leather scraps. But that's another topic...

 

 

[MtlBiker]

11 hours ago, Gulrok said:

I have personally found that initially a lot of my thread issues were due to a low quality thread, specifically junk I found on Amazon. The number one fix in my experience - was to replace the 'bad' thread with quality thread. In general things were a lot more consistent and easier to diagnose when things went wrong. 

It isn't a thread quality issue in this case... I'm using top quality A&E Sunstop poly thread.  But I know what you mean as early on in my sewing I'd started with bargain thread.

[MtlBiker]

1 hour ago, Klara said:

My vote is for handstitching this wallet as Dwight describes, that method has the advantage of not needing a stitching pony.

Secondly I'd get one of those (easy to build if you have a few tools and scraps of wood lying around  - if you don't, buying one is probably cheaper and faster). And then practice with Stohlman's book in front of you on some leather scraps. But that's another topic...

 

 

I'm going to try handstitching to fix/salvage this wallet.  I've ordered a bunch of stuff, including Stohlman's books AND a stitching pony.  I should have it all by the weekend and the will do some reading and practicing before I start on this wallet.  I also received some Japanese skiving knives yesterday and should (with luck) have my new bell skiver on Monday. I'm going to have my hands full with learning and practicing.  Too bad my day job is taking up so much of my time. 

Cheers!
 

[Klara]

My point is that Stohlman's method needs a lot of practice, so if you want to finish fairly quickly the wallet you have started, I would recommend one-handed stitching. Also, Stohlman uses an awl, and you already have the holes.

For a first "proper" handsewing project I recommend something where you won't see the backside of your stitching. I made padded dog collars, they are perfect (also I needed them). Lined bracelets would work the same. Or a belt if you are really ambitious.