Learning how to hand stitch

[MtlBiker]

I'm trying to learn how to hand stitch, with the help of Al Strohlman's hand stitching book and I've run into my first question...

My leather is fairly thick, about 6oz and is two layers.  When I use my stitching chisel to punch the holes, the chisel doesn't go all the way through.  Strohlman says to punch from the front side and to have the front side to your left in the stitching pony.  And then to use the stitching awl from the right side.  Well, since my chisel didn't go all the way through, I can't see on the right (back) side where to use the awl.  Does it make any difference if I use the awl from the left (front) side to first push the hole through?

Dumb beginner question?

 

[MtlBiker]

Another problem I'm having...

I did push the stitching awl through from the left to the right in order to pierce the leather.  The problem now is that on almost every stitch when I push the needle in from the right in the same hole that the left needle just came through, I end up piercing the thread also, which makes it almost impossible to then finish pulling the left thread through to tighten it all up.  I'm trying to pull the left thread from the left as I push the needle in from the right, but I guess the hole is just too tight to let the right needle pass along the side of the left thread through the same hole.  (I hope I'm explaining this clearly.)

I've just ordered some new stitching chisels as I suspect what I'm using is part of the problem.  The ones I've got now are the Crafttool Pro from Tandy Leather, #'s 88056-09, -04 and -02.  I just ordered their #88045-06, and -02, and also 88046-06 and -02. 

I haven't received my John James harness needle order yet (any day now) so I'm using a Tandy harness needle size 000-Large (only one they had in stock when I ordered) and an unknown weight Tejas waxed thread also from Tandy.  (I've ordered some .08 Ritza Tiger thread.)

I guess the first issue would be to start with the right tools... right stitching chisels and known thread weight with appropriate needles.  But a beginner has got to start somewhere I guess.

 

[Northmount]

Assuming you stay with the orientation above, draw a guide line on the right side (in line with your left stitching line), push the awl through from the left side you have punched, take it slow and see where the point of the awl is just starting to poke through, if not on your guide line, pull back a fraction and adjust your angle to come through right on your line.  You don't have to punch so deep that it deforms the leather.  Your awl will take you through all the way.  Awl needs to be really sharp.  You might need a flat jaw pliers to assist pulling the needles through.  (No grips in the pliers jaw so you don't wreck the needles.)

Either Dwight or Ferg have posted instructions for the way they do stitching in thick leather.  Do a search for their posts. 

[tsunkasapa]

I don't use chisels at all, just the awl. And since I'm so right handed that I can't even scratch my nose with my left, I put the project in the horse with the front to my right. Stabbing straight through takes some practice, but I have never seen the need to use chisels and the use the awl, even on double layers of 10oz. Also, I was taught to insert both needles before pulling any thread through, to eliminate piercing the thread. YMMV

[Joaquin]

Watch Don Gonzales' hand stitching video on youtube and you'll be able to stitch through any thickness without pricking irons. Helped me immensely. Big bend saddlery has a couple videos about it too that're helpful. 

 

[Spyros]

Yeah I don't really use thick saddlery leather so my chisels have no problems going through my bags or anything else I make.  But generally keep in mind, stitching chisels are much like awls and like most other tools, in that you kinda get what you paid for.  My KS Blades which are 10 tooth and not 5, which makes it even harder, have no problems going through 2 X 8 oz and probably more.  And they pull out fairly easily because it's high quality and well sharpened steel.  However the price of quality chisels like KS and Sinabroks is also very different.

I think mate if you're mostly doing thick leather, like sheaths and stuff, you'll be better served long term just ditching the chisels entirely and mastering the awl like on the video above.   And maybe keep your tandy chisels for when you do "chap leather" like Don Gonzales calls it, ie softer/thinner stuff.  That's really what they were designed for, although like I said some of the better ones you can push them to their limits.

[Tequila]

Here’s a couple of things to keep in mind:

1. Keep your chisels sharp.  It’s good practice to strop them before you use them  

2. Use smaller chisels, in that I mean don’t go at it with a 4 or 5 prong use a 2 prong instead

3. When doing a saddle stitch be consistent, as a general rule my first needle goes in from the front, then once the needle and thread are through the hole pull back on that thread while doing that push the back needle through the hole, you won’t catch the first thread doing it that way.  Repeat on the next stitch front side first then back side. 

4. Make sure that your thread is waxed.  If you see it’s starting to get dry or dragging through the hole simply re-wax it.

5. On really really thick pieces it may come down to 2 choices either very carefully chisel each piece separately or use a very small drill bit and drill through the leather (only had this happen to me once).

Hope this helps a little and with practice it’ll get easier. 

[fredk]

On 2/13/2022 at 3:38 PM, MtlBiker said:

Another problem I'm having...

I did push the stitching awl through from the left to the right in order to pierce the leather.  The problem now is that on almost every stitch when I push the needle in from the right in the same hole that the left needle just came through, I end up piercing the thread also, which makes it almost impossible to then finish pulling the left thread through to tighten it all up. 

Until you get your sewing rhythm sorted try just putting the right needle mostly thru the hole but whilst its there push the left needle thru, so both metal needles are together in the hole, then pull the left needle all the way thru with the right hand and the right needle all the way thru with the left hand - at the same time

[MtlBiker]

1 minute ago, fredk said:

Until you get your sewing rhythm sorted try just putting the right needle mostly thru the hole but whilst its there push the left needle thru, so both metal needles are together in the hole, then pull the left needle all the way thru with the right hand and the right needle all the way thru with the left hand - at the same time

Thanks Fred... I think I've got that sorted now.  It's over 2 months since I posted that.    Lots of hand stitching has been done since then.  What I've learned to do is to pull the thread from the opposite side as I'm inserting a needle.  Meaning if I start by putting the left needle through, when I insert my right needle in the hole, I pull the thread from that left needle with my left hand, so that as the right needle goes through the thread already in the hole is moving with it, so it doesn't get caught.

I haven't tried having both left and right needles in the hole at the same time, as I don't want to unnecessarily enlarge the stitching hole.  Maybe that's a worry for nothing.  I'll give it a try.